REPUBLIC DE CHILE

PART 1, General Information
PART 2, BLOG Pictures and Gallery PART 3, VIDEOS CHILE

PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION

Capital city: Santiago

Population: 18 million

Currency: Peso

Km travelled: 5600

Days in Chile: 87

Languages: Spanish

GENERAL

Republic of Chile – Overview

Political History:

Official name: Republic of Chile.
In 1973, a coup overthrew President Salvador Allende, leading to a military dictatorship under General Augusto Pinochet.
This regime lasted until 1990, resulting in over 3,000 deaths or disappearances.
Democracy returned following a 1988 referendum; a center-left coalition then governed through four presidencies until 2010.

Modern Chile:

Considered one of South America’s most stable and prosperous nations.
High income and living standards characterize the population.

Geography:

Shape: Long and narrow (~4,350 km north to south, ~180 km average width).
Bordered by: Andes Mountains (East), Pacific Ocean (West).
Terrain: Largely mountainous; dominated by the Andes.
Regions:
- North: Atacama Desert – extremely arid, rich in copper and lithium.
- Center: Densely populated, fertile, cultural and political hub.
- South: Forested with pastures, volcanoes, lakes, fjords, and islands.

Climate & Natural Events:

Climate varies greatly from north to south – desert in the north to subantarctic in the south.
Prone to natural disasters: earthquakes, tsunamis, volcanic eruptions, winter storms, droughts, and flash floods.

TOURIST HIGHLIGHTS

Chile is the longest and narrowest country in the world, stretching from the towering Andes mountains to untouched southern wilderness, from the driest desert in the north to fjords, glaciers, and modern cities in the central regions. Recently, Chile launched a massive scenic tourism initiative—the Route of Parks, which spans 2,500 kilometers—aimed at promoting sustainable development through conservation. Often referred to as the Land of Extremes, Chile offers dramatic contrasts and breathtaking landscapes. For us, it was truly amazing to witness such vast wilderness that remains so pristine and untouched.

CHILE PATAGONIA & TIERRA DEL FUEGO

This would be one of Chile’s most extreme and awe-inspiring landscapes, where steep slopes host guanacos and wild horses running free, and solitary condors soar high above the Darwin Mountain Range. This remote region was named Tierra del Fuego—“Land of Fire”—by Ferdinand Magellan, inspired by the bonfires lit by the indigenous Selk’nam people.

The charming town of Porvenir and explore the nearby King Penguin Colony, one of the few places outside Antarctica where these majestic birds can be seen in the wild. Set sail on a boat tour to Puerto Williams—the southernmost town in the world—and on to Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn), navigating through the dramatic fjords and ice-choked waters of Tierra del Fuego.

arriving in Punta Arenas, the main gateway to Antarctica, and drive as far south as the road will take you. Camp overlooking the windswept Magellan Strait, then board a boat to Puerto Williams to complete your adventure to the bush camp overlooking Magellan Strait and book a boat to Puerto Williams the world most southern town.

PUERTO NATALES

Puerto Natales lies approximately 250 km north of Punta Arenas, serving as the final port of call for ferries traveling south from Puerto Montt and other stops along the way. This small but vital town is also the primary gateway to the stunning Torres del Paine National Park. From the scenic Dorotea Hill, we enjoyed sweeping views of Puerto Natales—and with a bit of luck, you may even spot a majestic condor soaring overhead. We loved the rugged and breathtaking beauty of this unforgettable Patagonian landscape.

TORRES DEL PAINE

Torres del Paine National Park is a rugged and breathtaking landscape—a true paradise spanning 230,000 hectares. With its imposing granite massifs, pristine forests, and striking turquoise lakes, it’s a dream destination for nature lovers and overlanders alike. From perfect sunsets reflected on serene lagoons to thrilling hikes along the edges of glaciers, the park offers sweeping views and unforgettable experiences.

We camped at Grey Lake, an awe-inspiring spot dotted with icebergs and crowned by a glacier at its far end. It’s a place where the raw power of nature is on full display.

The closest major town, Puerto Natales, lies 154 km south of the park and serves as the main hub for supplies and last-minute shopping.My suggestion Avoid visiting in the winter months. Even in summer, come prepared for unpredictable weather—cold temperatures and strong winds are common year-round.

THE CHILEAN ANDES

To break it down geographically:

Northern Chile (around 27°S): This region is dominated by vast, arid highlands with altitudes typically ranging between 5,000 and 6,000 meters. The mountains are wide and dry, and many areas here are sparsely populated due to the harsh environment. Despite the aridity, these heights are still capped with snow, which is essential for feeding the rivers that flow southward into central Chile. This northern area is also known for its extreme conditions and is home to the world’s driest desert, the Atacama Desert.
Central Chile (around Santiago): As the Andes approach the capital, Santiago, the mountains become more accessible, with snow-capped peaks providing a beautiful backdrop to the city. The slopes and valleys in this area are steeper, but the mountains remain high enough to sustain winter sports, making the region a popular destination for skiing and snowboarding in the colder months.
Southern Chile: As you move further south, the Andes lose some of their altitude and give way to a more varied landscape, including active volcanoes. This area is home to some of the most iconic volcanoes in Chile, such as Copahue, Llama, Osorno, and the highest of them all, Mount Tronador. Some of these volcanoes are still active, and their eruptions have significantly influenced the local landscape over time.
Far Southern Chile: In the southernmost part of the country, the Andes begin to decrease in elevation, though they still remain an impressive feature of the terrain. The further south you go, the less imposing the mountains become, transitioning into the Patagonia region, which is known for its fjords, glaciers, and dramatic coastlines.

