KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA

PART 1, General Information

PART 2, Blogs, and Pictures

PART 3, VIDEO COMPILATION  

 

PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION

Capital city; Riyadh
Population; 34 million
Currency; Saudi riyal
Km travelled; 750
Days in Saudi Arabia; 4
Languages; Arabic

PART 1 GENERAL

Saudi Arabia is the birthplace of Islam and home to its two holiest cities, Mecca and Medina. The country experienced a massive economic boom in the 1970s and 1980s due to enormous revenues from oil exports. Saudi Arabia holds the world’s largest proven oil reserves, accounting for about one-fifth of global reserves. This wealth has fueled rapid modernization, transforming the country from a developing nation into a modern state.

To support its development, Saudi Arabia imported large numbers of foreign workers, ranging from highly skilled professionals to laborers performing simpler tasks. Foreign workers today make up nearly 25% of the population.

Historically, women were not permitted to drive, but this ban was lifted in June 2018. Nevertheless, women are still subject to the country’s guardianship system, in which a male guardian—usually a father, husband, brother, or adult son—has legal authority over many aspects of a woman’s life. While women no longer require guardian permission to work or study by law, many employers and universities continue to request it.

Water scarcity is a major challenge in Saudi Arabia. To address this, the country has developed the world’s largest single desalination program, providing most domestic and industrial water needs. Limited underground aquifers supply potable water, and significant energy and infrastructure have been invested in dams and water-recycling plants.

Under Islamic law, banks are prohibited from charging interest. To navigate this, Saudi banks levy fees for lending and pay commissions on deposits.

During our visit in 2010, women were still not allowed to drive. With our right-hand drive motorhome, we were frequently stopped by police who assumed that Clary was driving. Our trip was limited to four days, covering the route from Jeddah to the Jordanian border, which left us no time to visit any sites other than the city of Jeddah. Attempts to enter Mecca were denied, as the city is restricted to Muslims only.

Saudi Arabia has begun opening up to foreign tourists, and notable changes are taking place. Since June 2018, women can drive, and hotels now allow unmarried foreign couples to stay (though couples must still prove marital status in certain circumstances). However, the country remains politically restrictive: there is no free speech, no alcohol, limited interaction between the sexes, and ongoing concerns about human rights.

Our experience was confined to Jeddah, but it provided a glimpse into a country in transition—balancing modernization and tourism with traditional laws and social norms.

TOURIST HIGHLIGHTS

During our visit in 2010, women were not allowed to drive in Saudi Arabia. With our right-hand-drive motorhome, this led to several stops by the police who assumed Clary was driving. Unfortunately, we only had four days to travel from Jeddah to the Jordan border, so we didn’t have time to visit any sites beyond the city of Jeddah.

Saudi Arabia has seen significant changes in recent years. Since June 2018, women have been allowed to drive, and foreign tourists are now welcomed as part of the country’s efforts to open its doors. Hotels are also now open to unmarried foreign couples (previously, during our visit, we had to prove we were married).

Despite these changes, Saudi Arabia remains a country with no political freedom, limited free speech, a strict prohibition on alcohol, minimal mingling between the sexes, and—like several other countries in the Middle East—a widely criticized human rights record.

During our trip, we only explored one major area: Jeddah. We attempted to enter Mecca but were turned away, as the city is strictly reserved for Muslims.

JEDDAH
Until 1982 this was the capital of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, before it moved to Riyadh, In the winding, cobbled backstreets of the old district, known as the Balad, you find spice markets and many little coffeeshops and where Egyptians sit at café tables, puffing on shisha waterpipes and playing backgammon beneath the street lights. Yemeni tailors squat cross-legged in clothing shops working late into the night while Somali, Eritrean and Djiboutian women lay out displays of spices in the street market. Jeddah is also the gateway to Mecca and Medina for the two million-plus Muslims who make the Hajj pilgrimage each year.

