WESTERN UNITED STATES
2023-2024
CALIFORNIA, OREGON, WASHINGTON, IDAHO, MONTANA, WYOMING, UTAH, NEVADA, ARIZONA,
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GENERAL INFORMATION
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BLOGS 2023
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BLOGS 2024
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VIDEO CLIPS; under construction
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GENERAL INFORMATION,
After 2 years Mexico, we entered the USA from the Mexicali Border. We explored the Western USA for 6 Months following the coast North to the Canadian Border before heading inland to the Dakota’s.
The West, as the most recently settled part of the United States, is often known for broad highways and freeways and open space.
The Western U.S. covers nearly half the land area of the contiguous United States. It is also the most geographically diverse, regions with temperate rainforest in the far Northwest, The Rocky Mountains. The Cascade Range, The Sierra Nevada, The great plains, and deserts such as the Mojave. Great basin and Sonoran
During our 6 months of travel, we visited. California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and Arizona
The West also is home to most of the Native Americans who are living in the large reservations. the
Wildlife in the Western USA ranges from the raccoon, Mountain Lions, mule deer, cougars, coyotes, white tailed antelope, American Black Bear, brown bears, grizzle Bears, rattle snakes and Jaguars.
While Los Angeles has the largest population of Mexicans outside Mexico, San Francisco has the largest Chinese community in the United States, and the largest Gay community.
But most states in Central and Southern United States have large Hispanic populations.
2. BLOGS 2023
California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Arizona
PART 1 CALIFORNIA MEXICO BORDER TO BIG SUR NATIONAL PARK
PART 2 CALIFORNIA SAN FRANCISCO
PART 3 CALIFORNIA SAN FRANCISCO TO HUMBOLD STATE PARK
PART 4. CALIFORNIA NORTH COAST to OREGON CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK .
PART 5. OREGON CRATER NATIONAL PARK to PORTLAND .
PART 6. OREGON PORTLAND to PENDLETON
PART 7. OREGON PENDLETON TO REDMOND
PART 8. WASHINGTON PORTLAND TO THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS
PART 9. WASHINGTON & IDAHO CASCADE NATIONAL PARK to GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
PART 10. MONTANA GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
PART 11. MONTANA GLACIER NATIONAL PARK TO BEAR TOOTH RANGES
PART 12 WYOMING, IDAHO, MONTANA. YELLOWSTONE & TETON NATIONAL PARK.
PART 13 MONTANA, WYOMING. YELLOWSTONE & TETON NATIONAL PARK to MOUNT RUSHMORE. (SOUTH DAKOTA)
PART.14 UTAH (entering from Colorado) EXPLORING ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK & FOUR CORNER COUNTRY
PART 15, UTAH Corner Country to Zion National Park
PART 16, UTAH ZION NATIONAL PARK to BONNEVILLE RACETRACK
PART 17, UTAH, CALIFORNIA. WINNAMUCCA to MAMMOTH LAKES
PART 18, CALIFORNIA, NEVADA, ARIZONA. MAMMOTH LAKES to PHOENIX Under Construction
2024
California, Nevada, Arizona
PART 19 ARIZONA PHOENIX to BORDER NEW MEXICO (ROUTE 66)
PART 20. NEVADA BORDER NEW MEXICO to LAKE MEAD
PART 21 NEVADA LAS VEGAS TO LAUGHLIN
PART 22 ARIZONA GRAND CANYON
PART 23 ARIZONA GRAND CANYON to FLAGSTAFF
PART 24 ARIZONA CALIFORNIA FLAGSTAFF to MEXICAN BORDER
PART 25 ARIZONA Mexican Border to Tucson.
CALIFORNIA
PART 1. MEXICO BORDER to BIG SUR NATIONAL PARK.
After the debacle to get our US visa, 6 months wait for an interview and a $3000.00 round trip & accommodation to Sydney for a 3-minute interview PFFFFFFFF, crossing the border at Mexicali was straight forward and the border guards were friendly. All up the crossing took just over 1 hour. (Pretty lengthy line). The customs officer made us laugh as he could not understand we drive around the world (he thought it was a MAD MAX VEHICLE!!!!). He wanted to know how we were able to get it from Australia, we told him it could float.
Having a complete self-sufficient overland vehicle, we see no reason to pay between $50 and $ 100USD per night to stay in full hook up trailer spot or RV parks. Hence, we camp in the wild, at rest stops, casino carparks, or BLM land.
Shopping done and our first bush camp was in the hills overlooking Lake Saldon. Lake Saldon is California’s largest lake in the middle of California’s largest desert and is a must-see for anyone visiting Southern California.
California has 3 deserts, The Mojave Desert, Colorado Desert and the Great Basin Desert. The deserts are a popular tourist destination and offer amazing natural features. The driest spot in California is the Death Valley.
Joshua Tree National Park’s western side is part of the Mojave Desert, the Eastern side is part of the Colorado Desert.
At night we did hear the Coyote but never saw one, likewise the desert tortoise and the bighorn sheep. But with 42 degrees Celsius it would be unlikely they would venture out. Key’s view is well over 1500 meters high and offers magnificent views when not hazy. The Joshua Tree, The Ocotillo plant, amazing rock formations and scenery were the highlights of this park.