The Chilean Andes, particularly their northern and central parts, also serve as an important resource for the country, with the snowmelt feeding crucial river systems and providing water to much of Chile’s agricultural regions. This mountain range represents a stark contrast of ecosystems and climates, from dry deserts to lush, temperate rainforests. Additionally, the region’s geography plays a key role in the distinct cultural divisions between the north and south of Chile, with the mountains acting as a natural divide in both geography and history.

CARRETERA AUSTRAL

Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins: The journey along the Carretera Austral took us deep into the heart of Patagonia, through dense forests, snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and glaciers. The sense of isolation and beauty here is truly unique, and it’s no surprise that overlanders and cyclists flock to this route to experience, over 1,000 kilometres of natural beauty.
Tortel & Tortel Cove: Tortel is a picturesque village with wooden walkways built along steep slopes, offering an incredible connection with the surrounding nature. The nearby Tortel Cove adds to its charm, giving visitors a glimpse into a more remote, unspoiled part of Patagonia.
Baker River and Lake General Carrera: The Baker River is known for its incredible turquoise waters, and camping along its banks is a magical experience. Lake General Carrera is one of the largest lakes in South America, with stunning blue waters framed by mountainous landscapes. These areas offer perfect settings for bush camping and exploring by boat.
Villa Santa Lucia: The village of Villa Santa Lucia, which suffered a tragic landslide in 2017, remains a testament to the area’s raw natural power. Despite the disaster, the community has slowly recovered, and it stands as a gateway to stunning regions like Futaleufu and the Argentine border.
Futaleufu River: Known globally for its world-class whitewater rafting, Futaleufu is an adventure destination in its own right. The crystal-clear waters and surrounding landscapes are as breathtaking as the rafting itself.

This entire stretch of the Carretera Austral offers a mix of natural wonders, outdoor adventure, and cultural experiences. It’s a perfect route for those who are keen on exploring remote areas, immersing themselves in nature, and discovering hidden gems like Tortel and Futaleufu along the way. If you’re planning a trip, it truly offers a slice of heaven at the southernmost tip of the world!

PUCON & VILLARICA

Have stunning landscapes, many restaurants, markets and craft fairs. Relax in some of the region’s delightful natural hot tubs. Visit great National Parks and the ancient Araucaria forests, look for unique species such as the impossibly cute Colocolo opossum and the endearing pudu (the world’s smallest deer). The destination´s main attractions are the Villarrica, Caburgua, Colico, Huillipilun and Calafquen lakes, and the Mamuil Mamal Customs border that connects you to Argentina. The area has a great tourist infrastructure, in Pucon, Lican Ray and the Palguin and San Luis Springs. There is also marvellous flora and fauna in the Villarrica and Huerquehue National Parks.

SANTIAGO

Santiago, Chile, is a dynamic, cosmopolitan city brimming with cultural richness and diverse experiences. Whether you’re strolling through its vibrant neighborhoods, browsing lively handicraft markets, or sampling its eclectic culinary scene.

A must-do is a visit to Cerro San Cristóbal, one of Santiago’s most iconic landmarks, this lush hill offers stunning panoramic views of the city, with the majestic Andes mountains providing a breathtaking backdrop. We decided on the hop-on, hop-off buses make it easy to navigate through Santiago’s most popular attractions, from the historic Plaza de Armas to the bohemian charm of Bellavista.

Pueblito Los Dominicos, renowned for its artisan stalls, offers a wide array of handmade goods, from intricately woven textiles to unique jewelry. Meanwhile, seafood lovers will find Mercado Central a true gem, where fresh Chilean fish dishes are served in a lively, bustling atmosphere.

PAN DE AZACAR NATIONAL PARK

Located on the coast of Northern Chile, just north of Chañaral. This park is a unique and stunning destination where the harsh, dry environment of the Atacama Desert meets the Pacific Ocean, creating a fascinating and diverse ecosystem. The landscape is characterized by rugged headlands, sandy beaches, desert ravines, and dramatic cliffs. This is a less-visited part of Chile.

In addition to the incredible views, the area is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, including several species of cacti that thrive in the arid conditions. We also spotted local wildlife such as foxes, birds, and vicuñas. The coastal environment is an important habitat for migratory seabirds, including the Humboldt Penguin, which adds to the area’s ecological importance.

The nearby fishing village adds a charming human element to the landscape, where you can enjoy local culture and fresh seafood while exploring the rugged coastline. Pan de Azúcar National Park truly embodies the beauty and contrasts of Chile’s northern regions, offering an unforgettable experience for overlanders.

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA;A Gateway to the Atacama Desert

Nestled in the heart of the Atacama Desert, San Pedro de Atacama is one of Chile’s most iconic destinations, attracting travelers and overlanders from around the globe. The town, though small and often bustling with tourists, serves as the perfect stepping stone to some of the most stunning landscapes on Earth. Known for its Western-style charm, the town’s single-story adobe buildings and unpaved roads make it feel as if you’ve stepped into a dusty, forgotten frontier town.

While San Pedro itself offers a cozy base, its true allure lies in the vast wilderness surrounding it. Most of the area’s famous attractions are part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve. These sites include the Pukara de Quitor, an ancient fortress perched on a hilltop; Aldea de Tular, a unique archaeological village; and Valle de la Luna, a surreal landscape resembling the surface of the moon.

Among the region’s highlights are the high-altitude Lagunas Altiplanicas, with their shimmering waters against a backdrop of rugged mountains, and Laguna Cejar, where you can float in the saline waters surrounded by the desert. Rainbow Valley, with its striking mineral-rich hues, is another must-see, offering one of the most vibrant and colorful landscapes in the area. The Salar de Tara is equally breathtaking, with its salt flats, towering rock formations, and wide-open spaces that stretch as far as the eye can see.