CLIMATE
Average temperatures for the coolest months, December through February, are 23 °C at Jeddah 14 °C at Riyadh, Summers, from June to August, are hot, with daytime temperatures in the shade exceeding 38 °C in almost all of the country. Temperatures in the desert frequently rise as high as 55 °C in the summer. Humidity is low, except along the coasts, where it can be high and very oppressive. The level of rain is also low throughout the country, amounting to 65 mm at Jeddah, and little more than 75 mm at Riyadh.

PART 2, BLOGS PICTURES AND GALLERY

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES!

We were supposed to arrive in Jeddah at 8am, but this ended up being 2pm. The journey took 14 hours. Because of a problem with many illegal people being on board the ferry, we left Sudan 7 hours late. We were due to depart at 5pm but it ended up being midnight. You have never seen such a chaotic and bureaucratic nightmare in your life. We were in a queue for over 7 hours just to get our papers stamped. Then after several hours we made it to the desk only to be told it was lunch time and to come back at 2pm. It took 7 hours to get 3 stamps and our Carnet stamped.Then we had another hold up (prayer time) and the inefficiency is just unbelievable hence the borders are wide open. People seem to wander everywhere including onto the ship without tickets or passports! In hindsight we picked the wrong time, (Hajj) but we had no way at extending our Sudan Visa, so we had no choice. Our ship the Adriatico had 2500 Muslim pilgrims on board, plus 2 westerners (Clary and me)! Every year, millions of Muslims perform the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca walking seven times around the Kaaba. More than 13 million people visit Mecca annually.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Surviving the “Luxury” 18-Hour Cruise

Ah, the allure of first-class travel… or so we thought. For 400 AUD, we booked what we assumed would be a cozy, luxurious overnight cruise. What we got was something between a minimalist hostel and an obstacle course.

Step one: dining. The restaurant proudly displayed beautiful pictures of ice cream, chicken, and other mouth-watering dishes. Unfortunately, these were purely decorative—a sophisticated form of culinary deception. In reality, the menu consisted of a choice between a Middle Eastern porridge (think oatmeal with a cultural twist) and chicken. Beverages? Coke, Fanta, water, and 7Up. Gourmet, right?

After dinner, we tried to enjoy our “first-class” cabin. Little did we know, most passengers didn’t have cabins at all. Instead, the gangways became impromptu dormitories, with people sleeping everywhere—doorsteps, hallways, even the occasional hallway corner outside our cabin. Add in prayer stations scattered like spiritual speed bumps, and navigating back to your room became an extreme sport.

As night fell, we eagerly awaited the abandon-ship drill—because, you know, safety first. It never came. Life jackets? A mystery, probably stored behind triple locks somewhere, perhaps in Dar Es Salaam, because apparently people here are very serious about “sharing is caring.”

Despite the lack of entertainment, fancy food, and safety drills, we survived the 18-hour journey. And honestly? For 400 AUD, our expectations may have been too high. Lesson learned: sometimes “first class” just means you have a bed while everyone else sleeps in the hall.

Would we do it again? Sure—if only for the stories.

ARRIVING IN SAUDI ARABIA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What a difference a day makes! We left Sudan—just 250 km away as the crow flies—and arrived in the ultra-wealthy Saudi Arabia, and the culture shock was immediate. After our truck was cleared through customs, we decided to spend the night at a hotel in Jeddah. With no GPS in Saudi Arabia, we were grateful for the kindness of locals: both Saudis and Sudanese people were incredibly friendly and guided us straight to the front of the hotel.

We ended up in a five-star luxury hotel for just 125 AUD—a steal! In Jeddah, shops stay open until 10 pm, so after checking in, we went out for a walk. But before we could even leave the hotel, the doorman stopped Clary, telling her she wasn’t properly dressed to go out.

 

She was told she couldn’t go out in long slacks and bare arms. So, we stepped back into the reception, where a lady handed Clary a long black robe and a headscarf. Fully dressed, we ventured out again. I, on the other hand, was in shorts—which was a blessing, as the temperature at 6 pm was still over 40°C. As we say in Australia, “I’m alright, Jack.”

Our mission? To track down a map of Saudi Arabia and, if possible, a Lonely Planet magazine covering the Middle East.