There are 2 villages just outside Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree, and 29 Palms. Both towns are small, BUT with Los Angeles so close by the area draws over 2 million visitors per year. Joshua Tree and 29 Palms are both unique desert towns.
On day one we visited the western side of the park and ended up in the city of Twentynine Palms home to the Joshua Tree National Park Headquarters and the Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center, the world’s largest Marine Corps training base. More than 20000 active-duty marines and families live here and 50000 active-duty marines from around the world train here as well..
Of all the towns in the desert area surrounding Joshua Tree National Park, Palm Springs is the upmarket resort town just 160 KM east of Los Angeles. Also called the Playground of the stars. Despite being a small city, it has the amenities of a cosmopolitan big city. Palm Springs has some of the most famous golf courses in the world. There are amazing views of the 3300-meter-high San Jacinto Peak, and the world largest rotating cable car goes to around 3000 meters. Palm Springs is one of nine adjacent cities that make up the Coachella Valley, Cathedral City, Indian Wells, Indio, La Quinta, Palm Desert and Rancho Mirage. The small boutique villages offer many events throughout the year, Music Festival, Country Fair, Film Festivals, National Date Festival, Desert Classic Golf tournaments and Tennis tournaments.
Time to move towards the coast. The Coachella Valley connects with Los Angeles via the San Gorgonio Pass a busy up to 6 lane highway. We decided to stay overnight at the Morongo Casino, where we could park at the rear and the shuttle bus picked us up from the carpark to the casino and back.
Los Angeles is the second most populous city in the USA after New York. Having been to Los Angeles many times over the last 45 years we did not spend a lot of time in town however the city does deserve a write up. The city is located between the coast (low land) and the mountains.
The freeways of Los Angeles are known all around the world connecting downtown and the suburbs with 6 or 7 lanes in each direction.
The major attractions are Hollywood, Beverley hills, Anaheim (Disney World) Venice Beach, and Malibu.
Downtown Los Angeles has as many as 35000 people per sq kilometre. During the week you can listen to the radio and hear 20 or more different languages. You have the choice of more than 50 foreign language newspapers. Critics refer to Los Angeles as “la-la land” or even worse as a place reeling from earthquakes, fire, smog, gang warfare, and riots. Those who love Los Angeles mention its mild climate, entertainment, and lifestyle.
We were looking for new tyres but no luck, the weather was lousy hence we left after 3 days and headed North to Big Sur National Park, Monterey, and Santa Cruz. (Hwy 101 was closed due a landslide North of Santa Barbara so we had to detour via Highway 5 to get to Big Sur NP).
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz is a city on central California’s coast on the northern edge of Monterey Bay. Its long wharf, with eateries and shops, stretches into Monterey Bay. It is famous for its Boardwalk’s and the vintage rides include the 1911 Looff Carousel and the Giant Dipper roller coaster. Also known for its beaches and beach volleyball competitions. In fact, it is a classic California beach town. Unfortunately for us it was cold and with just 17 degrees we hoped for a much warmer California. Due to its proximity to the Bay, fog and overcast mornings is what we experienced during the night and morning hours, clearing around the middle of the day. Santa Cruz attracts many street performers, musicians, and artists, creating street side entertainment and atmosphere.
Monterey
Next stop Monterey; we found a nice quite stop between the golf course and the cemetery, a couple of hundred meters of the beach and the John Denver memorial. Monterey is a city on California’s rugged central coast. Monterey is famous is Monterey Bay Aquarium, with thousands of marine animals and plants on display in underwater and interactive exhibits. Like Santa Cruz Monterey is a vibrant coastal town with many events during the year. Next to the city is a National marine Sanctuary which is a federal protected ocean area with a coastline of 444KM.
Both towns have many celebrities living here, hence it is not the cheapest place to live and do shopping.
Next and last stop before we are moving north to San Francisco was Big Sur National Park. Following the 101 south from Carmel was amazing with cliffs plunging a few hundred meters down to rocky coves. It is rugged and mountainous, offering great scenery. Unfortunately, we were only able to drive the 32 miles south from Carmel due to the landslide. However, if you can drive the complete 144 miles from Malpaso Creek to the village of San Simeon we are told you can say you have travelled the longest most scenic underdeveloped coastline in the USA. The views are amazing and getting to Big Sur Village you see the brilliant redwood forest. Big Sur National Park attracts up to 7 million visitors per year. This has started discussions re the necessity of shuttle buses and tollgates. The other major issue is that the highway has been blocked more than 55 times by landslides.
PART 2. SAN FRANCISCO
After camping on the beach just south of San Francisco, we decided to drive into San Francisco on Sunday Morning, less traffic and hopefully great video and pictures while crossing the Golden Gate Bridge to the Golden Gate Vista Point carpark and our overnight stop. BUT on Sundays and Public Holidays the Vista Point is closed. PFFFFF so we decided to continue north to our Tyre Dealer (90KM out of San Francisco)
Returning to San Francisco via the double decker Bay Bridge in the eastern part of the city we decided to have another go the next day at staying overnight at the Vista Point Carpark overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and the City of San Francisco, and another eastward crossing of the amazing Golden Gate Bridge. The Vista Point viewpoint became our overnight spot.
