SOUTH WEST COLORADO
This is our third visit to Colorado while overlanding the USA. In 2023 we covered the Northern and Southwest part of Colorado, this time 2024 we entered from Kansas in the Southeast of Colorado.
Following the Highway of Legends covering the historic routes that have long been travelled among Colorado’s southern foothills. We love Colorado and we understand why Katherine Bates wrote the lyrics to America the beautiful while she at the top of Pikes Peak in Colorado.
The national scenic byway passes through the San Isobel National Forest it is just a shame those Americans are always in such a hurry, it amazes us that on a scenic byway they come past at 65 miles (100 kilometres per hour) towing some humongous spaceship (RV) with up to 3 axels, 3 air conditioning units. PFFFFF.
We stopped for lunch with a view of the snowcapped Spanish Peaks. the Spanish Peaks are 2 peaks. West Peak at 4020 meters and the East Peak at 3850 meters high.
Following the road to Alamosa driving through small towns, we passed Aquilar also known as little Chicago, Al Capone was known for his crimes in Chicago using Aquilar to hide out. Heading west we passed the historic town of Cokedale. The town itself was built for the miners’ families, staying in place even after the mine left town. Thus, making it one of the most intact mining camps in Colorado.
Cuchara Village is A great example of a turn-of-the-century Colorado mountain town, the picturesque village is surrounded by the San Isabel National Forest. the Dog Bar & Grill, for a good beer and burger a favourite for both locals and tourists alike.
Walsenburg along the Highway of Legends is the historic coal town. Known as the “city built on coal,” Walsenburg gained a reputation as a booming mining community in southern Colorado. We are now in San Luis Valley.
Just 5 kilometres before Alamosa is the national wildlife refuge, on the banks of the Rio Grande.
The town of Alamosa is popular with the weekend warriors and those loving outdoor activities. For us it became the Walmart shopping day, overnight in the Walmart carpark where we met up with fellow Aussie overlanders Chris and Odette for happy hour and exchanging ideas.
Great sand dune National Park
Sand dunes National Park was our next stop to visit North America’s tallest sand dunes, and the varies hot springs. We found a nice spot to camp overnight on BLM land Between the towering mountains at the base Sange de Cristo Mountains. This 45 sq kilometre dune park has the tallest sand dunes in the USA, rising to 250 meters high between the mountains Sangre de Cristo and San Juan up 4300 meters high on one side and the flat, arid scrub-brush of the San Luis Valley on the other. Before we found a place to camp, we drove up to Zapata Falls. The falls were formed when South Zapata Creek wore a groove in the rocks of the Sangre de Cristos mountains, Over thousands of years, the creek has carved a dim, deep and narrow chasm through which water tumbles around 10 meters. In the summer, the falls offer a cool respite; winter temperatures turn them into a giant ice sculpture.
Overnight the weather turned nasty again with strong wind, rain, sleet, and snow.
We left early for our next destination the historic town of Creede.
We followed the 160 to South Fork where we turned North following the Silver Thread Scenic and Historic Byway climbing from 2500 meters to over 3250 meters at the top of Bachelor Loop. The scenic byway offers scenic views and historic towns.
Creede was the last silver boom town in Colorado. The Creede mines operated continuously from 1890 until 1985. The historic mining town of Creede is in a beautiful canyon 8,852 feet up in the San Juan Mountains, near the headwaters of the Rio Grande which flows through the San Juan Mountains and the San Luis Valley on its way to New Mexico, Texas and into the Gulf of Mexico. With more snow forecast we decided to do the Bachelor Loop tour upon arriving instead of the following day. The Loop drives up and around the Creede historic mining district of the area and is accessible with a 4WD vehicle. In fact, the only steep part is in the first 4 kilometres when driving the loop from East to West. The whole district around Creede is full of historic silver mining and ghost towns. The Creede Underground Mining Museum is adjacent to the tour route at the north end of Creede but unfortunately for us was closed.
The Bachelor Loop weaves its way up through the canyon north of Creede climbing under the ragged cliff sides. Passing many mine locations from the 1890s and abandoned ghost towns that once rivalled Creede in size. The loop road has some narrow stretches and steep grades that require caution when driving a truck our size (12000KG) We were advised at the very friendly visitor centre in Creede that the old mine buildings are structurally unsound and dangerous to enter and the mining equipment unsafe to be around. The mine shafts and tunnels are extremely unsafe and are often filled with poisonous and/or explosive gases. So be warned. Halfway our trip it started to snow making the steep hill even more fun.
Overnight we camp on a nice flat spot overlooking the valley, strong winds in the afternoon and snowfall overnight killed our idea of a good campfire.
We back tracked to South Fork and followed the 160 towards Chimney National Park. Unfortunately, the park was closed due to snowfall. With cold weather and slippery roads, we decided to move south and our next destination Aztec in New Mexico.
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