 

The map we found but no such luck with the Lonely Planet magazine or a Bradt travel guide. It was unbelievable to see all this wealth, the cars, the amount of food, and all the goodies we had not seen for a long time were all available in the shops. Maybe we have forgotten what it is like to live in a wealthy country. We just wondered what all those poor Sudanese pilgrims would think when they were bused from the terminal to camps outside Jeddah. Security was very tight, and all police and soldiers were on edge. The papers stated over 2.5 Million people had arrived and more will arrive in the next day or so. New facilities, including a railway, have been constructed to make the pilgrimage a success. Going to Saudi must include Mecca but as non-Muslims, we were not allowed into Mecca.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our truck quickly became the center of attention in the hotel car park. Within an hour, everyone seemed to know it belonged to us. We were reassured it would be safe and looked after overnight, which allowed us to relax completely.

To celebrate our 33rd wedding anniversary, we decided to treat ourselves to the hotel’s BBQ buffet. In true Africa/Middle East style, all we had to do was point out what we liked—everything else was taken care of. The desserts were a highlight: a range of the finest Middle Eastern sweets we’ve ever tasted.

It turned into a late night, but one we’ll remember fondly. It was, without a doubt, our best meal since leaving Australia.

THE HAJJ

The Hajj is the annual pilgrimage to Mecca. The main reason Muslims go to Mecca is to pray in the Masjid al-Haram. Pilgrims walk around the Kaaba in a counter-clockwise direction (Tawaf). This annual pilgrimage is known as the fifth pillar of Islam, a religious duty that must be carried out at least once in their lifetime by every able-bodied Muslim who can afford to do so. The Hajj is a demonstration of the solidarity of the Muslim people, and their submission to God (Allah in the Arabic language). The pilgrimage occurs from the 8th to 12th day of Dhu al-Hijjah, the 12th and last month of the Islamic calendar. Because the Islamic calendar is a lunar calendar, eleven days shorter than the Gregorian calendar used in the Western world, the Gregorian date of the Hajj changes from year to year. Ihram is the name given to the special state in which Muslims live whilst on the pilgrimage.

Mecca is now no longer an option because as non-Muslims we are not permitted. We also tried to get an extension for our Visa, but unfortunately Western tourism is not important to Saudi and in fact I think the government doesn’t like us being here. Officials are a bit of a pain but friendly and no-one seems to be able to make a decision.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Having been refused a visa before, we approached our second attempt cautiously. Yet, after paying $200 for the visa and an additional $80 in taxes—whose exact purpose remained a mystery—we found ourselves wishing we had more time to explore. Saudi Arabia, we discovered, is a land of contrasts. Its history and culture are fascinating, from ancient ruins tucked four hours from Medina to the majestic Red Sea beaches with turquoise waters that offer some of the world’s finest diving, yet draw only a few visitors. The mountains and valleys create landscapes so stunning they almost feel unreal.

Tourism, however, is largely intertwined with religion. Mecca, the spiritual heart of Islam, attracts millions of pilgrims each year during Hajj, Ramadan, and Umrah, a reminder of the deep cultural significance woven throughout daily life.

Early one morning, we checked emails for the last time before our journey to Jordan and arranged a taxi to explore both old and new Jeddah. From our room, the view was striking but unsettling: a large marble slab in a car park, the site of public beheadings that occur once or twice a month. Our room boy casually pointed it out, and our taxi driver spoke of having attended many, almost proudly. The juxtaposition was jarring—the city’s vibrant streets, historic architecture, and bustling markets set against these harsh realities.

Saudi Arabia left us with a powerful impression: a place of incredible beauty and history, yet bound by strict traditions and laws, a country that is as challenging to understand as it is captivating to explore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

JEDDAH TO JORDAN BORDER

After wandering through the old and new parts of Jeddah, we hit the road north toward the Jordan border. But first—diesel. 145 litres. 10 AUD. Yes, you read that right. 6.5 cents per litre. It felt like a tiny victory against the sky-high visa fees.

The highway? Unreal. Four lanes of glass-smooth asphalt stretching as far as the eye could see, fenced for 400 km to keep camels off the road. Cars were flying past at over 200 km/h, and we couldn’t help but push the pedal a little ourselves. Driving here felt like we’d stumbled onto a German autobahn in the middle of the desert.