San Francisco is with around 810000 residents the fourth most populous city in California. But it is ranked number one in the USA based on per capita income. San Francisco is also called Frisco, Fog City or San Fran. One of the top tourist destinations in the United States, San Francisco is known for its steep streets, Golden Gate Bridge, Cable Cars, China Town, and Alcatraz.
The world-renowned Golden Gate Bridge is easily identified by its International Orange colour. Once it was called “the bridge that could not be build”, today it is one of the seven wonders of the world. Building of the bridge started in 1933 and the bridge was opened in 1937. 2.7 kilometres long and to support the suspended roadway 2 cables of 2.5 kilometres long each holding 64000 kilometres of steel wire; each are anchored in concrete on the shore.
San Francisco has more than 50 hills within the city limits. A few neighbourhoods are named after the hills like Nob Hill, Potrero Hill and Russian Hill with its famous Crooked Lombard Street also known as Zig Zag Street. However most visitors miss the reel steep streets such as Bradford Street. With a grade of 41% it felt like we were back in Bolivia (La Paz where we got lost and had to negotiate a 40plus grade street with our truck) or Filbert and 22nd street with a grade of 31%.
The small island of Alcatraz is just 2 kilometres offshore from San Francisco. The island was developed with a lighthouse and a Military prison. In 1934, the island became a federal prison named Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary. The freezing temperatures made escape from Alcatraz nearly impossible, Alcatraz became one of the most known prisons in the USA. Alcatraz closed in 1963 Today Alcatraz is a major tourist attraction.
Alcatraz had some of the most notorious criminals in American history including Al Capone, Robert stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz”), George Machine Man Kelly and many more
During its 29 years of operation A total of 36 prisoners made 14 escape attempts, 23 were caught alive, six were shot and killed during their escape, two drowned, and five are listed as “missing and presumed drowned”.
The cable cars in San Francisco are a must do experience and when you jump on board you are climbing hills the same way San Franciscans did in the 1870s. The cable cars were invented nearly 150 years ago and are a National Historic Landmark.
Other places to visit in San Francisco are: Fisherman’s Warf, the sea lions at Warf 39, the Historic Centre in the Northeast of the city, China town not only the oldest in the USA but also the world’s largest, Union Square if you like shopping, Haig Street a popular hippie area and Valencia Street with lots of bars, small restaurants, and shops.
The homeless population in San Francisco is growing and has become a major issue, it surprises me that a wealthy country which spends lots of money on foreign aid allows its own citizens to sleep on the streets.
According to the local’s crime has become a major issue in particular car break ins (20000 in 2022) We were told to stay away from the suburbs of Tenderloin and the Bayview Hunters Point area (no good for staying overnight) due to high levels of drug abuse, gang violence, and robberies.
The nearby San Andreas Fault is responsible for much earthquake activity. The San Andreas Fault caused the earthquakes in 1906 and 1989. Minor earthquakes occur on a regular basis. The threat of major earthquakes plays a large role in the city’s infrastructure development.
Time to leave San Francisco and head north following Highway 1 along the coast towards the Oregon border.
PART 3. San Francisco to Humboldt National Park
After some more shopping we left Sausalito to travel north along Highway 1. This is the major state highway that runs along most of the pacific coast of California. In fact it is the longest state road in California at just over 1000km.
First stop around 50 km north of San Francisco was Point Reyes National Seashore. As we followed the 101 North, we passed/visited Jenner. Bodega and Bodega Bay, Gualala all great little seaside villages driving along the stunning Highway 1, The narrow winding roads along soaring cliffs above the ocean is a must do.
We just missed the whale migration season in Bodega Bay. Next stop was the village of Mendocino. The 101 offers an amazing coastline with lots of opportunities to stop and enjoy this wild and untamed coastline, with lots of little coves. Lots of bush camping possible along this road. The area around Mendocino is an ideal overnight destination enroute to Humboldt National Park coming from San Francisco.
Our next overnight stop was on the avenue of the giants some say this is the most scenic road in the whole of the USA. Cannot comment as we still have a long, long way to go. However, this narrow 50-kilometre two-lane route is a wonderful way to explore the redwood groves. 50000 acres of which is more than half made up of old redwood forest and around 100 trees more than 120 meters high. Walking amongst the redwoods you realize how big those redwoods are.
PART 4. California North Coast to Crater Lake National Park in Oregon.
Just North of Arcata on the Northern California coast we turned inland towards Lassen National Park.
Leaving the coast means leaving the redwoods and the otherworldly lush foliage at Fern Canyon which Steven Spielberg used in the movie Jurassic Park. Going inland we passed many charming small towns like Weaverville, and we found some great bush camps on the way.
After the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles and San Francisco and the quite busy coast road, we enjoyed the small sleepy villages with old fashion buildings, local craft shops and fresh produce. Great scenery and lots of nice viewpoints.
It was in Weaverville where we met another traveller who gave us the bad news that Lassen National Park was closed due to heavy snowfall. Real pity. But it did save us a 300km round trip, we decided to turn North in Redding to the volcano Mt Shasta.
Mt Shasta is one of the southern most mountains in the Cascade Range and is close to the Oregon Border. Next stop was Kla Mo Ya Casino good spot to stay overnight, and the diesel was 1 dollar per gallon cheaper than in California.
