SOUTHERN USA

TEXAS, NEW MEXICO, LOUISIANA, MISSISSIPI, TENNESSEE, ALABAMA, FLORIDA

PART 1 GENERAL INFORMATION

PART 2 BLOGS

PART 3 VIDEO CLIPS

 

1. GENERAL INFORMATION

Exploring the American South: A Journey Through Music, Culture, and Landscapes

The Southern United States also known as the American South, the Southland, or Dixieland is a region located between the Atlantic Ocean and the Western United States, with the Midwest and Northeast to its north and the Gulf of Mexico and Mexico to its south.

The South is known for its distinct culture, shaped by a blend of influences from various ethnic groups, including European (English, Scots-Irish, Scottish, Irish, French, and Spanish), African, and Native American ancestries. Over time, Southern states have become a melting pot of cultures, reflected in their unique customs, fashion, architecture, music, and cuisine.

Historically, the South was profoundly shaped by the institution of slave labour, particularly in the Deep South and coastal plain areas. After the Civil War, the region saw the rise of Jim Crow laws, which enforced racial segregation in schools and public facilities until the 1960s. Systemic barriers such as poll taxes and other discriminatory policies also disenfranchised Black citizens and poor communities. Some scholars have described certain parts of the South as authoritarian enclaves during the period between Reconstruction and the passage of the Civil Rights Act of 1964.

Our travels through the American South immersed us in its rich music history, starting with a visit to Graceland in Memphis, Tennessee, the legendary home of Elvis Presley. A walk down Beale Street brought us live blues music, mouthwatering barbecue, and a deep dive into the city’s vibrant cultural heritage. Heading south, we found ourselves in New Orleans, where jazz-filled streets, world-famous Creole and Cajun cuisine, and the charm of the French Quarter created an unforgettable atmosphere. The city’s historic architecture, lively festivals like Mardi Gras, and the mysterious bayous made it a truly unique destination. The sounds of Memphis, New Orleans, and Nashville are a must for any music lover.

For those drawn to the cowboy lifestyle, Texas offers the ultimate ranching experience. We visited a working ranch where we tried cattle herding and soaked in the excitement of a rodeo in Fort Worth and Amarillo. Texas’ vast landscapes range from the rugged beauty of Big Bend National Park, Carlsberg Caverns to the rolling Hill Country. The state’s lively capital, Austin, is a hub for live music and incredible food, making it a must-visit destination.

Our final stop was Florida, known as the Sunshine State and the third most populous in the U.S., home to over 21 million people. Florida’s cultural diversity is shaped by immigrants from Cuba, Haiti, Colombia, Mexico, and Jamaica. The state, a peninsula surrounded by water on three sides, boasts stunning coastlines along the Gulf of Mexico, the Florida Straits, and the Atlantic Ocean.

We entered Florida from the west, traveling through the Panhandle, famous for its sugar-white beaches, then continued south along the Gulf Coast to Key West before making our way back via the East Coast. With its balmy weather, luxury resorts, Latin-Caribbean influences, and world-famous attractions like theme parks and the Kennedy Space Center near Cape Canaveral, Florida was the perfect way to end our Southern adventure.

PART 2 BLOGS

 1. NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

 2. NEW MEXICO ROUTE 66

 3. TEXAS ROUTE 66

 4, TEXAS. Tucson (Arizona) to San Anthonio. 

 5, TEXAS. Padre Island to New Orleans.

 6, LOUISIANA,  NEW ORLEANS. 

 7. MISSISSIPPI & TENNESSEE, MEMPHIS.

 8. TENNESSEE, NASHVILLE. 

 9. ALABAMA.

 10 FLORIDA. Panhandle to Ft Myers

 11  FLORIDA.  FT Myers to the Everglades

 12. FLORIDA. The Everglades to The Florida Keys.

 13. FLORIDA. Florida Keys to Cape Canaveral  

 14. FLORIDA.  Cape Canaveral to Florida Panhandle. 

 

 NEW MEXICO

1. NEW MEXICO (Northern Region)

NEW MEXICO, also known as the land of enchantment.

After we explored Route 66 in Central New Mexico this time we entered New Mexico from Colorado in the North to explore the Northern Part of New Mexico. New Mexico is defined by both culture and adventure and scenic landscape, New Mexico is home to 23 Native American Tribes, Pueblos, and the Navajo Nation, which each have their own languages, cultures, and ways of life.

In Aztec we visited The UNESCO World Heritage Aztec Ruins National Monument, The Ancient Pueblo people lived and flourished at this very sacred and spiritual place. This national monument allows visitors to respectfully enter some of these dwellings to experience a glimpse into the history of the land,

Aztec’s history of human habitation goes back a thousand years, when Native Americans settled along the Animas River. The remains of buildings they constructed have become Aztec Ruins National Monument.

Farmington, the gateway to the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway, amazing culture and indigenous culture enroute. The rugged beauty of the high desert terrain around Farmington is very unusual.

The other feature is the Shiprock Pinnacle. Native culture in Farmington, located in the heart of the Four Corners region, which has been home to Pueblo, Navajo, Hopi, and other Native people for centuries

Leaving Farmington, we followed part of the Grand Circle like we did last year. This amazingly scenic road full of natural wonders, including National parks, monuments, scenic byways and native American culture sites.

 

New Mexico Northern Part is amazing (except the road to the Arizona border) We are looking forward to our next visit in June/July when we will explore the southern part of New Mexico.

2. NEW MEXICO  (ROUTE 66)  UNDER CONSTRUCTION

TEXAS

3. TEXAS ( ROUTE 66)

This post will discuss Route 66 in Texas. In a few months we will travel a little more south in Texas the most populous state in the southern region of the United States, after we return from the Northern part of Mexico and the Baja California.

Route 66 has many names, The Mother Road, The Main Street of America, The Will Rogers Highway. When it comes to quirky roadside attractions, a small-town Americana feel, vintage charm, and a wide variety of things to do, you will find them along this route. Luckily, there is a short-but-sweet stretch of Route 66 in Texas!

Despite being, geographically speaking Texas is the largest state along Route 66, Texas is home to only 290 kilometres of Route 66. The road cuts straight across the Texas Panhandle in the far Northwest.

Crossing into Texas at the ghost town of Glenrio was disappointing, the town is full of abandoned buildings.

One of the most famous towns along the portion of Route 66 in Texas is Adrian, Midway Point along the historic Route 66, exact 1822 kilometres from Chicago, and 1822 kilometres from Los Angeles.

The Midpoint Cafe has had many names, owners, and iterations since it first opened in 1928, but today, it remains proudly in the centre of historic Route 66, with a slogan that reads “when you’re here, you’re halfway there.”

Just before Amarillo is Cadillac Ranch a classic Route 66 roadside attraction: it is colourful, kitsch, and more than a little ridiculous. Ten Cadillacs are lined up neatly in a row with their frontends buried in the desert and every inch of visible surface covered in thousands of layers of spray paint courtesy of the tourist visiting. The stall at the entrance sells the spray paint and of you go. From what we are told this is now one of the most famous stops along Route 66 in Texas. Bruce Springsteen named the song Cadillac Ranch in his 1980 album The River.

Just past Cadillac Ranch is the 2^nd Amendment cowboy; this huge cowboy (statue) in yellow shirt that reads “2nd Amendment Cowboy” is placed in front of 3 classic Cadillacs.

Halfway the night we were woken by thunder, rain, and gale force winds, this did not get better for the rest of the day and in the neighbouring state Oklahoma, a tornado watch was in place.

Amarillo is the only city along Route 66 in Texas. (the Lone Star State) Route 66’s most famous restaurant is Big Texan Steak Ranch where you can get a 2KG steak plus vegetables, and chips and if you can eat the steak in 1 hour it is free. If you take the challenge, you will need to sit on a small stage-like table at the front of the restaurant. If not, prepare to cough up US $72.

Palo Duro Canyon, the second-largest canyon in the USA, nicknamed the Grand Canyon of Texas, is located just 30 minutes off Route 66 and is worth a detour. Unfortunately, due to atrocious weather, rain, hail, sleet and gale force winds, we decided against a visit and drove east towards Oklahoma. According to other overlanders Palo Duro Canyon is the most spectacular and scenic landscape feature in the Texas Panhandle, with a descent of some 800 feet to the canyon floor.

Combine City. when Orville Ladehoff did not know what he was going to do with a broken-down old combine, his wife said why do you not just bury it as a joke. That was the spark that ignited the farmer’s crazy idea — not to bury, but to “plant” combine harvesters on his two-acre plot of land.