But perhaps one of the most unforgettable experiences is visiting the Geysers del Tatio, located about 100 kilometers north of San Pedro at an altitude of 4,200 meters. The geothermal field, with its plumes of steam rising from the ground, creates a surreal scene at dawn. However, it’s not just the awe-inspiring sight that stays with you—staying overnight near the geysers means enduring extreme temperatures that drop to a chilling minus 15 degrees Celsius, a sharp contrast to the desert’s daytime heat.

San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings , making it a destination like no other. From the otherworldly landscapes to the unique cultural heritage, it’s a place where nature and history intertwine, leaving an indelible mark on all who visit.

IQUIQUE

Iquique, located in northern Chile, is a vibrant coastal city known for its bustling duty-free zone, Zofri (Zona Franca), and its rapidly developing beachfront lined with high-rise resorts. Though slightly more expensive and facing higher levels of pollution compared to neighboring cities like Arica,

One of the city’s standout attractions is Baquedano Street (Paseo Baquedano), a charming, cobblestone thoroughfare that evokes the spirit of the Old West. As you stroll along the street, you’ll find a lively blend of tourist spots, artisan markets, and colorful local shops. The surrounding architecture is a delightful mix of 19th-century buildings, with Georgian and Victorian influences, thoughtfully adapted to suit the desert coastal climate. These historic structures offer a fascinating glimpse into Iquique’s past, with their ornate facades standing in stark contrast to the modern skyline.

ARICA

It is Chile’s northernmost city, being located only 18 km south of the border with Peru. Arica has a mild, temperate climate with some of the lowest annual rainfall rates anywhere in the world. It’s quiet, relaxed and safe, with several nice beaches and sun virtually every day of the year. Arica is also the gateway to Bolivia and Peru.

CLIMATE

Chile’s weather is diverse: from the driest part of the world in the north to Mediterranean in the centre, Oceanic-Alpine and tundra in the south and east.

ARICA

Arica seldom sees extreme temperatures throughout the course of the year. Arica is also known as the driest inhabited place on Earth based on annual rainfall. Average temp is 28 degrees during the day in winter up to 35 degrees in summer. Night-time temp varies between 14 and 19 degrees during the year.

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

The climate is perfect throughout the year. In winter (June, July and August) the average daytime temperature is 22°C and by night 4°C, descending to -2°C in extreme cases; days are very pleasant, inviting you to lay in the sun’s corridors. During summer (January, February and March) the temperature fluctuates between 27°C and a minimum of 16°C at night. Between January and March occasional showers.

ANTOFAGASTA

Summer Temperatures range from 17 at night to 24 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures range from 10 at night and around 17 degrees during the day. Antofagasta receives very little rain year-round. Biggest issue at the whole coast is the development of coastal fogs (garúa or camanchaca).

SANTIAGO

In Santiago, the summers are long, warm, arid, and clear and the winters are cold and partly cloudy. Summer temperatures are between 14 degrees at night and 31 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are between 4 degrees at night and 15 degrees during the day

PUERTO MONTT

The climate in Puerto Montt is warm and temperate. The rainfall in Puerto Montt is significant even in the driest month.

In summer temp are 10 at night and 15 during the day. During winter temp are between 5 degrees at night and 10 degrees during the day.

Driest months are January and February but still around 100mm per month.

PUNTA ARENAS The summers are cool, extremely windy, and mostly cloudy and the winters are very cold, dry, windy, and partly cloudy.

Winters are from minus 5 to 5 degrees, Summers are from 7 degrees to 14 degrees.

Rain falls throughout the year in Punta Arenas. March is the wettest month.

VILLA O HIGGINS

Significant rainfall, even in the driest months. Average temperature is 8.1 degrees. Average annual rainfall is 611mm per annum. Summer temperatures are between 8 at night and 18 during the day. Winter temperature are between 0 degrees at night and 4 degrees during the day.

PART 2, BLOG PICTURES AND GALLERY

Far Southern Chile

We’ve reached the southernmost tip of Chile, a land where the vast wilderness of Patagonia meets the edge of the world. While the map may label this region as Tierra del Fuego, the locals call it the province of Magallanes, with Punta Arenas serving as its bustling capital. This is a place where the rugged beauty of nature reigns supreme and where every turn offers a new, breathtaking vista.

Our first stop takes us to Lake Blanco, a serene and pristine body of water nestled amidst snow-capped mountains. The lake’s crystal-clear surface reflects the surrounding peaks, creating a mirror image of the Patagonian landscape. It’s the perfect spot to pause, take in the tranquility, and marvel at the untouched beauty of this remote corner of the world.

Next on our journey is Parque Pingüino Rey, a rare gem in the region and home to the majestic King Penguin. As one of the few places where these remarkable birds thrive, the park offers an unforgettable opportunity to witness these penguins in their natural habitat. Their striking black and white plumage contrasts beautifully against the rugged, windswept coastline, making this a truly magical experience.

From the wild waters of Lake Blanco to the charming penguins of the park, the journey through Magallanes has already proven to be nothing short of extraordinary.

We have arrived in the most southern part of Chile and while the Map refers to it as Tierra Del Fuego the locals tell me it is the province of Magallanes and the capital city is Punta Arenas. Our first stop Lake Blanco followed by the Parque Penguino Rey. According to the ranger this is the only place in South America where you can see King Penguins.The other 2 areas are Antarctica and South Georgia. (Falkland Islands)

From Porvenir, we boarded a ferry to Punta Arenas, crossing the Strait of Magellan. As we’ve mentioned before, we have deep respect for cyclists who embark on round-the-world trips. But here, in Patagonia, we’ve gained even more admiration for them. It’s incredible how they brave the fierce winds and freezing nights in nothing more than a small tent. That said, we also have great respect for those traveling in land cruisers, with pop-tops or rooftop tents.