From here it was an easy drive to Crater Lake National Park. Halfway driving up to Crater Lake National Park snow started falling and as advised the roads along the rim where all closed due to heavy snowfalls. We made it to the rim village (2150 meters high) and between the clouds and sunshine we still were able to see the lake and its cliffs 700 meters high. Wizard Island at the west end of Crater Lake reaches 2121 meters above sea level, and around 300metr above the lake. The island was also visible showing off the violent volcanic past. Rim Village is the main area for tourist services It is located on the southwest rim overlooking Crater Lake. We were told in winter this area has extreme winter conditions Blizzards, high winds, extreme cold and low visibility.
We were not allowed to stay overnight in the Rim Village Carpark, so we drove down just past the park entry and Visitor centre and pulled up in a snow park area where we spend a cold windy night and all windscreens iced up in the morning, I love our Webasto heater and the engine heater. Never realized I would use this in California and Oregon in Summer.
More bad news (I mean real bad news)
Progressive insurance advised us via email late Sunday that our insurance was cancelled as of the Previous day. No explanation, no reason given. We contacted our broker and 3 days later we were told by the broker that Progressive Insurance advised them “The 2011 Mercedes Benz Atego 1318 has an unacceptable body style”. Hence by now we are driving uninsured for the last 6 days!! Broker (Itsinsured) was off no help and stated nothing they could do. We than realized the money was already deposited back into our account minus the 17 days we were already insured? The annoying part is that part of the application required pictures from the inside and outside of the vehicle and based on all this the insurance was approved. I was still charged besides being unacceptable for 17 days. All confirmed in writing and paid for May 26 starting date June 1. Not a real good start in the USA. This is what the marketing department of progressive states. And we believed when we went ahead and paid for the insurance. Is this what they mean with Amerian BS!!!! “Your class A motorhome must be insured with basic RV Liability coverage. This coverage protects you financially in case you cause damages and/or injuries while driving your RV. So, if you were to hit another driver, Progressive would pay for their medical and vehicle repair bills, up to the limits of your policy, in the event of a covered loss. Whether you quote by phone or online, we’ll make sure you have the coverage you need to meet. This company deals with customers as numbers Without any regard for the consequences if I would have been involved in a accident and hurt someone. I was driving around 7 days around the USA uninsured. Todate I am still waiting for a response from Progressive to my question. “I am at a loss to understand what Public Liabilty got to do with a unacceptable body”
OREGON
PART 5 CRATER NATIONAL PARK to PORTLAND VIA OREGON COAST.
Crater National Park to Portland via the Oregon Coast.
Driving back to the coast was a mix of rolling grasslands, forests, and rivers. It reminded me of the western movies when pioneers rolled their wagons into unexplored valleys.
Once we reached the coast our first stop was in Florence. The town is surrounded by rolling sand dunes, miles of beaches. Leaving Florence, we travelled North following the coast with amazing scenery such as Rocky Headlands, tidal pools and one beautiful lighthouse named Heceta. We did not visit the Sea Lion Cave, but we were told it is the largest in the world. (Seen enough Sea Lions around the world)
The Oregon North Coast is full of historic towns, the long stretches of uninterrupted sandy beaches, great seafood, and clam chowder. (Clary’s favourite) lots of secluded spots for camping, campfire and to enjoy the wild sea. Cape Meares is a sleepy village between a lake and the large bluff of Cape Meares. A must do is to visit the lighthouse and the amazing views. Next stop is Pacific city where you can watch the surfers. Cannon Beach is a small coastal city in northwest Oregon. It is known for its long, sandy shore, and Haystack Rock is a seasonal haven for tufted puffins. We thought Puffins were only in Iceland. How wrong we were.
From here we turned inland towards Portland. Halfway we found a great camp spot on top of a hill overlooking the hills surrounding the area.
Portland is located and
Portland is also called the city of roses; Portland is located at the confluence of the Willamette and Colombia rivers. This forms the border between Oregon and Washington with a population of around 660000 people it is the most populous city in Oregon. And with 2.6 million people living in the metropolitan area, it is the 25th most populous in the USA. The other name for Portland is Bridgetown due to the many bridges of which three are over one hundred years old.
We were invited by Jeff and Shyanne Cohagan in Battle Ground just across the border with Washington. we met Jeff and Shyanne in Mexico 3 years ago. Jeff will do a service on my truck while we visit Holland for family reasons.
PART 6, PORTLAND TO PENDLETON
Around 75KM east of Portland, and the northern Willamette River valley, we entered Mt. Hood National Forest. Mt Hood is the tallest mountain in Oregon and dominates the landscape of this National Forest. The western slopes are thick with coniferous trees and lush undergrowth. Driving up towards the Timberline ski resort we passed many campgrounds. Timberline is the only ski area in the USA open 10 months of the year. The resort is located at the foot of the volcano Mt Hood (3407 meters) the highest mountain in Oregon.
I am told there are 60 commercial campsites on the mountain and 5 ski resorts and there are also less-developed areas for cross-country skiing, sledding, and snowmobiling. The ranger advised us that glaciers cover more than 8 square kilometres near the top of the mountain and hold more than 300 million cubic meters of snow and ice. But he also advised us of the rapid loss of the glaciers in the last century, based on pictures. From here we circled Mt Hood on our way to Colombia Gorge National Park and coming down the mountain at the eastern side we noticed this area is much drier than the western side.