By 5 pm, we pulled off onto a bush camp by the Red Sea. Cue the perfect sunset spilling over Egypt—one of those moments that makes you forget every mile you’ve just driven. And then reality hit: the coast guard spotted our truck. Within minutes, we had visitors—army, navy, and coast guard—all stopping by to check out our little seaside setup.

A day that started with speed and freedom ended with a sunset and a healthy dose of bureaucracy. Just another day on the road in Saudi Arabia.

None of the Army, Coastguards and soldiers spoke a word of English, so communication was all arms and gestures—a pantomime of sorts. It didn’t take long before we realized we’d pitched our camp on military and coast guard land! A flash of panic ran through us, but to our surprise, they allowed us to stay—though with one strict rule: “no photos!”. Tomorrow, we were to meet the Captain to get our permit officially signed. Let’s just hope no Somalis decided to land on this beach tonight.

By 7:30 pm, the last of our unexpected visitors had left, and we finally allowed ourselves a moment to breathe and crack open a cold Coca-Cola. Clary remained fully dressed, tucked away in the truck whenever men arrived. She couldn’t show herself, a quiet shadow in the fading light. The night unfolded with more visits from the army, navy, and coast guard, each check-in strangely reassuring—we were under watchful eyes, but in a kind, protective way.

The guides told us the weather would gradually cool as we traveled north. Aqaba would be pleasantly warm at around 30 °C, but further on, the temperatures would drop even more, with snow in Turkey expected in about three weeks. For now, we were still in the grip of the Red Sea’s warm, inviting waters and the scorching Saudi sun, with days hitting a blazing 48 °C.

Leaving our hidden beach camp was bittersweet. We had imagined lingering another day, swimming in the gentle waves and soaking up the sun. But visa restrictions left us no choice. Still, the hospitality of the Saudi people lingered in our minds—a warmth that rivaled the sun itself.

The roads ahead were a traveler’s dream: smooth, empty, and silent, stretching across the desert with no cattle, no people, no ox carts, no donkey carts—just the hum of our tires on pristine asphalt. The emptiness of the landscape was thrilling in its own way, a reminder that adventure often comes with solitude, and that the best journeys are as much about the road as the destination.

We drove on, hearts full of the night’s excitement, eyes on the horizon, chasing cooler winds and the promise of new landscapes, knowing the next adventure was just around the bend.

 

Saudi drivers don’t mess around—200 kph on their pristine highways is basically a casual Sunday cruise. Today’s scenery kept changing like a slideshow on fast-forward: one moment we were skimming across endless sandy desert, the next winding through rugged hills. Near the border, we even climbed to 1,100 meters, and the descent gave us a jaw-dropping view over the Red Sea toward Egypt—though, sadly, darkness was creeping in.

The border crossing? A lesson in patience. Two hours to leave Saudi Arabia, 1.5 to enter Jordan, all while wondering why we paid $105 for mandatory third-party insurance and $20 for… well, some mysterious duty. Eventually, we were cleared to continue, joining a caravan of Saudis making their weekend pilgrimage to Jordan (yes, Jordan has alcohol and ladies of leisure this is a big draw for many Saudi men.

By the time we hit the road again, and the desert lights twinkled like tiny fireflies. The engine’s hum, the fading sun, and the open road made it feel like anything was possible—just another chapter in the kind of journey you remember long after the GPS battery dies.

The resorts started appearing just a kilometre from the border and it was only another 7km before we arrived at our camp spot. It is part of a small backpacker resort and is situated right opposite a perfect beach. This place even had a pool! This is the first camp spot with a pool since we left South Africa. Yahoo. All going well we will have a few days R&R here. More importantly, the temp has also dropped and hovers around 33 degrees Celsius during the day, so we are told. By 7pm our camp was set up and it was time for a BBQ.

3 days transit visa was not enough to explore this part of Saudi Arabia.

PART 3, VIDEO COMPILATION

1. Saudi Arabia

1. Saudi Arabia