Maybe it’s a sign that we’re getting older, but we’ve come to truly appreciate the comforts of our truck. We can park wherever we like, without the worry of finding windbreaks, toilets, or dealing with the high cost of campgrounds. The convenience is undeniable, and it’s a luxury we’ve learned to cherish in this beautiful, rugged landscape.

After we disembarked from the ferry, we did some shopping before heading south to the end of the road on Mainland America. Along the way, we visited Fuerte Bulnes, Puerto Julian, and the Centro Geográfico de Chile Monument, which marks the geographical center of Chile. From this point, the distance to Peru is the same as the distance to the southernmost part of Chile in Antarctica.

That evening, the weather took a dramatic turn, and a gale-force wind and rain made the return trip to the main road quite a challenge. The rain didn’t let up until we finally reached Puerto Natales, a town that, to our disappointment, didn’t live up to expectations. So, we decided to continue our journey in search of a better campsite. We found a beautiful spot on the shore of Lago Sarmiento de Gamboa, situated about halfway to Torres del Paine National Park.

We arrived at around 6 PM. While the views weren’t ideal, we could just make out the iconic Torres del Paine in the distance. That night, the wind howled relentlessly, but the following morning greeted us with a bizarre mix of sunshine, sleet, snow, and rain. By mid-morning, the weather cleared up, and we were treated to some stunning views as we explored the park.

We spent three days in Torres del Paine National Park, which offered an incredible variety of landscapes: the expansive Pampas, the dense Magellanic Forest, serene lakes, and lagoons dotted with icebergs, all framed by impressive glaciers. The park is also rich in wildlife, though we were still on the lookout for the elusive Puma. We were fortunate enough to spot two Condors soaring over Lake Grey.

While the boat cruise around the lake would have cost us 300 USD for two people, we decided to skip it and explore on foot instead. Our hike around the lake rewarded us with close-up views of the icebergs and the distant glacier, and to our delight, we even spotted some Flamingos.

The cost of entering Torres del Paine National Park as a foreigner is quite steep, with a fee of 21,000 pesos compared to just 6,000 pesos for locals—roughly 45 AUD per person. While the price is high, the park’s stunning highlights make it worth the visit. Among the most breathtaking sights were the iconic Cuernos and Torres Massifs, Laguna Azul, Laguna Amarga, and the serene Lake Grey.

On our final night, we camped by Lake Sarmiento, where we were accompanied by a curious herd of guanacos, adding an unforgettable touch to our stay. From there, we retraced our steps back to the tiny border town of Cerro Castillo, where we crossed back into Argentina, heading for our next destination—El Calafate and the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier.

CARRETERA AUSTRAL to CHAITEN

After clearing customs on the Chilean side, we made a quick 10-minute drive to the supermercado to stock up on essentials for the next two weeks. Leaving Chile Chico, we followed the lake’s edge to the junction with the Carretera Austral, embarking on a 350-kilometer stretch of road filled with sharp curves, steep inclines and declines, blind corners, narrow tracks, and deep ravines. This road is undoubtedly one of the region’s most iconic highlights. With its stunning, postcard-perfect scenery, every turn offered breathtaking views that made the challenging drive well worth it.

The weather took a turn for the worse, with low clouds, cold temperatures, sleet, and wet snow reducing visibility to near zero. After spending the day in Tortel, the skies finally began to clear, giving me the perfect opportunity to explore the village. Known as the “town of bridges,” Tortel lives up to its name with its network of over 7.5 kilometers of stairs, platforms, and wooden walkways connecting the homes and businesses. The intricate web of bridges and paths creates a unique, almost otherworldly atmosphere, making it no surprise that this charming village has earned its nickname.

Due to poor weather we decided against the boat trip on the Baker river. (largest by volume in Chile) In all the town is very touristy, commercial and very expensive in an already expensive country. After Puerto Yungay we decided to turn back as the weather forecast for the following week was poor and a road closure due to landslide was another reason. With the rain pelting down again we back tracked to Cochrane in a mix of sleet and wet snow. By now Clary was thinking of home, palm trees, a nice beach, blue water, warm days and nights and sunshine.

During our second visit to Cochrane, we decided to follow up on an intriguing tip we’d seen on Facebook about a unique local supermarket. And sure enough, it lived up to the hype. At this particular store, you could buy everything from milk and honey to a gun and ammunition — all at the same counter! That evening, we camped out by the Baker River, just outside of town. The river was flowing fast and strong, adding to the raw beauty of the landscape. It was a perfect spot to unwind and enjoy the quiet of nature after a quirky day of shopping.

General Carrera Lake is a true gem. Its stunning turquoise waters remain vibrant, even when the winds whip across the surface, creating a dynamic, ever-changing scene. As the largest lake in Chile, it stretches across the border into Argentina, offering breathtaking views on both sides.

We took a short boat trip from Rio Tranquilo to the Marble Chapel Nature Reserve, where we explored a labyrinth of caves. The place is like something out of a dream, but be sure to time your visit when the winds are calm to fully appreciate the beauty.

We had initially planned to visit the San Rafael Lagoon National Park, but a recent flood had closed the new road, so we adjusted our route. Our journey took us further north, where we camped along the river – some of the best spots we found were nestled in the wilderness, offering both serenity and incredible views.