Colombia Gorge National Park was designated a National Scenic Area. The landscape seems to grow bigger, grander, and brighter as it rolls east. We stayed overnight at Rowena Crest lookout which has an amazing view. The spectacular river canyon, 80 miles long and up to 4,000 feet deep, meanders past cliffs, spires, and ridges set against nearby peaks of the PNW’s Cascade Mountain Range.
On our way to Pendleton, we made 2 more overnight stops along this amazing river.
Pendleton is a small town of around 1700 people and has a rich history.
There are a few places still left in Oregon that bring that history to life and one of them is the Pendleton Underground City tour. Hiding beneath the streets of downtown Pendleton is a secret district that has been around for more than 100 years. Beneath the city of Pendleton, the Pendleton Underground is a network of tunnels that once was home to many secret businesses, both legal and illegal.
The tunnels were built by Chinese workers who had been harshly discriminated against by the town’s white population, it was unsafe for Chinese people to be out after sunset. During our tour with a great tour guide we were shown underground saloons, a chemist and brothels. While the rest of reserved Pendleton slept above, a wild time, and perhaps some light grocery shopping, was happening underneath the streets. A great tour and a must do when in Pendleton. Interesting fact was that the tunnels were only discovered in the 1980s when potholes started to appear in the roads.
We arrived right on time in Pendleton for the 27th annual Wildhorse Pow Pow. Dancers, traditional songs, and drummers showing off the power, strength, and native culture at the Pow Pow.
All this and traditional songs. This event attracts native Americans, Canadians and Mexicans from all around USA-Canada and Mexico. The ceremony honoring the traditions of their ancestors was very moving and special. IT WAS AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE TO BE PART OF THIS.
The Umatilla Indian Reservation is managed by the three confederated tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation The reservation was established for three native American tribes, the Umatilla, Walla Walla and for the Cayuse. All the tribes historically lived in the Colombia Plateau area. The reservation has a land area of 702.01 km2 and a tribal population of 2,927. In addition, some 300 Native Americans from other regional tribes and 1,500 non-natives live on the reservation. The tribes developed the Wildhorse Casino Resort on their reservation to generate revenues for their people.We spend 3 nights in their carpark while visiting the Pow Pow.
PART 7. PENDLETON TO REDMOND, and the PNW Overlander 4×4 show.
Leaving Pendleton winding through hills and canyons it was a mix of rolling benchlands and granite outcrops. This area was a bustling gold and silver mining area in the middle to late 1800’s. Traces are still visible of people who removed an estimated $10 million in gold and silver. Driving on the road in a comfortable vehicle it is hard to imagine that just 175 years ago people with thousands upon thousands of pioneer wagons pulled by oxen and mule teams were making their way west in the 1850s to settle the Oregon Territory.
Our first overnight stop was in Kimberley, a great spot right on the river. (Freezing cold) From here we moved on to Mitchell. Breathtaking landscapes, and stunning vistas dotted with old towns and ranches are all part of Oregon’s extraordinary and ruggedly beautiful interior. Mitchell might have a “Ghost Town” look, yet it is anything but dead! One of the last frontier towns of the Old West The frontier spirit is alive and well today.
From Mitchell it is just a few kilometres to the painted hills National Monument and another few kilometres to the painted hills with varied stripes of red, tan, orange, and black, all part of the changes from the ice age to today (past climate change) The Painted Hills also contains a diverse variety of leaf fossils aging 39-30 million years old named the Bridge Creek Flora.
We found a nice bush camp just around 15 kilometres before Redmond. Redmond has a population of around 33000 and is fast growing. Located in Central Oregon it is promoted as the adventure area together with nearby town of Bend. The area has mountains, rivers, canyons, waterfalls, and the painted cliffs nearby. In winter skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoe trails on the slopes of Mt Bachelor and HooDoo are the main attractions.
Once we did our last-minute shopping in Redmond and updated our phone card it was time to meet up with the organizers of the PNW Overlander 4×4 show in Redmond. This show is marketed as the world premier overlanding event in the world. From the brochure “no other event offers the scope of classes taught by the world’s leading experts alongside a professional-level trade show that brings together all the camping and vehicle and motorcycle equipment and services you need to Get Outfitted. Get Trained. Get Inspired. Get Going.”
The show was held at the Deschutes County expo centre covering 340 acres and has amazing views of the Cascade Mountains.
The show was an enormous success. Before, during and after various presentations, it was great to meet people who have been following us on Facebook, our newsletter and website for many years.
During our presentations (overlanding Asia, Middle East, and Africa) it became noticeably clear that most Americans who attended the show have a fear of going overseas or abroad into Mexico. It amazed us that most have little knowledge of the rest of the world and most questions were always related to safety, security, and border crossings.
Let us hope our presentations made them understand that the world is not a dangerous place and most people in all countries around the world are super friendly towards tourist and many times you will be invited into their houses.
Due to a family emergency we had to leave early on the last day of the show to catch flights to Europe. We will be back in the USA July 29 to continue our journey.
A few years ago, we met Jeff and Shyanne in Mexico, and they offered us parking at their property just north of Portland while we travelled to Europe. At the same time Jeff serviced our vehicle. MANY THANKS MATE.