Ozymandias on the Plains, two vast and trunkless legs of stone stand in the middle of no-where! Named for a 19th-century Percy Shelley poem that references an Egyptian King, Ozymandias on the Plains may look like a damaged statue, but it was built to look exactly as it does. Local self-taught artist Lightning built the sculpture McDuff, who specializes in altering found objects to make new pieces of art.

The VW Slug Bug Ranch just outside Amarillo is a copy to the more-famous Cadillac Ranch but done with five VW Slug Bugs.

 

McLean. Once a thriving town on Route 66. Boosted not only by Route 66 visitors, but by ranching and the oil boom, McLean’s entire Commercial District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a must-see when driving the route through Texas.

Groom is a small town on Historic Route 66 in Texas. It is famous for its 198 foot tall giant cross, and its leaning water tower. This leaning water tower may look like it’s on the brink of falling over, but it was put there as an advertisement for a truck stop (which no longer exists)

On our way to Oklahoma, we stopped at Shamrock which is known for its classic Art Deco architecture, the famous Conoco Tower Station and U-Drop Inn Café. Built in 1936 at the cost of $23,000, this gem of a building got its start in the dust when the idea was written on the ground with an old nail.

 

Texola is located on the Oklahoma/Texas border; this town has been claimed by both Texas and Oklahoma due to the changes of the state border numerous times.

4. TEXAS. Tucson (Arizona) to San Anthonio

After a week of 48 degrees, sightseeing in Tucson and waiting for parts to arrive it was time

to move east. From the rugged mountain and the desert of Sierra Vista, the southeast corner of Arizona is one of the state’s most scenic regions. Southern Arizona’s boundaries are not well-defined, it is generally considered to include all areas south of the Gila River.

With the weather still hot (48 degrees plus) and heatwave warnings out every day we decided to detour to historic Tombstone, located at an altitude of 1500 meters. But even at 1500 meters it was still 38 degrees, but the nights were cooler at 26 degrees.

This region is part of the wild west and walking around town feels like you are back in the 1800s, when cowboys and outlaws where in town. The central street of downtown Tombstone, Allen Street, retains much of the historic character that made it famous all those decades ago.

Growing up in the 60’s we loved our cowboys and wild west movies. Tombstone in Arizona and Virginia City in Utah are 2 towns which made us feel like being in a wild west movie.

Back in the day, Tombstone was a place for lawlessness, gunplay, and all kinds of debauchery, with a deep connection to American lawman and gunslinger Wyatt Earp.

Allen Street is the main hub for Tombstone tourism with historic saloons all surrounded by the living history of the True West. Tombstone is also known as “the town too tough to die.”

Thousands of people were calling Tombstone home by the mid-1880s. The exact numbers are murky because only white men over 21 were counted in that kind of data at that time.

Tombstone serves your typical American food: burgers, steaks, chips, hotdogs etc. Many pubs and restaurants have a lot of history attached.

Bird Cage Theatre operated through the 1880s as a saloon, bar, theatre, and brothel. The ladies who worked the brothel hung from the ceiling in large bird cages.

Big Nose Kate’s Saloon also worth a visit; the pub is named after Mary Katherine Horony-Cummings, or “Big Nose Kate.” She was a prostitute and common-law wife of Doc Holliday.

 

Time to move on, next stop New Mexico. New Mexico lives up to its slogan the “Land of Enchantment” with its vibrant scenery, towns, culture, and attractions. New Mexico’s history tells the stories of the Native American, Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo-American cultures that shaped it. It is a unique destination, with more open, empty spaces than people and boundless natural attractions.

Las Cruces

Las Cruces is the most populous city in southern New Mexico. The city’s major employer is the federal government on nearby White Sands Test Facility  and Missile Range. The Organ Mountains, 16 km to the east, are dominant in the city’s landscape, and just 60km north of the Mexican Border.

Spaceport America and the Missile Range are 90 km North of Las Cruces  to the north towards White Sands National Park and has completed several successful crewed, sub-orbital flights. Las Cruces is also the headquarters for Virgin Galatic, the world’s first company to offer sub orbital spaceflights.

 

White Sands National Monument is one of the most stunning landscapes in the state, located an hour’s drive Northeast of Las Cruces. gleaming white gypsum sand has built up into an extraordinary landscape of dunes up to 60 feet high, which are constantly displaced by the wind. you may be fooled into thinking that sand dunes look like giant snowdrifts. To be honest the park was a little disappointing but as they say YOU NEVER NEVER KNOW IF YOU NEVER NEVER GO

Next stop the border town of El Paso in Texas. We should have known better but believed Ioverlander and decided to stay overnight at the Texas Welcome Centre just past the state border inside Texas. The noise of the trucks and the freeway were enormous and I have no idea why people would recommend this place unless you are one of the US road trippers who park your RV, turn on the aircon and turn on the TV, or arrive at midnight and leave again at 6AM the following morning. PFFF

El Paso is located at the western edge of Texas on the left bank of the Rio Grande, which here forms the frontier with Mexico. Its unique desert landscapes are home to diverse flora and fauna, and the city is rich in cultural attractions. It is also home to Fort Bliss one of the largest air defence centres in the world, Franklin Mountains State Park and for magnificent views of the city. The El Paso Scenic Drive is a must-experience, with the best views of the city and its border landscape covering New Mexico, Texas, and Mexico along the southern edge of the Franklin Mountains. Unfortunately for us it was very hazy hence no views (42 degrees Celsius)

Around 150 kilometres north of El Paso is Guadalupe Mountains National Park home to the four highest peaks in Texas. It is also known for an abundance of wildlife, including golden eagles. The landscape itself is stunning, especially around the towering El Capitan, as well as the Guadalupe Peak, the highest elevation in Texas. It is a hiker’s paradise with more than 120 kilometres of trails through spectacular woodland canyons and lush springs. But we follow the off-road trails on 4 wheels as we are not really hikers.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Musty-smelling stone and fluttering Mexican free-tailed bats add to the creepiness as you descend 250 meters underground into the strange underground world of one of the planet’s greatest cave systems. Riding an elevator that drops the height of the Empire State Building into a bat-filled cavern is amazing, going from 40 degrees down to 22 degrees in a matter of seconds.  Carlsbad Caverns is comprised of 120 known limestone caves created by an ancient sea thousands of years ago. Its most famous attraction is the Big Room which is a giant space. The room is 600 meters long with an 85-meter-high ceiling, it is filled with stalagmites and other alien-looking landscape features.

The caves are home to a colony of about 400,000 bats that roost here between mid-April and October. At sunset each evening during this period the bats emerge from the mouth of the caves to hunt down buggy dinners. It is a beautiful spectacle to watch thousands of bats flying from the mouths of the caves, cutting black lines through the crimson sky.

Our plan was to visit Big Bend National Park on the border with Mexico but the extreme heat (48 degrees) and the comments from other overlanders that if you have seen Big Bend in Utah this one will be disappointing, hence we continued towards San Antonio following the Texas oil fields.

San Antonio, famous for the Alamo and the River Walk, is a must-see city if you are going to Texas. Stretching for several miles along the San Antonio River in the heart of the city, the River Walk is lined with restaurants and lovely outdoor patios, where you can sit and dine alongside the river. Built below street level, this pedestrian walkway hugs the river as it winds and waves through the city and is as popular among locals as it is for tourists, day, and night. Although strolling along the river is the most popular thing to do here, another wonderful way to enjoy the ambience of the area is on a leisurely cruise on a river boat.

Our 3-day planned stay became 7 days due to Hurricane Beryl reforming in the Gulf of Mexico and heading direct for Padre Island.  But there are worse places to be stuck than vibrant San Antonio with year-round festivities, entertainment, outdoor cafes and bars and a great nightlife.

• Tropical Storm Beryl is intensifying again and is expected to make landfall as a hurricane Cat 3 along the Texas Coast. On Monday, Beryl made landfall in Grenada’s Carriacou Island as a Category 5 hurricane, ravaging the southern Caribbean Islands, flattening hundreds of buildings, and killing at least six people.
• Jamaica and multiple locations across the Caribbean, including Barbados and the Cayman Islands, suffered widespread damage after Hurricane Beryl made landfall earlier this week, with 11 deaths reported in addition to power outages, destruction of homes and buildings, coastal inundation, and emergency evacuations.

After hurricane Beryl hit the coast, it was time to leave San Antonio for the beaches on the Gulf of Mexico. The Texas coastline has 370 miles of fantastic beaches along the Gulf of Mexico.

 

5, PADRE ISLAND to NEW ORLEANS 

 

From the naturally preserved landscape of Padre Island National Seashore near Corpus Christi, and Rockport to Jamaica Beach in Galveston there are a lot of beaches and small villages to explore on our way to New Orleans.