In Coyhaique, we spent a couple of days getting our leaking diesel tank repaired. It took a bit of patience as the parts had to be shipped from Santiago, but it gave us a chance to connect with the locals, who were kind and welcoming. Even in the midst of a mechanical hiccup, it was great to experience the warmth of the community.

Leaving Coyhaique, the weather cleared, revealing lush forests and breathtaking views all the way to Puyuhuapi. We stumbled upon an incredible camping spot about 18 km before Puyuhuapi, perched above a serene fjord. While we had planned to visit the Termas del Ventisquero hot springs, we decided to skip them after hearing from other travelers that the $40 per person fee for foreigners was steep. These hot pools, located just a few kilometers south of Puyuhuapi along the Carretera Austral, weren’t as enticing as they seemed at first.

However, Queulat National Park more than made up for it. This vast park covers 600 square miles and is a wonderland of glaciers and dense, lush forests. Some of the glaciers stretch over 10 km long, but the true highlight is the park’s crown jewel: the hanging glacier. The area’s dense greenery is thanks to the more than 4000 mm of rain that falls annually. As the Carretera Austral winds through the park, be prepared for some seriously tight hairpin turns, especially once you pass the Puerto Cisnes turnoff. Whether you’re driving a large vehicle or cycling, the roads demand attention.

Just outside Puyuhuapi, you’ll find Termas de Puyuhuapi Hotel & Spa, a high-end resort designed for fly-in tourists. However, be ready to pay a hefty $120 for a day visit, unless you’re staying at the resort. The town of Puyuhuapi itself had a distinctly European feel, with its wooden buildings and charming atmosphere. In fact, the entire area seemed like a blend of Norway’s fjords and the Swiss Alps, with its dramatic landscapes and alpine vibes.

Via La Junta, we arrived in the village of Santa Lucia. In December 2017, the town was devastated by a massive landslide triggered by 24 hours of relentless rainfall. The surrounding mountains unleashed an enormous flow of mud, burying the remote village completely. At least 25 lives were tragically lost, as the landslide swept through, wiping the town off the map. The surviving residents were airlifted to a nearby village for safety.

By the time we drove through the area, four months had passed, but the remnants of the disaster were still shockingly visible. The new road that had been built in place of the destroyed one stood as a symbol of the efforts to restore access, but the devastation was evident. The once-thriving village was now a ghost of its former self, its loss still fresh in the memories of those who witnessed it.

We pushed on to El Amarillo where we arrived early afternoon for a long soak in the Hot Pools. Our plan was to visit nearby Pumalin Parc however the 45-degree pools made us stay longer in El Amarillo, because we were allowed to camp in the carpark opposite the hot pools. Our last stop in the southern part of Chile was Futaleufu a very scenic drive even while the weather was poor the first 25 km after we turned off the main road at Santa Lucia.

Futaleufu is worldwide known by the rafting fraternity. For us it was a scenic drive and a way to get back to Argentina.

This was for us the end of the Carretera Austral. It was a mix off untamed beauty, towering glaciers, sweeping landscapes and dramatic fjords. It was a journey through spectacular scenery, and turquoise glacier lakes, not to mention the enormous South American Icefields surrounding the Carretera Austral. We have also possibly driven in some of the freshest air in the world. Due to poor weather we missed the San Rafael Glacier and the Capilla de Marbols Marble Caves in Rio Tranquilo. As for the road: Carretera Austral was an easy and comfortable drive, with most services available enroute. Besides stretches of pot holes (in the clay capped roads) it was easy going and possible to drive in any type of car. Ensure good tyres and let your pressure down to ensure a smooth ride. (It was April when we travelled the road)

The Carreterra Austral, (Route 7) In a nutshell it is not a challenging road anymore (this applies to vehicles, not bicycles or motorbikes) but it is a very scenic road not to be missed. We covered the Carretera Austral from Yungai to Chaiten. At a guess around 1000km of the total length of 1250km. The road provides stunning views subject to the weather. The road offers, thick forest, deep valleys, icy blue rivers, glaciers, and fjords. Yes, the area is remote, but it has plenty of traffic and nothing like a remote track in Australia where the next car is a week or more away and where you a need long range HF radio in the event of trouble.

Camping, like everywhere else in Brazil-Argentina and Chile campings are overpriced, mostly neglected and have little or nothing to offer. The Carretera Austral is no different, nothing beats a nice bush camp on the river or a nice view. There are thousands of great spots along this track to be found or check on I overlander.

Road Conditions, Southern Part in April 2018 (based on driving a vehicle)

Chile Chico to Cochrane is unpaved but of good quality
Cochrane to Villa O Higgins is unpaved but of good quality.
Cochrane to Rio Tranquilio is unpaved but of good quality.
Rio Tranquilio to Villa Cerra Castillo poor quality but roadworks should improve this part.
Villa Cerra Castillo to Coyhaique brand new bitumen.
Coyhaique to Puyuhuapi all brand new bitumen except the pass 20km before Puyuhuapi.
Puyuhuapi to Santa Lucia 90 % good bitumen 10% roadworks and some delays.
Santa Lucia*1 to Chaiten perfect bitumen delays due to roadworks from Santa Lucia for 10km.

*1 signs still state Santa Lucia open 8-9AM 12.00 -1.30PM and 6 to 8PM but it looks those hours are now extended as we got through before 11AM.

PUCON AREA

Our fifth visit to Chile got off to a rocky start with a border dispute. The police refused to allow us entry because we were driving a right-hand drive vehicle. “What?!” we thought. After a tense 30-minute discussion, where we showed our previous entry stamps and the Temporary Importation Permit (TIP) confirming that we’d been traveling through Chile for the past five weeks, the officer seemed to reconsider. With the help of some friendly immigration and customs officials, we were eventually allowed to proceed.