Till next time when we return from Europe and will be exploring Washington state
PART 8. PORTLAND to the SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Hi all.
We returned from the Netherlands after a very sad goodbye to my sister (only months to live diagnosed Pancreatic cancer) and Clary her mother and father. (Clary her mum passed away while we were at the airport)
Sadly, my sister passed away one week later while we were back in the USA. Lucky, we said our goodbyes to her the week before in The Netherlands.
Major service done, said goodbye to fellow overlanders Jeff and Shyanne who looked after our truck while we went to Europe. Ready to start exploring Washington.
WASHINGTON
Washington state is known for its rich history and cultural heritage in the Northwest region. The state is named after George Washington, the first US president. Washington is known for its mountainous landscapes, and birthplace of some of the biggest global companies like Microsoft, Amazon, and Starbucks. 3 famous people born in Washington are Jimi Hendriks, Bill Gates, and Kurt Cobain
First stop Mt St Helens around 130KM North of Battle Ground (Portland)
Mount St Helen is part of the Cascade volcanic Arc and part of the Pacific ring of fire. Mt St Helens erupted in 1980 and until now the deadliest volcanic event in the USA. Just under 60 people lost their lives, over 47 bridges, 30km of railways, 300KM of highway and over 200 homes were destroyed. Mount St. Helens erupted on May 18, 1980; this reduced the Peak of the mountain by around 450 meters A cloud of ash rose nearly 20KM in the air. Mount St. Helen’s landscape is still recovering from the eruption in 1980 today. One of the most popular places to observe and learn about the mountain is the Johnston Ridge Observatory. At the time of our visit the road was closed 7 miles before the observatory due to a landslide
Our next stop was Mount Rainier National Park. The highest mountain (dormant volcano) in Washington, at 4367 meters. The park offers stunning scenery, mountain meadows and waterfalls. The park is full of wildlife, Black tailed deer, Elk, Black Bears, Goats and Squirrels, Marmots and Raccoons. Mount Rainier is an iconic Washington landmark seen miles from every direction.
The peak of Mt Rainier is permanent ice and snow and include over 20 glaciers s around the summit area. The largest of these is Emmons Glacier along the northeast face. Two areas of particularly stunning interest include the Sunrise and Paradise regions of the park. More bad luck the weather turned nasty (Rain and Sleet), and the planned Stevens Canyon Road was also closed for traffic from Monday to Friday. hence, we entered via Elbe, stayed overnight just outside the park, and visited Paradise the next morning. Returning from Paradise the same road we stopped in Elbe but more bad news The Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad was not operating till September. PFFFFFF
Olympic National Park. It is situated on the Olympic Peninsula. Olympic National Park is one of the largest national parks in Washington state covering nearly a million acres. It has amazing peaks, lush rain forests, and a stretch of wild beaches. It covers most of the Olympic Peninsula, and roads only circle the wild terrain, never cutting through the park’s mountainous heart. This park has it all, beautiful coastline, lush rain forests, and soaring mountains. The villages of Ruby and Rialto Beach are on rugged wild coast on the West Side of the Park.
From here only a short drive to Hoh Rain Forest. Here you find huge trees and lots of rainforest. Living in the Rainforest area of Australia we really looked forward to a rainforest in a temperate climate. And we found it along the Hoh river.
The Hoh Rain Forest earns its name from the ever-flowing Hoh River that winds its way from Mount Olympus towards the Pacific Coast. This area has over 3500 mm of rain per year. The undergrowth is dense, and the canopy is thick, providing shade. Resulting in a lush, green canopy and trees covered in mosses and ferns that cover the surfaces resulting in one of the finest remaining examples of temperate rainforest in the United States.
It is always exciting to see animals in their natural habitat and despite seeing very little wildlife we did see a Roosevelt Elk next to our Motorhome. At night next to a campfire we were constantly out on the lookout for the mountain lion (Cougar) and Black Bears but (Lucky) we never seen any.
The friendly ranger recommended we do the loop in the park and must admit it was amazing and we felt so miniscule in comparison to the Sitka Spruce, Red Cedar, Big Leaf Maple, and Douglas Fir that thrive here in the rainforest.
Higher still into the Olympics, we planned to travel to Hurricane Ridge a high alpine recreation area around 30KM from the small harbor town of Port Angeles. But not only was the weather lousy the road was closed. In May the visitor centre burned down and currently due to lack of facilities they only allow 345 vehicles on the Mountain. More bad luck, Lake Angeles trials were closed until Further Notice due to Cougar Attack Alert 3, Severity closure, Lake Angeles Area Trails Closed until Further Notice due to Cougar Attack “an 8-year-old child was attacked by a cougar while camping in the National Park.” As the weather stayed poor for the following days we decided to move on.
Port Townsend is a charming seaport city on the northeast edge of the Olympic Peninsula. It’s a spot of cultural and historical value and home to Fort Worden. Port Townsend is steeped in fascinating history, from its early Native American roots and maritime History Fort Worden Historical State Park is a National Historic Landmark that once served as a base of the United States Army Coast Artillery Corps.