Arriving late in Corpus Christi, unfortunately we were too late to visit the USS Lexington. The mighty USS Lexington is one of the largest surviving vessels to have served in WWII. This important aircraft carrier was launched in 1943 and now serves as a naval museum.

Padre Island consists of more than 130,000 acres of beach, dunes and grassland, and is home to rare sea turtles and many migratory birds.

The pristine landscape of the Padre Island National Seashore makes it one of the top beaches in the state because of its untouched beauty. It is the longest undeveloped barrier island in the world, and its 100 kilometres of beaches are surrounded by natural elements such as sand dunes and protected wildlife. The sand on the beach is clean, soft, and expansive, so there is plenty of room. This beach is a great place for bush camping and another place in the world were sea turtle hatchlings are released taking place from June through to August.

 

South Padre Island is known for its vibrant holiday atmosphere full of hotels and resorts.  The north end of Padre Island consists of a long beach where nature is preserved, and no development is allowed. One of the most popular activities to do when visiting the national seashore is to drive on the beach and travel down island. But be aware of the tides.

Padre Island is the second-largest island by area in the USA, after Long Island in New York on the Atlantic Coast.

Laguna Madre separates Padre Island from the Texas mainland; due to lack of circulation of seawater in and out of the lagoon and evaporation the lagoon is extremely salty.

While all the beaches along the coast have great opportunities for bush camping on the beach, we were a little disappointed with the murky water. Locals gave us mixed answers, some blaming hurricane Beryl which just passed, others told us this is an issue all around the coast till we go past New Orleans. Time will tell.

Next stop Port Aransas

The beach vibe in Port Aransas is a relaxed one, with 25 kilometres of shoreline with a community feel with a social element and lots of beach activities like volleyball, sandcastle-building competitions, and evening bonfires that are permitted on the beach. The beach is great for swimming in the gentle waves coming in from the Gulf of Mexico. BUT the second night things changed with storm force winds, high tide, and with thunder and lightning it felt like Hurricane Beryl had returned. In pouring rain, we left around midday the following day as the weather forecast for the next few days was the same, HUMID, RAIN, THUNDER and 32 degrees.

We continued beach hopping, next stop was Rockport Beach, just under 2 kilometres long but according to the locals the best beach in Texas. This beach is carefully maintained to meet environmental quality standards, which is what made it Texas’ first certified Blue Wave Beach. For those willing to pay you can also swim in the saltwater lagoon and have access to shaded pavilions, restrooms cabanas, and showers.

Enroute to Jamaica Beach we passed Houston but did not stop as in a few months we fly out of Houston on our way home and we plan to spend 2 days there before flying out. We will visit the Space Center Houston, Mission Control and Johnson Space Center.  Lots to see and learn about space exploration, upcoming missions, NASA’s latest projects, and possibly even meet an astronaut.

Overnight we stayed just before Galverston Island on the banks of the Colombia river, and we started to notice the tree damage done by Hurricane Beryl.

Our plan was to enter Galveston Island from the west, but just before the island at Freeport we were told the western part of the island was closed due the Hurricane and Tornado damage done 2 days ago. Hence this meant a 150-kilometre detour to Galveston before heading west again to Jamaica Beach, hoping it would be accessible.

It is amazing to see how fast emergency crews restore power (most power lines were down). Most damage was done by fallen trees and flying bits of roofs/windows etc. etc.

Builders are fined big time if they do not clean up before the hurricanes hit. And are made responsible for any damage done. Council is responsible for uprooted trees and house damage if this is caused by trees. Amazing that after the beach sweepers cleaned the beach and power poles were replaced and power restored, it was hard to see that the area was hit by a Hurricane and the following day a tornado, except for the destroyed houses, and flooding in low lying areas. Emergency service work 24/7 and water from the low-lying areas was being pumped out by hundreds of pumps.

Amazing that after 4 days all is back to normal.

Galveston is a coastal resort city and port in the Southeast of Texas on Galveston Island in the Gulf of Mexico with plenty to do here all year long. Unfortunately, the island is prone to many cyclones and tornadoes. Most deadly was the 1900 hurricane killing between 10 and 12000 people. In 2008 Hurricane Ike made landfall causing extensive damage to the seawall and most buildings in town with winds over 200km per hour.

Much of Galveston’s economy is centred in the tourism, cruise and shipping industries. Galveston is ranked the number one cruise port on the Gulf Coast and fourth in the United States. Galveston is also known as the “Playground of the South. Galveston is a popular tourist and cruise destination bringing over 950 million to the local economy and attracted over 6 million visitors in 2023.

The city’s tourist attractions include the Galveston Island historic pleasure pier, a downtown neighbourhood of historic buildings known as the strand, many historical museums and mansions, and miles of beach front. The city hosts many festivals such as yearly Mardi Gras Festival, Jazz & Blues Festival, Victorian-themed Christmas festival, Dickens on the strand (honouring the works of novelist Charles Dickens), Christmas Carols by candlelight, huge midnight fireworks on New Years Eve, and The Galveston Summer Musicals. The Galveston Summer Musicals is a professional summer stock theatre company performing at Galveston’s Moody Gardens. Prior to 2004, they performed at the Mary Moody Northen Amphitheatre in West Galveston Island

Galveston is home to several historic ships: the tall ship Elissa (the official Tall Ship of Texas) at the Texas Seaport Museum and Warships USS Cavalla & USS Stewart, both berthed on Pelican Island.

LOUISIANA

6. LOUISIANA NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans.

Having visited the USA many times since the mid 1970’s we had never been to New Orleans while it had been on our to do list forever.

New Orleans has a reputation for being a particularly dark city. Its battles with yellow fever, the high crime rate, and being in the direct line of many hurricanes and tornadoes it led it to accumulate one of the highest death rates in United States history.

 

New Orleans, also known as NOLA or the Big Easy, is located along the Mississippi River in the southeastern region of the state Louisiana. New Orleans is known for its music, Creole food and unique dialects, and many festivals.  The historic heart of the city is the French Quarter with its vibrant nightlife and Bourbon Street.

Hurricanes pose a severe threat to the area, and the city is particularly at risk due to its low elevation, the city is surrounded by water from the north, east, and south, and locals tell us that New Orleans is sinking.  New Orleans is the USA most vulnerable city to hurricanes.

The city has historically been very vulnerable to flooding, and it is surprising that since Hurricane Katrina in 2005 little improvements have been made to low lying elevation, poor natural drainage, and proximity to multiple bodies of water.

DELTA WORKS IN THE NETHERLANDS

The devasting floods in the Netherlands occurred in 1953 in which 1836 people died and 2070 square kilometres of land flooded. The construction of the Delta Works was now of great urgency and began in 1954 and was completed in 1986. The work consists of Dams, Sluices, Dykes, Levees, Locks, and Storm surge barriers over an area of around 200 kilometres.  The Storm surge barrier closes only when the sea-level is expected to rise 3 metres above mean sea level. Under normal conditions the estuary’s mouth is open and saltwater flows in and out with the tide.

The Delta Works have been declared one of the seven wonders of the modern world by the American society of civil Engineers.  A report by the American society of civil Engineers claims that “New Orleans is sinking. Erosion and wetland loss are huge problems along Louisiana’s coast. Large portions of New Orleans are below sea level and continue to sink”. I just wonder why none of this expertise with the Delta Works has been used in New Orleans.

New Orleans’ tourist and convention industry is an $7.5 billion industry that accounts for 40 percent of city tax revenues.

New Orleans has many visitor attractions, from the French Quarter to Magazine Street with its boutique stores and antique shops.

New Orleans is one of the top ten most-visited cities in the United States; The greater New Orleans area has a population of 1.2 million, while the city receives over 11 million visitors per year. With over 270 hotels and 40000 rooms the city is marketed as a convention, festival, and party destination.

New Orleans offers stylish boutique hotels, a great vibrant bar and entertainment scene, live music/concerts, and bands. Over 130 great festivals per year occur in New Orleans, with the big Mardi Gras in February, New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, New Orleans Voodoo Fest, Essence Music Festival, Southern Decadence, just to name a few.

The city is ranked second in the USA for friendliness, but placed near the bottom of the list when it comes to cleanliness or as a family destination. The main reason is that New Orleans rates extremely high in regard to violent crime, with nearly 300 murders in 2023.

New Orleans is a city with a rich history that beckons visitors with its vibrant culture, and the live music scene. From the Mardi Gras celebrations to the historic architecture, there is no shortage of experiences to be had in this soulful city. Among its most fascinating and hidden gem attractions are the cemeteries.

New Orleans Cemeteries

Most people in New Orleans in the past were buried above ground. When the flood season came, the water table would rise beneath the coffins, pushing them like corks out of the ground and human remains would wash away through the city streets!