Despite this resolution, we’re still unclear about the official stance on driving a right-hand drive vehicle in Chile. (2018) The police officer was absolutely certain we weren’t allowed to, but it seems there’s some ambiguity.

We had been looking forward to unwinding in the warm waters of a hot pool near Pucón, but unfortunately, we picked the wrong one—Los Pozones. While it was the most affordable option, it came with a series of surprises that turned out to be more of a challenge than a relaxing experience.

First, our truck couldn’t make it down to the car park, so we were faced with a 1.5 km walk downhill just to reach it. Once we finally arrived, there were another 450 steep steps to climb before reaching the pools. While the location itself was beautiful, the idea of soaking in hot pools is meant to be about relaxation, not a mini hike.

After enjoying the pools, we faced the dreaded 450 steps back up, followed by the long 1.5 km walk back to the car park. Just when we thought it couldn’t get worse, we were told we couldn’t stay overnight in the car park and had to drive 2 km to a nearby campground. Paying $25 a night for a gravel spot didn’t feel right, especially when bush camping is free. It was a bit of a letdown, to say the least.

Luckily, we managed to find a lovely bush camp near San Pedro, just before Pucón. Despite the frustrations of the day, the stunning views of the snow-capped mountains and the majestic Villarrica Volcano reminded us of why we love this region. However, the increasing tourism around Pucón has made it more expensive and crowded than we remembered.

While not every part of our experience went smoothly, the beauty of the area and the peaceful retreat we found near San Pedro made up for the setbacks.

The Villarrica Volcano, standing at 2,847 meters, is the crown jewel of the region and arguably the most infamous due to being one of the most active volcanoes in South America. We were fortunate to be able to drive right up to the base, passing through old lava flows along the way. The surrounding area is dotted with numerous other impressive peaks, including Lanín (3,776 meters), Quinquilil (2,000 meters), Quetrupillán (2,360 meters), and the towering Villarrica itself, as well as high-altitude summits like Las Peinetas, Purue, Los Nevados, El Cerdudo, and Milemile.

We were lucky with the weather, and after our volcano adventures, we spent another relaxing day on Lake Villarrica, taking in the stunning views before continuing our journey. Next, we headed to the Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas and Parque Nacional Conguillio. While a shortcut was closed, we ended up taking the Panamericana for the first time, marking an iconic stretch of our travels.

Driving through Huerguehue National Park, Conguillio National Park, and the Malalcahuello National Reserve was an unforgettable experience. The journey took us past crystal-clear lakes, deep gorges, and towering volcanoes, all set against a backdrop of stunning natural beauty. The landscape, shaped by ancient volcanic material, felt like a living testament to the power of nature.

One of the highlights was the drive up to the Longquimay Volcano, where we spent the night, witnessing both a mesmerizing sunset and a breathtaking sunrise. The peaceful stillness and the ever-changing sky made for a truly magical experience, one that will stay with us forever.

Crossing the Andes and exploring Central Chile

During our journey to Chile, we decided to camp along the road for the night. Unbeknownst to us, the road had been closed overnight due to heavy snowfall and black ice. The next morning, as we drove along the main road, it struck us as odd that there was no other traffic coming or going. When we reached the tunnel, which was also closed, we were informed by the police, customs, and immigration officials that the route was off-limits due to the weather.

Curious about how we had made it up the mountain, the authorities asked how we managed to navigate such conditions. We simply explained, “With our 4×4, we took it steady, easy on the pedal.” After a few hours of waiting, we were given the go-ahead to continue our journey.

As we descended into Chile, the scenery was breathtaking despite the snow. The road, however, was remarkably dry and well-maintained, making the drive smooth and enjoyable. After months of cold, windy, and rainy weather, we were eager to explore the central part of Chile and finally experience some warmer temperatures.

Santiago, as expected, was a bustling metropolis full of traffic, smog, and freeways. But it’s all part of the charm of a big city. We’re looking forward to the next chapter of our adventure!

Once we arrived at the nominated car park, we were surprised—and disappointed—to be told that motorhomes were no longer allowed to stay overnight. Not a great start. As the evening wore on and we grew desperate for a place to camp, we ended up at a Shell service station in the middle of town. It wasn’t ideal, but at least it was somewhere to sleep—with the caveat that we had to leave before 8:30 AM.

As we drove around Santiago, we noticed the stark contrasts between different neighborhoods. The city, nestled between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, offered glimpses of beauty, but our five-day stay quickly became a game of “Where can we park the truck?”

To make matters worse, the weather forecast looked grim. Our plan to head into the hills around Santiago was abandoned—smog, poor visibility, and the threat of bad weather meant we’d see none of the famous panoramic views of the city backed by the snow-capped Andes.

Decision made: Santiago and Easter Island would have to wait for another time.

Chasing the Sun – Northbound in Chile

The next morning, we decided that Santiago wasn’t for us this time. It was cold, and we were craving sunshine. So, we pointed the car north, hoping for warmer weather. Our first stop: the hilly port city of Valparaíso.

Though it wasn’t exactly beach weather (still cold!), we enjoyed wandering the narrow cobblestone streets and admiring the many colourful buildings that give the city its unique charm. Still, we were determined to find some sun. It had been nearly three months since we last sat outside comfortably, and with the heater running daily, we were desperate for warmth.

So, we hit the road again—this time with purpose—heading north as fast as we could in search of a sunny beach spot to settle in for a week or two. The journey along the Pan-American Highway (Ruta 5) offered stunning scenery, with valleys full of vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see.