From here we took the Ferry to Coupeville on the San Juan Islands. Out of the 174 islands only the 4 largest are easily accessible by ferry. The Deception Pass Bridge is an iconic landmark of the region. The historic bridge spans Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands in Puget Sound
We bypassed Seattle as we already visited the town enroute to Europe a month or so ago. At the time we visited the crowded waterfront and fish throwers at Pike Place Markets. Our planned visit to the jet assembly plant tour at the Boeing Factory, located north of Seattle in Everett. was closed hence we continued to Cascade Mountains National Park
PART 9. Northern Cascade National Park to Glacier National Park.
IDAHO & MONTANA
PART 10, Glacier National Park
After staying overnight at the Walmart carpark in Idaho, we entered Montana.
Today we felt like an American traveller. On the road early and parking late. We choose the scenic byway to Glacier National Park but despite being scenic it appears everyone was in a hurry.
Glacier National Park is in northwestern Montana on the border with Canada. This park is around 4000sq kilometres and includes over 130 lakes. Lake McDonald on the western side of the park is the longest lake at 16 kilometres long and 140 meters deep at the deepest point. The ranger told us that the surface temperature of the lake never gets above 10 degrees Celsius. In addition to this the park has hundreds of rivers, waterfalls, and streams.
According to the rangers in the 1950’s 150 glaciers measuring 25 acres in size existed in Glacier National Park. By 2010 only 25 remained and it looks like that by 2030 all glaciers will have disappeared.
Part of Glacier Nat Park is Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada and was the first international Peace Park in the world (1932) and became a World Heritage site in 1995.
We bush camped 5km from the park entrance and the locals warned us to be on the lookout for Black bears, Grizzle Bears, Big Horn sheep, Elk, Moose, Mountain Lions, Wolves and Lynx. So, Clary decided against a campfire tonight. (Due to the many bushfires in the area this was not allowed anyway)
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW.
From 6AM till 3PM you need a vehicle reservation. Scooters and Motorbikes are also regarded as a vehicle. Before 6AM and after 3PM no vehicle reservation required. Security will not let you in even at 2 minutes before 3PM and send you away!! Wish the faceless people were as efficient operating the online booking service.
We arrived at West Glacier at 3PM and due to our difficulty getting onto the website we decided to visit the visitor centre first at Apgar Village. We have been trying to make a reservation at Glacier NP for our scooter, but the website has not been working nor did it accept our Australian mobile number. Last advise we received was to visit the visitor centre at West Glacier, but again no luck as even the rangers could not finalize our reservation. It was good to see that the local Americans had the same issues.
The vehicle reservation system is to reduce congestion on the roads and pull outs inside the park which we understand. BUT I am unable to understand, why a small scooter needs a vehicle permit, this got me lost.
Motorhomes up to 21 Foot are allowed inside the park, our motorhome is 26 Ft hence too long. A few campsites cater for the larger RV’s in the beginning of the park. The campgrounds inside the park require you to book on the same booking site. All campsites, we were told were fully booked and we were told that people book 6 months ahead. Hard to believe as while returning from a daytrip we realized the campsite marked full on the website and at the entrance was not even 50% occupied at 8.15PM that night?
For those without a scooter/bike and a motorhome over 21ft, there is a free National Park Shuttle.
Is the park worth visiting? ABSOLUTELY
A mix of melting glaciers, alpine meadows, carved valleys, spectacular lakes, and the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road.
The best views in Glacier Nat Park are found on the “Going to The Sun Road” and the highlights are The loop, Big Bend, Weeping Wall, and the Logan Pass visitor centre. Driving around Glacier National Park on our scooter was amazing and despite lots of tourist and full carparks with the scooter we always found a spot. Glorious views, incredible scenic drives
We came during sunset and the golden hour was spectacular. Unfortunately for us the bushfires around the park and across the border in Canada did not help the view. Realizing that most campsites were not fully booked despite the rangers and websites telling us different, we tried our luck the following day by turning up without a booking. You guessed it, lots of space?
Glacier National Park is a beautiful scenic wilderness area and home to hundreds of glacier-carved peaks, over 600 lakes, hundreds of rivers, waterfalls, and streams. After we explored Glacier National Park, we headed for Crows Agency where that weekend a large festival took place.
PART 11. GLACIER NATIONAL PARK to BEAR TOOTH RANGES
Hi All
The western half of Montana contains numerous mountain ranges, while the eastern half is characterized by western prairie. Montana also has a nickname BIG SKY COUNTRY. Agriculture and Tourism are major contributors to the state economy. Montana is larger than Japan and the 4th largest state in the USA after Alaska, Texas, and California. Montana has some 3,000 named lakes and reservoirs. Montana also has the largest Grizzly population in the lower 48 states.
Montana has seven Indian reservations. Approximately 63% of all Native people live off the reservations, with the largest concentration of urban Indians living in Great Falls. We were told as many as 275 different tribes lived in Montana. We visited one, the Crow Indian reserve in Crows Agency during their yearly festival what includes Dance, Rodeo, Music, and a grand parade.
The Crow (Apsaalooke) tribe of Indians has a population of around 11000 of which around 8000 live on the Crow Indian Reservation. This reservation is the largest of 7 in Montana and covers 2.3 million acres in Southern Central Montana. Crow Agency is called the Tee-Pee Capital of the world. We were lucky to attend the Crow Fair Celebration as it is the largest Native American Event in Montana. The event attracts more than 50000 spectators and participants.