Around 15 New Orleans cemeteries contain tombs built above ground. This is due to much of New Orleans actually being below the water table. The low elevation and high-water table cause frequent flooding, however alternative green solutions have been developed over time providing more sustainable options for those wishing to lay their loved ones to rest without compromising on nature’s balance or beauty.

The Garden District

The Garden District is a historic section of Uptown New Orleans lined with shady oak trees, classic New Orleans architecture and lots of shops and restaurants along the way. Bound by St. Charles Avenue, Magazine Street, Jackson Avenue and Louisiana Avenue, this little stretch of a neighborhood makes for a perfect day in New Orleans away from Bourbon street. Here, you’ll find classy streetcars, mansions and mansions turned into apartment buildings, and quirky local businesses.

STREET CARS

Streetcars are a charming and convenient way to experience the many areas of New Orleans. Four distinct lines, each originating Downtown, will take you through the French Quarter and beyond to places you might not otherwise get to see.

The 4 street cars lines are: The Charles street car line, The Canal street car line, the Riverfront street car line, and the   Rampart/Saint Claude street car line

Bourbon Street in the city’s historic French Quarter: New Orleans’ creative, laid-back spirit is active, but there is more to drinking here than downing frozen daiquiris and Hand Grenades on Bourbon Street. Drinking in New Orleans is a celebration of the local culture, discovering local beers, sipping fine wines, or nursing hand-crafted cocktails with oversized ice cubes for the slow melt and you will find a barstool or booth with your name on it in New Orleans.

We loved Bourbon Street in the city’s historic French Quarter. Mention New Orleans and Bourbon Street is the next topic of discussion. Beyond the strip clubs and t-shirt shops, the stage is set for having a fun time at dance clubs and bars with live music and karaoke. No complaining about crowds, and loud music. If that is a bother, a quiet hotel bar on Royal Street is a better fit. But if strong drinks and a party scene is in order, it does not get better than Bourbon.

Our top entertainment spots in New Orleans were: World Famous Cat’s Meow Karaoke, Saints and Sinners, Bayou Club, Honky tonk Bar, Krazy Korner, Pat O’Brien’s Courtyard Restaurant, Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar, Maison Bourbon.

A must do pub is the Jean Lafitte’s blacksmith shop bar. It is recognized as the oldest bar in the United States.  The building was built between 1722 and 1723. Functioning as a blacksmith shop by day, hence the name, the building was a base of smuggling activity by night for Jean Lafitte and his brother Pierre. The Bar still provides an experience that’s uniquely New Orleans. The bar is mostly lit by candles, and local musicians regularly lead sing-alongs at the piano bar in the back.

Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub was the most expensive Pub we visited at AUD $101.50 for 2 local beers, 1 wine and 1 gin and tonic. PFFFFFFFFF NOT INCLUDED TIP

 

 

 

Some of the best cocktails on offer in Bourbon Street are: The Hand Grenade, Sex on the Balcony, The Hurricane, Absinthe Frappe, Sazerac, Mother’s Milk, Green Monster, Burlesque Stress, and the Vieux Carré. Please Note: respect the STRONG DRINKS on Bourbon Street, so your experience ends in cheers, not tears.

Since we left San Antonio in Texas the weather has not be really kind to us. With Tornadoes, Hurricanes and now in New Orleans huge thunderstorms and local flooding, we decided to move North away from the coast to Memphis following Highway 61 made famous by Bob Dylon in his song “Highway 61 revisited in 1965”.

Leaving New Orleans we took The Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, more commonly known as The Causeway crossing lake Pontchartrain. The bridge is 38.35 km long. The Lake Pontchartrain Causeway holds the Guiness world record for the for longest continuous span over water in the world. It used to be the longest bridge over water until in 2011 the Chinese finished the Qingdao Jiaozhou Bay bridge opened.

Areas we missed due to severe weather:

1. The Barataria Preserve. The preserve has boat tours through bottomland hardwood forests, swamps, and marsh.
2. Bayou Sauvage National Wildlife Refuge. 93 square kilometres of fresh and brackish marshes located within the city limit. It is the largest urban wildlife refuge in the United States. The wildlife include waterfowl, wading birds, shorebirds, marsh rabbits, Pelicans, Alligators, and other small mammals and reptiles.

MISSISSIPPI

PART 7. MISSISSIPPI & TENNESSEE

After leaving New Orleans in the state of Louisiana we entered the state of Mississippi on our way to Memphis in Tennessee. Mississippi has the lowest per capita income in the USA and its capital city Jackson is roughly halfway New Orleans and Memphis.

We did not stay long in Mississippi as our

TENNESSEE

first stop was Memphis in Tennessee.

Tennessee, a landlocked state, shares borders with 6 States: Kentucky, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, Mississippi and Alabama.

Tennessee has 2 major rivers, the Tennessee River and the Mississippi River which forms its western border.

Tennessee has played a major role in the development of many forms of popular music, including country, blues, rock and roll, soul and gospel.

The city of Oak Ridge was established during the second world war to supply housing for the Manhattan Project (uranium enrichment facilities) for the construction of the world first atomic bombs.

 While Tennessee is far enough from the coast to avoid any direct impact from a hurricane, the state annually averages about 50 days of thunderstorms, which can be severe with large hail and damaging winds. Tornadoes are possible throughout the state, with West and Middle Tennessee the most vulnerable. The state averages 15 tornadoes annually.  

Nashville is the state’s capital, but our first visit in Tennessee was Memphis.

MEMPHIS

Memphis is the second most populated city in Tennessee (700000) after Nashville as well as the largest city bordering the Mississippi River with a wide variety in landscapes and various distinct neighbourhoods.

MEMPHIS has the largest African – American population and played a major role in the American civil rights movement. It also is the city where Dr Martin Luther King was assassinated in 1968.

Memphis is known as “Home of the Blues & the Birthplace of Rock ‘n’ Roll.

Plenty of things to do in Memphis: Elvis Presley’s Graceland, the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, the National Civil Rights museum and the Mississippi waterfront were on our list.

Downtown Memphis is also where you’ll find live music on Beale Street, with Memphis Rock and Soul Museum, Memphis Music Hall of Fame and the Blues Hall of fame all in the area. Beale Street, founded in 1841, is where many famous musicians – including B.B. King, Alberta Hunter and Isaac Hayes –got their start and today is the most iconic street in Memphis. We took our scooter, so we also visited Mud Island, Peabody Hotel (Duck Parade) and Sun Studio the site where Elvis Presley, Jerry Lee Lewis and Johnny Cash started their career.

The atmosphere on Beale Street is “buzzing,” thanks to the variety of live music that pours from the clubs stationed along the street. Beale Street also hosts a variety of festivals throughout the year. Beale Street is party central, and much like Bourbon Street in New Orleans. More than 11 million domestic and international tourists visited Memphis in 2023.

The Beale Street area is also home to several popular attractions, such as the Beale Street Flippers (athletes who perform daring flips on the street). On a sad note, on the Saturday night another shooting in Beale Street killed a person. But shootings in the USA seem to be part of life…..

Graceland, the former home of Elvis Presley, it’s one of the most famous buildings in the USA, second only to the White House in terms of annual visitors! Our tour included the bedrooms, basements and billiard rooms that are filled with rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia, the vintage cars and the honest-to-God airplane that Elvis kept near the mansion and named after his daughter. Another amazing thing about Graceland is that Elvis was laid to rest on the grounds. His grave is always decorated with fresh flowers.

It is a must see when in Memphis but the standard self-guided tour for 2 (cheapest) at $ 283 Australian Dollars ($170.00USD) is over the top!

The Sun Studio is a local legend in Memphis. Known as “the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll,” it’s where the world’s first rock song was recorded in the early 1950s Its hallways have seen everyone from Elvis Presley to Johnny Cash.We did visit the studio and saw things like the former recording booth of B.B. King and the microphone that was used by an 18-year-old Elvis to make one of his earliest hits.

The National Civil Rights Museum

the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis, housed in the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated on April 4, 1968, is filled with photos, documents, artifacts and exhibitions that showcase the long and painful struggle for equal rights in Tennessee. It is a painful but eye-opening experience. The Civil Rights Movement is an important part of USA heritage that shouldn’t be forgotten, and this Memphis Museum is dedicated to the preservation of history and the education of its visitors. We were guided through four centuries of history, and saw King’s motel room, where he spent his final hours.

We only learned about Apartheid in South Africa and for this the world boycotted South Africa. But we never boycotted the USA?  Sounds a little like negative travel advise: one shooting in Mexico or any other country in the world and travel advise goes to negative but 20 mass shootings in a weekend in the USA does not warrant a negative travel advise……..