When we reached La Serena and Coquimbo, we were welcomed by long, wide beaches and a lovely seaside promenade called Avenida del Mar. Unfortunately, just past La Serena, we missed the famous observatory in the Elqui Valley—by all accounts, a must-visit. A regret for sure, but the sun was calling, and we had to keep moving.

As we travelled north, the weather gradually warmed—at one point reaching a pleasant 27 degrees. It was the perfect time to set up camp and soak up the sun. The next day, we continued our journey further north to Bahia Inglesa. That’s where we had the pleasure of meeting Cloud9’s Patricia and Neil Hay—fantastic people and wonderful company.

The town was exactly as we’d imagined: white sandy beaches, turquoise waters—pure coastal magic, especially once the sun broke through. One of the real joys of travelling off-season is having places like this almost entirely to yourself.

We were told that in January and February this place is packed—holiday homes, hotels, restaurants, and campgrounds overflowing with visitors. So we were glad to be here in the low season.

Our next stop was Caldera, where we stocked up at the Unimarc supermarket in preparation for the next few days in Pan de Azúcar National Park (which translates to “Sugarloaf National Park”). From there, we followed the scenic coastal road north toward Antofagasta. The stretch of road north of Caldera was especially beautiful, giving us a preview of the vast desert landscapes that lay ahead.

Our first campsite was just 8 km north of Chañaral. From there, we began exploring the park, gradually working our way northward. We decided not to visit Isla Pan de Azúcar, home to the Humboldt penguins, as the island is only accessible by boat—and with it being off-season, no boats were running. In hindsight, we were probably just as happy not to go; the ocean swell looked quite rough, and locals told us that even if you make it there, you’re not allowed to disembark onto the island.

En route to Caleta Pan de Azúcar, a small fishing settlement, the scenery and mountain slopes were truly spectacular. This often-overlooked park, with its striking headlands, desert landscapes, ravines, and pristine white beaches, is a perfect place to relax and unwind while overlanding through Chile. Located in the southern part of the Atacama Desert, the park is extremely dry and arid. If we hadn’t already booked services in Antofagasta, we could have easily spent another week exploring the area’s remote beaches. On our way back from the coast, we camped in the bush near the iconic Mano del Desierto before arriving in Antofagasta, Chile’s second-largest city.

CENTRAL CHILE to ATACAMA DESERT & EL TATIO GEYSER

We have arrived in the Atacama Desert, an area stretching 1,600 km from north to south and over 400 km from east to west. This is the driest desert in the world. The average annual rainfall is just 15 mm, but many areas receive no rain for up to four consecutive years. Some weather stations have never recorded any rainfall at all.

The coastal towns of Arica and Iquique get only 1 to 3 mm of rain per year. The desert is so dry that even mountains towering over 6,000 meters are glacier-free, with only the tallest peaks retaining permanent snow cover. While on the coast, we experienced cold temperatures and daily Camanchaca — the thick ocean fog — resulting in chilly days with no sunshine.

The Atacama is much drier than Death Valley in the USA. In fact, some areas of its soil have been compared to that of Mars — how scientists know this exactly eludes me, but that’s what they say. One thing is for sure: the landscape is incredibly dusty, rocky, and desolate.

After a check-up for the vehicle at the Mercedes dealer in Antofagasta, we spent the afternoon and night at Mano del Desierto (“Hand of the Desert”), a striking 36-foot-tall sculpture on a barren desert plateau. From there, we began our loop through the Atacama, heading north along the coast before turning inland toward the largest copper mine in the world.

Our final coastal stop was Iquique, where we stocked up for the next two weeks before heading inland. The city, nestled by the ocean, features palm trees and high-rise buildings. We spent some time on the esplanade, but by mid-afternoon, the cold air rolled in, signaling it was time to move on.

Next, we explored the ghost towns left behind by the nitrate boom. That night we camped in Humberstone — one of more than 170 abandoned nitrate (saltpeter) mining towns scattered across the desert, all of which were shut down during the 20th century. From Humberstone, we made a detour to see the Gigante de Atacama, a massive geoglyph standing 86 meters tall — a testament to the mysterious and ancient history of this incredible desert.

The site itself was disappointing for us; however, the campsite we stayed at was superb. Locals told us that this is the largest anthropomorphic figure in the world. On our drive south toward Calama, we passed numerous ghost towns like Humberstone, as well as fascinating petroglyphs.

Next, we visited the world’s largest copper producer, the Codelco mine in Chuquicamata, just north of Calama. During the tour, we were given many interesting facts—here are a few.

2017 pre-tax profit 2.885 billion despite increased cost of 7.8 %
2018 production of copper will reach 1.7 million tonnes
The mine operates 24/7 365 days of the year.
22 billion will be invested in new projects over the next few years.
Enough copper reserves for the next 70 years based on today’s production rates.
Recently BHP mine Escondida just east of Antofagasta has taken over as the world largest copper mine
In 2019 the production will go underground saving a lot of cost, as the open pit is becoming uneconomic.

Reflections on Calama El Tatio Geysers

While not discussed during our tour, a significant issue in Calama is the pollution—particularly the high levels of arsenic in the air. This has led to the closure of several camps, as many inhabitants were found to have elevated arsenic levels in their blood. When we inquired about the pollution, we were told that all employees are required to wear masks. However, during our visit, very few actually did, which was concerning. Another pressing issue that received little attention is the contamination of the Loa River, which runs through Calama.

Trouble also looms economically, as more than 1,700 of the 6,000 jobs at the mine are expected to be cut once operations move underground. Despite these concerns, the tour was an insightful and overall great experience.

El Tatio Geysers, Our next stop was the El Tatio Geysers, located at 4,350 meters above sea level—making them the highest geysers in the world. We arrived in the late afternoon and stayed overnight. The following morning, we woke up at 5:30 AM to find the temperature had plummeted to minus 18 degrees Celsius. Braving the icy cold and early wake-up was absolutely worth it.

The cold morning temperatures prevent the steam from the 80 geysers from evaporating quickly, creating a magical, surreal landscape. Thanks to the region’s clear skies, high altitude, and dry air, the Atacama Desert is also one of the best places in the world for astronomical observation. Unfortunately, we hadn’t booked in advance, and tours were only available on weekends, so we missed out—but we’re hoping to try again once we reach San Pedro de Atacama.

Atacama Desert, San Pedro de Atacama to the Argentine Border.

Exploring the Atacama Desert

Our journey through the Atacama Desert continued as we drove from the El Tatio Geysers through the beautifully desolate landscape of one of the driest places on Earth, heading towards San Pedro de Atacama. Known as the Valley of the Moon, the area around San Pedro has often been described as resembling the surface of Mars. It’s easy to see why this region draws thousands of tourists each year.

The area around San Pedro has often been described as resembling the surface of Mars. It’s easy to see why this region draws thousands of tourists each year. We spent a week exploring the area—vast salt flats, blue lagoons, and small traditional villages. Just a few kilometres from town lies Valle de la Luna, a rugged, lunar-like terrain with the majestic Andean Mountains in the distance. About 80 kilometres further south is the Salar de Atacama, home to Los Flamencos National Reserve, Chile’s largest salt flat and a haven for flamingos. We spent a night there under the clearest skies imaginable, surrounded by a million stars.

Next, we set off for Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley). Unable to enter with our truck, we explored alternative tracks bypassing the main gate. Although we missed the 100-meter-high dune and its famous view, we were still rewarded with surreal, nearly alien landscapes. Locals told us that NASA once tested their Martian rovers in this very terrain.

We also stayed a night near Cejar Lagoon, where swimming is possible thanks to the 28% salt concentration—just shy of the Dead Sea’s 35%. The salinity makes actual swimming nearly impossible, so you simply float. As with previous nights, stargazing in the world’s driest desert was a highlight. We parked our truck at Andes Nomads Overlander Camp, a perfect base just a few kilometres from San Pedro, run by Maurice, a fellow overlander.

Then it was time to explore San Pedro de Atacama itself, an age-old town with dusty roads and adobe homes. The town blends ancient cultures, indigenous traditions, and modern tourism. Its craft village keeps traditions alive, and the old church—built in 1744—is a historical gem. Life here is slow-paced, and nobody seems in a hurry. Once a mining town for quartz and copper, San Pedro now thrives on tourism.

Our visit coincided with the Fiesta de San Pedro, a vibrant two-day celebration in June commemorating the martyrdom of two Christian saints. The festivities included traditional dances, folk music, street parades, Catholic processions, and locals in colourful traditional dress.

After a few more days of well-earned rest (overlanding is hard work!), we crossed the Andes once more—this time via the spectacular Jama Pass at 4,850 metres. That’s as high as Europe’s Mont Blanc and nearly twice the elevation of Australia’s Mt. Kosciuszko.

returning to Argentina to explore the Far North West Region around Salta.

The drive across the Andean plateau was breathtaking. Tiny villages dot the landscape at over 4,000 metres, where wildlife roams free. We saw llamas and herds of vicuñas—their thick, soft coats are shorn only once every three years, making their wool some of the most valuable in the world.

FAR NORTH CHILE

From Sajama to Arica: Across the Andean Wilderness

Leaving Bolivia’s Sajama National Park, it was a short drive to the Chilean border. Snow was falling, and the weather was poor, casting a dull tone over the rugged landscape. Yet, on a clear day, this arid wilderness reveals striking beauty. On the high Andean plateau, small villages sit at elevations of up to 4,000 meters, where timeless traditions endure in an extreme climate amid breathtaking scenery.

We passed Lake Chungará, located at 4,520 meters above sea level, within Lauca National Park. From there, we made a detour to the Lagunas Cotacotani, hoping to catch a glimpse of the towering volcanoes Parinacota (6,380 meters) and Ajoya (5,300 meters). Lauca National Park, a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, is celebrated for its rich diversity of flora and fauna. We visited the historic town of Parinacota, known for its beautiful church, as well as the villages of Chucuyo, Chungará, Ajata, and Cruzane. Just outside the park lies Putre, a historic village dating back to the 17th century and a great place to spend the night. From here, there are stunning views of the Taapaca group of volcanoes.

Putre is the largest settlement between the Bolivian border and the coastal city of Arica.

Another must-see destination is the Surire Salt Flat, sitting over 4,200 meters above sea level. This striking white salt plain is home to deep blue lagoons that contrast dramatically with the dry desert surroundings. It’s one of the highlights of Lauca National Park.

Descending from Putre, we reached the lush Agriculture Valley. Towering dunes flank fertile green areas where olives, tropical fruits, and other crops are cultivated. The landscape is vibrant and colorful—don’t miss the natural juices sold in the small villages along the way.

Our journey ended in Arica, the “City of Eternal Spring.” Known for its sun, beaches, and water sports, Arica blends desert terrain with ocean views and the distant Andean peaks. South of the city lies Codpa, a small village nestled in a green valley surrounded by cliffs, hot springs, and mountains—an ideal spot for a peaceful break. For us, it was the perfect place to spend Christmas and reconnect with fellow overlanders.