Memphis was at the forefront of the Civil Rights Movement, especially after the assassination of Martin Luther King at a Lorraine Motel in 1968.

Rather than brushing over its ugly heritage, the city decided to use the motel as a foundation for cultural and historical education, and the Museum was built around it. Not unlike the Apartheid Museum in Soweto South Africa.

The Memphis Music Hall of Fame.

Memphis is a mecca for music lovers, it celebrates the achievements of many Memphis-born or in Memphis-living musicians, it offers photos, interviews, video performances and interactive exhibits. Everyone knows that Elvis lived in Graceland, but we did not know that Justin Timberlake was born in Memphis.

The A Schwab store is filled to the brim with kooky knickknacks that aren’t available anywhere else in the city. Don’t miss the worlds largest pair of overalls. Too much time enjoying the music resulted in and we did miss the store.

Tennessee has strict gambling laws, but as a city on the border of both Arkansas and Mississippi, Memphis has figured out several ways to get around that. Located in West Memphis, a city that technically falls outside of state lines, Southland Casino is a haven for gamblers and ramblers. You can even bet on greyhound races!

The Memphis Pyramid

At nearly 100 meters high, the Memphis Pyramid is one of the most iconic landmarks in Tennessee. During the day, its steel walls glint with sunlight from every angle; at night, it becomes a rainbow of multicolored LED lights.  .

The Pyramid on the Mississippi river is huge and offers everything from shopping to bowling or spending a few hours at the spa, there is something for every member of the family to enjoy. It is home to the tallest free-standing elevator in the country, and has impressive views of the store from the The Lookout (on 28^th store), a swanky bar and restaurant that leads to two glass-floor outdoor observation decks with panoramic views of downtown Memphis and the Mighty Mississippi.

The Peabody Hotel is well known for the Duck Parade held in the marble lobby that has been used in everything from local commercials to famous films, and its centerpiece is an ornate water fountain filled with live ducks. Every day at 11 AM and 5PM, the ducks march down the lobby of the hotel on a red carpet. Very touristy, it was not something we enjoyed.

Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum/B.B. King’s Blues Club 2 places

The Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum’s exhibition is about the birth of rock and soul music and tells the story of musical pioneers who, for the love of music, overcame racial and socio-economic barriers to create the music that shook the entire world.

Memphis is included in the lyrics of more recorded songs than any other city on the planet. The Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum released a list of more than 1000 recordings which include “Memphis” in their lyrics.

Just to name a few artist and bands: Chuck Berry, Louis Amstrong, Rod Stewart, Steppenwolf, John Fogerty, Roy Orbison, Frank Sinatra, Suzie Quatro, Bruce Springsteen, U2, Johnny Cash, Elton John, Elvis Presley, Cher, Bob Dylan, Joe Crocker and the rolling Stones.

Mud Island Park sits in the heart of the Mississippi River, a short walk from downtown Memphis. It boosts a 5,000-seat concert venue and a huge Memphis sign.

8. NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Nashville known as the music city, is the capital of the State Tennessee, located in the middle of Tennessee around 400 kilometres East of Memphis.

In the late 1950’s, Nashville became known for the Nashville Sound. The new sound broadened country music’s appeal and solidified Nashville’s status as a music recording and production centre.

In the early 1960s, Tennessee still had racial segregation of public facilities including Hotels and Restaurants.  In 1960 the Nashville student movement and the Nashville Christian leadership council organized sit inns in downtown Nashville as part of an effort to end racial segregation of public facilities.

Congress passed civil rights legislation in 1964 and 1965, but tensions continued as society was slow to change. On April 8, 1967, a riot broke out on the college campuses of Fisk University and Tennessee State University. As late as 1979 the Ku Klux Klan burnt crosses outside two African American sites in Nashville.

The music scene kept diversifying into rock and pop and other genres. Artists like Bob Dylan and Johnny Cash started to record in Nashville in the 60’s.

Rising housing prices and the economic crisis have resulted in more people being out on the streets: It has been estimated that up to 20000 Nashville people are homeless.

 

Like most parts of southern USA and Tornado alley natural disasters are a yearly occurrence and in March 2020 a tornado crossed the city killing at least 25 people and leaving tens of thousands without electricity. This was followed by another tornado the following year leaving 3 dead.

Reason we came to Nashville was to visit the area around Broadway where there is a huge range of Restaurants, Bars and Night clubs, all with live music and entertainment. Even the MacDonald around the corner where we parked our truck had live music.

The main reason we and millions of others visit Nashville year-round is its association with country music.

Downtown Nashville around Broadway offers five blocks of bars with live music and no cover charge.  Nashville together with Memphis and New Orleans are the 3 hottest destinations for the honky-tonk bars with live music. Nashville promotes the towns atmosphere with live music, restaurants, bars, many with roof top bars and entertainment to attract more residents because temporary visitors may become permanent residents.

Nashville offers 17 yearly festivals to ensure that the tourist can book ahead attending their favourite festival.

As the “home of country music”, Nashville has become a major music recording and production centre. The big three record labels, as well as numerous independent labels, have offices in Nashville. Nashville’s music industry is estimated to have a total economic impact of about $10 billion per year and to contribute about 56,000 jobs to the Nashville area. For those curious to know where Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash and Dolly Parton recorded their biggest hits there are many attractions around Broadway to visit and learn about the city’s musical past and present.

The Johnny Cash Museum showing his humble beginnings in Arkansas to his groundbreaking Folsom Prison performance to his love affair with June Carter is a fully encompassing journey of Cash and his legacy.

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is huge and located in the middle of Downtown Nashville. Thousands of artifacts, two performance theatres, and countless rotating special exhibitions. The museum’s permanent installation, Sing Me Back Home, is the evolution of country music from its roots in the nineteenth century to today’s biggest hitmakers.

The National Museum of African Music. The museum showcases more than fifty musical genres that were inspired, created, or influenced by African American culture, ranging from early American religious music to hip-hop and Rhythm and Blues.

At the grand Ole Opry you can witness the world’s longest running live radio show.  it’s the only place where country music stars of past, present, and future have shared the same stage.

Broadway Honky-Tonks

Most have a hard time staying away from Nashville’s glittering main strip lined with perennial honky-tonks bars, restaurants and rooftop bars.

We had a great time in Nashville the music city with all its Alfresco dining and great little cosy patios all with live music.

After 4 days it was time for some R &R, and we left Nashville for the drive to the Gulf Shores leaving the state of Tennessee to cross Alabama.

9. ALABAMA

Alabama is nicknamed the Yellowhammer state after the bird Yellowhammer. The state has diverse geography, from the mountains in the Tennessee Valley to the beaches near Mobile.

Montgomery is the capital city of Alabama.

Nearly 60% of the state is part of the Gulf Coastal plain, sloping towards the Mississippi river and the Gulf of Mexico.

In the last 15 years a few natural disasters have occurred in the state. In 2004 Hurricane Ivan caused over 18 billion dollars of damage and in 2011 62 tornadoes killed 238 people, wiping out many communities.

Unlike Cyclones (Hurricanes in the Northern Atmosphere) Tornadoes happen without any notice mostly during violent thunderstorms. South Alabama reports many thunderstorms. The Gulf Coast, around Mobile Bay, averages between 70 and 80 days per year with thunder reported. Alabama also has the most F5 tornadoes of any state. Alabama was devastated by the 2011 Super Outbreak which produced a record number of 62 tornadoes.

Unfortunately the weather was poor and with the chance of tornadoes we continued south and spent a few days at Bluff Springs before we entered the State of Florida.

FLORIDA

10. FLORIDA PANHANDLE to TAMPA BAY.

Unfortunately, the weather was poor and with the chance of tornadoes we continued south and spent a few days at Bluff Springs before we entered the State of Florida.

The Florida Panhandle, also known as West Florida, is the northwestern part of the state of Florida. It has close cultural links to French-influenced Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama.Tallahassee is the capital city of Florida located 1 hour north of the Big Bend area. This part of Florida is also known as the Forgotten Coast and extends from Fort Walton, Panama City, Mexico Beach till Apalachee Bay.

The Florida Panhandle is 320 km long. Much of Florida is on a peninsula between the Gulf of Mexico, the Atlantic Ocean, and the straits of Florida. Spanning two time zones, it is the only state that borders both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.

The Florida Panhandle is known for its snow-white sugar fine beaches.

After many long days enjoying New Orleans, Memphis, and Nashville it was time to relax. First stop Santa Rosa Island and Fort Pickens and with police being strict in not allowing wild camping we decided to check into Top Sail Hill State Park. This park was amazing, lots of space, greenery, great facilities and reasonable priced.

Santa Rosa Island is a 64 km barrier island. On the northern side of the island is Pensacola Bay, on the west Choctawhatchee Bay and on the east Santa Rosa sound.

Like this whole region, Santa Rosa Island has been hit by many tropical cyclones, including 5 direct hits (Hurricane Eloise, Kate, Erin, Opal and the last two in 2005, Hurricane Ivan in 2004 and Hurricane Denis in 2005, and Claudette and Ida both in 2009)

 

Florida’s nickname is the “Sunshine State”, but severe weather is a common occurrence in the state. And with yet another hurricane looming we experienced daily thunderstorms, while visiting the Florida panhandle.

Hurricanes pose a severe threat each year from June 1 to November 30. Florida is the most hurricane-prone state, with subtropical or tropical water on a lengthy coastline. Of all the Category 4 and 5 storms that have struck the United States, 83% have hit Florida or Texas. It is rare for a hurricane season to pass without any impact in Florida.

Hurricane Andrew caused more than $25 billion in damages when it struck during August 1992 and became the second costliest weather disaster in Florida.

After a great 4 days at the Topsail Hill State Park, we looked forward to our next destination St George Island. This is another beautiful 40-kilometre barrier island in the Gulf of Mexico with lots of unspoiled, uncrowded beaches and breathtaking sugar white sand beaches with blue water.

Enroute, we did some stocking up in Panama City the largest city in the Pan Handle with a population of just over 34000. Due to its location on the Gulf Coast, Panama City is susceptible to tropical cyclones and in 2018 was directly hit by Hurricane Micheal making landfall as a category 5 hurricane with wind speeds up to 260 kilometer per hour. Panama City is also no stranger to tornadoes. This year by an EF3 tornado on January 9, 2024, and an EF2 tornado in March 2022.

Because of the city’s position on St Andrews Bay, bridges are especially important to the area, and most directions into or out of the city require the use of one of three large bridges to cross parts of the bay. These are the Bailey Bridge to the north on Hwy 77, the Dupont Bridge to the south on Hwy 98 and the Hathaway Bridge to the west on Hwy 98. The largest of these is the Hathaway Bridge, which is the only direct connection between Panama City and Panama City Beach.

Following the coast eastwards, we arrived at a small hamlet called Mexico Beach

Mexico Beach became a village in 1967.

Before Hurricane Michael, the town was a boutique village also called old Florida, a collection of 50-year-old bungalows, old trees, holiday homes on stilts, where tourists walked on sugar white sandy beaches.

On November 22, 1985, Hurricane Kate passed over Mexico Beach. The fierce winds and high tides destroyed beachfront homes and businesses.

33 years later Hurricane Michael’s eye pasted over Mexico Beach, and the village was wiped out. All homes were destroyed and the community was referred to as “ground zero”.

The elementary school and city hall were among the buildings devastated; the pier washed away, and the water tower was knocked down and wiped Mexico Beach of the map. It also caused extensive damage to the nearby Tyndal Air Force Base.

Before we crossed the 7 kilometer bridge to St George Island we visited Apalachicola  on Apalachicola Bay at the mouth of the Apalachicola River.

Apalachicola is still the home port for a variety of seafood workers, schrimpers and recreational fishing. More than 90% of Florida’s oyster production was harvested from Apalachicola Bay in past years. Today the oyster industry has completely collapsed due to lack of water flow in the Apalachicola River. However, the yearly Florida Seafood festival is still being held.

 

Our next stop was St. George Island a beautiful 35-kilometer barrier island in the Gulf of Mexico. Home to the most unspoiled, serene beaches and great beach camping. St. George Island’s pristine bay marshes offer lots of wildlife and stunning views of the sunset. The residential part of the island has luxurious Gulf-front homes and amazing 5-star luxury small boutique hotels.

Unfortunately for us we were evacuated from the island due to the upcoming Hurricane Debbie. We left the island and decided to ride out the hurricane in Ocala at the Cracker Barrel carpark with torrential rain and some wind during the night. Major flooding all around us, hence we decided to continue further south to Tampa.

Tampa is a city on the West Coast of Florida. It is located on Tampa Bay and the third largest city in Florida. Our plan was to stay at Hillsborough River State Park but the remmants of hurricane Debbie had the park flooded so another night in a carpark, this time the Walmart carpark. No cruise ships in town due to the hurricane and we were lucky that the De Soto National Park re opened and found a nice waterfront spot for our truck.

With miles of serene, sandy shoreline, this much-loved county park covers five islands and 1,136 acres on the Gulf of Mexico and Tampa Bay. Unfortunately, De Soto beach named America’s top beach in 2009 by trip adviser, did get a hammering, but the sun came out and we enjoyed the abundance of natural beauty as far as the eye can see. De Soto Park consists of five interconnected islands (keys). These keys are home to mangroves, wetlands, palm hammocks, hardwoods, and lots of native plants.

Fort Myers situated at the coast of South West Florida, has a little bit of everything, Nature reserves, beaches, Beach bars, lots of beachfront dining and fresh seafood.

The waterways surrounding Fort Myers and the islands are amazing places to visit.  A must do are Sanibel captiva Island with long stretches of white sandy beaches and lots of wildlife

11.  FT MYERS to THE EVERGLADES

Enroute to the Everglades we stopped in beautiful Naples, not far south of Fort Myers. Naples is in southwest Florida between Miami to the East and Fort Myers to the North. It is known for its high-end shopping, sophisticated dining, and the outdoors. Fifth, South and Third street are the 3 main high end shopping streets in the historic downtown area, with numerous art galleries, chic clothing boutiques, and home decor shops.

The city is mostly known for its high-priced homes, white-sand beaches, and numerous golf courses. Naples is the self-titled “Golf Capital of the World”, as it has the second most holes per capita out of all communities. The city is also known for being appealing to the wealthier retirees, and a large percent of the population is made up of them.

The numerous canals and waterfront homes add a distinctive feature to the south portion of Naples and provide access to the Gulf of Mexico for many homeowners.

74 Hurricanes have passed the area around Naples, one at least every 2 years. The worse once were Hurricane Ian 2022, Irma 2017, and Wilma 2005, all Cat 5 hurricanes and responsible for over 1000 billion worth of damage and 366 deaths.

Hurricane Ian 2022 (Category 5) – Ian had a maximum wind strength 260 km/h, caused 149 deaths in the state of Florida and an estimated $989 million in damages to the city of Naples.

Hurricane Irma 2017 (Category 5)- Irma had a maximum wind strength of 290 km/h, caused 134 deaths and $50 billion in damage.

Hurricane Wilma 2005- Wilma had a maximum wind strength of 300 km/h and was responsible for 83 deaths and 22 billion dollars word of damage.

In the same area lies Marco Island with millions of acres of Federal and State Parks.

Part coastal resort, part fishing village, Marco Island is the largest and only developed island of Florida’s famed Ten Thousand Islands and offers a unique immersion into this unspoiled natural area with access to the Gulf of Mexico and island estuaries.

THE EVERGLADES

Having visited many swamp areas during our around the world trip, including the Amazone region in far Northern Brazil, French Guyana, Suriname, Guyana, the Okavango Delta in Botswana in Africa, the Mekong Delta in Cambodia and Laos, the Wetlands of Iberia National Park in Argentina, and the Pantanal in Western Brazil, we were looking forward to visiting the Everglades, also called the Amazon region of the USA.  I am not so sure if you could compare those 2.

The Everglades is the USA’s largest subtropical wilderness. Everglades National Park protects an unparalleled landscape that provides important habitat for numerous rare and endangered species like the Manatee, the American Crocodile, and the elusive Florida Panther. This subtropical saw grass marsh region is a river of grass up to 75kilometers wide but mostly just 30 centimetres deep. Water moves southward to the Mangrove swamps on the Gulf of Mexico, but on the east, it reaches as far as the outskirts of Miami. On the Westside it merges into the Big Cypress Swamp area.

Everglades National Park became a designated World Heritage site in 1979.

The Big Cypress Swamp is where we spent our first couple of nights. It is a large forest swamp covering over 6000 sq kilometres of land, around 100 kilometres south of Fort Myers. The area provides a habitat for endangered species like the Florida cougar.

The weather has not been really kind to us, but we cannot complain as we were aware of the 2 seasons in the area. Dry and Wet exactly.

We had rain and huge thunderstorms every day with temperatures around the 38 degrees C. So far, we had to deal with Tornado warnings, 2 Hurricanes (Beryl and Debbie) and it looks like Hurricane Ernesto is forming as we are ready to start exploring the Florida Keys.

12. THE EVERGLADES to THE FLORIDA KEYS.

The Florida Keys are a chain of coral and limestone islands curving southwest from Virginia Key south of Miami to Loggerhead Key at the Dry Tortugas in the Gulf of Mexico 355 kilometres further south and are surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico on the western side and the Atlantic Ocean to the eastern side.

The Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary contains the world’s third-largest barrier reef and the only barrier reef in the continental U.S.A, and it is home to more than 6,000 species of animals.

One of America’s most unique motor journeys, the scenic 190-kilometre Overseas Highway often referred to as the “Highway that Goes to Sea”, combines ocean views and includes 42 bridges running from the mainland to Key West, connects all the main islands and is one of the longest overwater roads in the world, including a bridge that spans 11-km. The highway was built in 1938.

Hurricane Ernesto is not far away

Each region of the Keys has its own unique character, worlds away from big cities and theme parks.

The Florida Keys are home to a wide variety of plant and animal life. Mangroves, sea grasses, and coral reefs are abundant. Animals such as alligators, sea turtles, and the endangered manatee can be found here, and more than 600 species of fish live in the reefs. After the beaches in the Florida Panhandle and the Western Florida Coast we were disappointed by the beaches at Key west.

Key Largo, is the largest Key about 50 km long and formerly known for its plantations of key limes. We camped at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, which contains large living coral formations, and is the first undersea park in the USA.

Many of the Florida Keys fall within the boundaries of three National Parks: Biscayne National Park, Dry Tortugas National Park, and Everglades National Park.

Biscayne National Park is an area of coral reefs and other marine features in the Atlantic Ocean off the southeastern coast of Florida, about 32 km south of Miami. It consists of (from west to east) a mangrove-covered shoreline and about 33 Islands (keys) that form a north-south chain separating the bay from the Atlantic Ocean. The shoreline is covered by an almost unbroken, impenetrable mangrove swamp which provides shelter for birds, mammals, and marine life.

In the Atlantic Ocean to the east of John Pennekamp lie the shallow reefs known for both their variety of corals—elkhorn, brain, and staghorn—and their brilliantly coloured tropical fishes.

Dry Tortugas are the last seven in a long string of coral islands (keys) and sandbars that extend westward from Key West. This part of the keys can only be reached by boat or seaplane. Its waters contain abundant and varied marine life, including three species of sea turtles.

As mentioned before, we disliked the beaches as they were full of stinking seagrass. We booked at Bahia Honda State Park mentioned as the best beach on the Florida Keys, but we were disappointed. However, the sunsets were amazing.

The keys are an oasis of islands with intriguing names such as Summerland Key, Big Torch and Little Torch Keys, Cudjoe Key, Sugarloaf Key, Big Cop Pitt Key and Stock Island.

Big Pine Key is the jumping off point for numerous snorkel and dive excursions to the 210-foot wreck of the Adolphus Busch.

Looe Key Reef, part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, has a yearly underwater music festival that promotes the preservation of Keys coral reefs.

The uninhabited Saddle Bunch Keys are a network of shallow sandy lagoons and mangrove islands that make the jaunt by boat or paddle craft a memorable one, especially at sunset.

Stock Island is defined by a rustic authenticity that flavors its colourful marinas, art studios and waterfront bars and restaurants. It is the hub of the Florida Keys commercial shrimping industry.

 

Key West, the cruise hot spot in the lower keys, is also the end of the Florida Keys Overseas Highway. This 19^th century town has a laid-back atmosphere with palm shaded streets, picturesque streets, historic homes, the home of Ernest Hemmingway and the holiday home of former US President Harry Truman, a multiculture culinary scene, nightly sunset celebration, and a flourishing nightlife.

After 8 days on the Florida Keys, it was time to explore the East Coast of Florida.

 

13. FLORIDA KEYS to CAPE CANAVERAL  

After leaving Key Biscayne our first stop was Miami, population nearly 6.5 million. Miami is the second most populous city in Florida after Jacksonville. It has the third largest skyline in the USA with over 300 high rises.  More than 60 exceed 150 meters. It is also nicknamed the “Capital of Latin America” because of its high population of Spanish-speakers.

Having been to Miami on various occasions this time we did not spend a lot of time in Miami.

Miami has sometimes been called the “Gateway to Latin America” because of the magnitude of its commercial and cultural ties to Latin America.

After Fidel Castro rose to power in Cuba following the Revolution in 1959, many wealthy Cubans sought refuge in Miami, further increasing the city’s population.

Miami is the second-largest U.S. city with a Spanish-speaking majority (after El Paso in Texas), and the largest city with a Cuban/American background.

The Port of Miami is the world’s largest cruise ship port and passenger port in the world; It also is home to the headquarters for many of the world’s largest cruise companies.

The port is one of the USA busiest cargo ports, importing 11,000.000 tons of cargo. Miami served over 7 million cruise passengers in 2023.

Tourism is one of the Miami’s largest private-sector industries, accounting for more than 144,800 jobs. Miami Beach is the cities playground, a mix of art deco, Mediterranean and modern structures and an endless list of hotels, bars, restaurants, roof top bars, nightclubs, discotheques, retail, souvenirs shops and amusement.

The city’s frequent portrayal in music, film, and popular culture has made the city and its landmarks recognizable worldwide. In 2023 it attracted the second-highest number of foreign tourists of any city in the United States, after New York City, and is among the top 20 cities worldwide by international visitor spending. More than 19 million visitors arrived in Miami in 2023 adding $33 billion to the economy. With a large hotel infrastructure and the newly renovated Convention centre, Miami is a popular destination for annual conventions and conferences.

Following the road north we passed Palm Beach. Palm Beach’s reputation as a playground for the wealthy persists too. The affluence is palpable along Worth Avenue, where fine art, labels like Cartier and Chanel and established restaurants, bars and night clubs grace Mediterranean storefronts and courtyards.

Only 50 Kilometres north of Maimi lies Fort Lauderdale. It is seen as part of the Miami metropolitan area. With over 300 kilometres of inland waterways, it is also called the Venice of America. Fort Lauderdale has the third largest cruise port in the world. (Port Everglades) With over 50,000 registered yachts and 100 marinas, Fort Lauderdale is also known as the yachting capital of the world. The area has over 15 million overnight visitors in 2023 (2 million more than before Covid) and nearly 5 million cruise passengers.

Fort Lauderdale has become synonymous with luxury – resorts, yachts, and dream homes and the beaches on the Atlantic Ocean. Fort Lauderdale’s beachfront promenade is full of bars and restaurants, entertainment, events and retail shops. The Intracoastal Waterway is responsible for and a Venetian-like canal system where water taxis and, even, gondolas run.

Like in other parts of the USA discrimination or Apartheid was also around in Fort Lauderdale. Till 1961 only whites were allowed on Ft. Lauderdale beaches. There were no beaches for African Americans in the Fort Lauderdale area until 1954, when “the Coloured Beach,” (now named Johnston State Park), was opened at Dania Beach. However, no road was built to it until 1965. On July 4, 1961, African Americans started a series of wade-ins as protests at beaches that were off-limits to them, to protest “the failure of the county to build a road to the Negro beach. On July 11, 1962, the city’s policy of racial segregation of public beaches, and Broward County beaches ended.

Further north we crossed Hollywood with its 5 kilometres of boardwalks and within 1 kilometre from the vibrant boardwalk you can walk, canoe or kayak through the mangroves. Hollywood has a historic downtown, with lots of sidewalk cafes, galleries, and Art.

1975 was our last visit to Cape Canaveral and the Kennedy Space centre, time for a second visit. Today over 5 million passengers cruise from its port annually, making it one of the world’s busiest. But this is also one of Florida’s most nature-adoring beach communities, with 3 parks. One of them, Jetty Park is where we stayed for a few days, it features a well-equipped 24-hour fishing pier; free, public boat ramps; camping; and a life-guarded beach for swimming. In season, right whales, and manatees glide by, and sea turtle’s nest. We watched the cruise liners come and go. There is a waterfront leisure area at Port Canaveral, where bars, restaurants for all budgets serve great food, drinks and entertainment afternoons and nights 7 days a week; most nights you have a choice of live music, comedy, or karaoke.

Nearby is Cocoa Beach, “Surf” being the word in this village with beachy locales. Cocoa Beach’s Ron Jon Surf Shop is open 24 hours a day all year round and the town’s Easter Surf Festival is one of the longest-running events in the U.S.

Kennedy Space Centre.

This is one of 10 NASA field centres, a premier multiuser spaceport with more than 90 private-sector partners and nearly 250 partnership agreements. The presence of commercial companies at NASA’s Kennedy Space Center is larger than ever before. The centre also is home to facilities that research and develop innovative solutions that commercial space ventures need for working and living on the surfaces of the Moon and other bodies in our solar system.

The Kennedy Space Centre Visitor Complex is the visitor centre at NASA Space Centre.  It features exhibits and displays, historic spacecraft and memorabilia, 2 large IMAX theatres, and a range of bus tours of the spaceport. The “Space Shuttle Atlantis” exhibit has the Atlantis orbiter and the Shuttle Launch simulator, where we had a simulated ride into space. The centre also provides astronaut training experiences, including a Mars Base simulator. We were lucky due to poor weather in the area it was quiet the day we visited (Kennedy Space Centre attracts around 4 million people a year.)

The complex had its beginning in 1963. An estimated 100,000 visitors went through that first year. By 1964, more than 250,000 self-guided car tours, permitted between 1 and 4 pm were seen at Kennedy Space Center (KSC). In 1965 $2 million was spend on a full-scale visitor centre, covering 42 acres. Spaceport USA attracted 500,000 visitors in 1967, its first year, and one million by 1969. Ten-thousand visitors toured the centre on December 24, 1968, following the Apollo 8 orbit of the Moon.

As NASA neared the Moon, popularity grew. By 1969, the visitor centre was the second most visited Florida attraction, behind Tampa’s Busch Gardens.

Between 1995 and 2007, the visitors centre went through many changes, including the improvement of restaurants, retail shops, buses, and new exhibits. It is also when the visitor complex got its current name, Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. Since then, the facility has been entirely self-supporting and receives no taxpayer or government funding.

In 2013 The Space shuttle Atlantis went on display offering a 360° view of the shuttle. Atlantis is positioned at a 43.21° angle with the payload bay doors open: a view only previously seen in space. The exhibit also includes a life-sized replica of the Hubble Space Telescope.

On the ground level is the “Forever Remembered” exhibit, commemorating the 14 astronauts lost in both Space Shuttle Challenger and Space Shuttle Columbia disasters. The area also includes personal artifacts from the astronauts, two recovered pieces of the Shuttles, footage of the physical and emotional recovery, and the return to flight.

In all it was an amazing experience, and after a few more days of R & R at Jetty Park we headed north towards Daytona Beach.

14. CAPE CANAVERAL to FLORIDA PANHANDLE. 

Before leaving Cape Canaveral, we visited Manatee Sanctuary Park, 10 acres of riverfront beauty. Situated on the Banana River, which serves as a protected Manatee habitat, manatees come and feed off the sea grass along the boardwalk.

After leaving Cape Canaveral we were off to Daytona Beach famous as the “World Center of Racing” and home of NASCAR and the Daytona International Speedway.  Also, well known for the beaches, motorsport, shopping, nightlife golfing and other sporting events. We followed the A1A scenic highway north.

Unfortunately for us the iconic “World’s Most Famous Beach” sign was removed due to beach access works. You’ll find endless entertainment at the Ocean Walk Shoppes Bars and Restaurants including street entertainers, Screamers Park with its slingshot propels you 120 meters in the air at a speed of 120km per hour, hence the name Screamers Park.  However, the wide 37 km stretch of white sandy beach is still the biggest attraction here, with over 8 million visitors flocking to the area every year.

After Hurricane Ernesto passed a lot of beaches had eroded but locals assured us it will be back in a month as council uses beach sweepers to clear and level the beach.

Daytona Beach is dominated by motorsports and Daytona International Speedway. The main artery that passes by the racetrack is renamed now to International Speedway Boulevard. This NASCAR superspeedway has a seating capacity for 168,000 spectators. It hosts motor vehicle races of various kinds, including stock cars, sports cars, modified pickup trucks, motorcycles (on and off road), and go-karts. The facility also includes a road course and an infield, including Lake Lloyd, which has hosted powerboat racing.

The Daytona 500 race is known around the world and the week leading up to the race has many other events. The Rolex 24-hour race of Daytona, The Lucas Oil 200, Bush Clash 75 lap race, and NextEra Energy 250 World Truck Series. Other well-known races are the Coke zero race, Daytona 200, Brumos Porsche 250, Coca Cola Firecracker 250, Bike week, and Biketoberfest. It is amazing what Daytona has to offer and all supported by great shopping malls, bars, restaurants, 4- and 5-star hotels, gift shops, rooftop bars with live entertainment, souvenir & gift shops, antique shops, restaurants, nightclubs, and beach clubs.

From Daytona we travelled further north along the beach towards St Augustine and Jacksonville.

St Augustine is the USA oldest continuously settled city and was founded in 1565. The Historic Downtown is the oldest part of the city with many buildings dating back to the 1700s — and with streets that have existed from long before that. This walkable city looks like a European city designed in the 1800’s. The Ancient City boasts attractions such as military forts, stately castles, a spiralling lighthouse, the Oldest Wooden School House, and the unique Minorcan homestead of Juan Genopoly, established in the late 1700’s.

Jacksonville boasts a modern skyline of downtown condominiums and corporate towers. The Jacksonville beaches consist of 3 suburbs: Atlantic Beach, Neptune Beach, and Jacksonville Beach. We followed the coast road to Amelia Island, an amazing State Park. But like everywhere in Florida booking online seems to be impossible as most always show fully booked (most are not, due to many cancellations and no shows.) We passed Little and Big Talbot Island and Fernadina Beach, home to many exclusive homes. Driving past, as we had no luck with a camp site in any of the State Parks, we continued North of Jacksonville and found a spot in the bush north of Jacksonville.

By now we finished following the scenic highway SR A1A which we had been following since Key West for around 550 kilometres to just south of Fernandina on Amelia Island.  R A1A is heavily associated with Florida beach culture and is known for its lush tropical and sub-tropical scenery and ocean vistas. In many places, the highway runs directly along the waterfront of the Atlantic Ocean.

After 6 months of exploring the Southern Part of the USA it was time to plan our trip home, and we returned to Panama City Beach in the Florida Pan Handle. We were here a month ago and loved this area with its amazing beaches. Hurricane Debbie did some damage, but life is back to normal.

Arriving back in Panama City a resort town in the Florida Panhandle, we parked our truck in St Andrews State Park to prepare our truck for storage. The park has amazing beaches and is surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico and St Andrews Bay. the Florida Panhandle on the Gulf of Mexico and is home to stunning sugar-white sandy beaches, and emerald, green water.

Shell Island is a 12-kilometre undeveloped island and is home to a variety of Florida wildlife, such as deer, ghost crabs, and sea turtles. And around the island lives a pod of bottlenose dolphins.

The locals like everywhere else in the United States are super friendly and helpful. Amy and Patrick, fellow travellers living in DeFuniak Springs, allowed us to park our truck on their property until we return end of February or early March 2025.

With another Hurricane looming our flight to Houston was diverted around Hurricane Francine. it was unfortunate that while in Houston the weather was poor hence pictures taken in Houston are not ours.

Houston is the most populated city in Texas. Houston is known for the Texas Medical centre which is the largest medical centre in the world employing 120000 people, and home for the Mission Control Centre at NASA Johnson Space Centre.

Oil and gas have continued to fuel Houston’s economic growth, with major oil companies including Exxon Mobile, Halliburton, Conoco, Philips 66, and Occidental Petroleum.

Houston’s entertainment and theatre district is huge. 17 blocks packed with entertainment, restaurants, movies, plaza’s, live music, a cinema, and parks. Bayou place has a multilevel building.

VIDEO

1. SOUTHERN USA COMPILATION 2024/2025  (UNDER CONSTRUCTION)

2.  NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

3. NEW MEXICO (Route 66)

4. TEXAS ( ROUTE 66)

 5.  NEW MEXICO to TEXAS Via White Sands NP, Carlsberg Caverns NP, San Anthonio, Galverstone and Hurricane Beryl

 6. NEW ORLEANS

7. MEMPHIS

8. NASHVILLE TO ALABAMA

 9. FLORIDA PANHANDLE to FORT MYERS

10. Fort Myers to Everglades National Park

11.  Everglades National Park to Key West

12. KEY WEST to FLORIDA PANHANDLE via the East Coast

1.  SOUTHERN USA COMPILATION 2024/2025 (UNDER CONSTRUCTION)

 

2. NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

PART 3 NEW MEXICO (ROUTE 66)

PART 4 TEXAS ROUTE 66

5.  NEW MEXICO to TEXAS Via White Sands NP,Carlsberg Caverns NP, San Anthonio, Galverstone and Hurricane Beryl

6. NEW ORLEANS

7. MEMPHIS

PART 8 NASHVILLE to ALABAMA

9. FLORIDA PANHANDLE to FORT MYERS

10. FORT MYERS to EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK

11. EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK to KEY WEST

12.  KEY WEST to FLORIDA PAN HANDLE, via the East Coast

Time to board our plane for our flight home. We will be returning to the USA in February/March 2025, to continue to explore the East Coast of the USA.