The event includes many cultural activities throughout the day and night. The daily evening grand entries and the morning parades provides the beauty of all tribes in attendance. The different dance styles during the Pow Pow are amazing to watch. For me the highlight was the Rodeo, Bull riding, bucking Horse riding, Steer roping, Team Roping, Tie down roping and in particular the Indian Relay horse races.
INDIAN RELAY HORSE RACE.
Teams consist of one rider, three horses, two holders and a mugger. The race starts in front of the grandstands, with a standing start. Riders make one lap around the track; the rider hops off the first horse and jumps on the second horse in a dazzling display of athleticism. This is repeated when he hops off the second horse and jumps on the third horse. All this bare back. It is the mugger’s job to catch the rider’s horse. the holders restrain the other two horses. Four to six teams enter the arena portion of the track per heat. Two horses and their holders head for the rail to wait their turn at the action. The starting horses, riders and muggers line up in the arena centre,
In all a great weekend with great company. Ton and Chantal came over from South Dakota and Martin and Bianca came in from Canada on their way to the Burning Man Festival. We also received a lot of information from Ton and Chantal who had just visited Mt Rushmore and the Badlands area. After saying goodbye on Sunday, we continued to the Beartooth Ranges.
The Beartooth Pass is at the summit of the scenic 110KM byway drive from Red Lodge Village in Montana to the eastern entrance of Yellowstone National Park. The pass elevation is just under 3400 meters before beginning your descent on the west side. The road is the highest road in both Wyoming and Montana. The Beartooth Plateau is the largest continuous land mass over 3,000 m high in the continental United States. Granite Peak at 3901 meters is the highest point in Montana. In total the area has over 25 peaks reaching over 3700 meters.
The Beartooth Highway is a breathtaking scenic drive that winds through the mountains of Montana and Wyoming. Unfortunately for us it was not, from 37 degrees and blue sky the day before it was cloudy, and we encountered wet snow on the top with just a few degrees Celsius. That night we bush camped on the west side of the mountain and the weather was atrocious as the rain pelted down and the wind at time was gale-force.
Clary was happy that we had to stay inside due to the poor weather as the local ranger advised us of Grizzly bears, Lynx, Wolves, Cougars, Bisons and Elk roaming around in the mountains.
MONTANA, IDAHO AND WYOMING
PART 12. YELLOWSTONE and TETON NATIONAL PARK.
After a miserable windy and rainy night, we woke up to a calm cold morning, ready to enter Yellowstone National Park in the remote Northeast corner of the park.
World-famous Yellowstone, established in 1872, is the oldest national park in the United States and one of the most popular. In 1978, Yellowstone was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Park is in the northwest corner of Wyoming and spills into neighbouring Idaho and Montana. Yellowstone National Park is 8990 sq kilometres, famous for its geysers. It’s home to the world’s largest number of active geysers. The scenery ranges from snaking rivers and sweeping green valleys, to vast lakes, canyons, thundering waterfalls, and hissing lunar-like landscapes.
We explored Yellowstone National Park by driving around in a figure-eight past the park’s most known natural features staying overnight inside the park at Grant Village. The campground is located on Yellowstone Lake which is one of the largest high elevation lakes in North America. It is disappointing when you sit outside enjoying the bush, the view and wildlife and your neighbour turns up switches on his generator closes the door and moves inside. Listening to your neighbours Generator 3 meters away (10 ft) is in my book very inconsiderate? BUT it is their country, the best we could do is leave and find a nice spot in the bush just outside the park.
Since June 1 this was the first time we stayed in a paid RV park (40USD or 73.00AUD per night and no facilities and sites not even made level. PFFFFFFF) what a RIP OFF.
Our first stop in Yellowstone National Park was in the magnificent Lamar Valley, a prime area for viewing wildlife such as large herds of bison, bald eagles, and badgers, as well as coyotes, wolves, and grizzly bears hunting on the open grasslands. From here we travelled East to West towards Mammoth Hot Springs, amazing thermal springs that deposit travertine. From here we travelled south stopping at the many viewpoints and road site thermal pools.
A must do stop is at the midway Geyser Basin, it has two of Yellowstone’s biggest geothermal features. The crater of the excelsior Geyser which let 200 Liters of hot water per second in the Firehole River. The next feature is the 100-meter-wide Grand Prismatic Spring one of the finest and biggest hot springs in the park. Its colours are amazing. From here the park (central area) gets very busy and traffic is stop start.
One of the star attractions of Yellowstone National Park is the geyser known as Old Faithful. Named this way for the regularity with which it erupts, shooting columns of water high up into the air. The eruptions vary between 35 and 120 minutes but on average 90 minutes. Due to traffic and the large amount of tourist we decided to arrive late afternoon when most tourist have left.
Old Faithful is not the Yellowstone’s largest geyser; however, it does erupt more frequently than other large geysers in the park. The eruptions usually last from one-and-a-half minutes to five minutes and reach heights of between 30 and 60 meters.
Black Sand Basin lies about 1 kilometre from the Old Faithful geyser, and it has the reputation for being one of the most colourful spots in Yellowstone.
The Norris Geyser Basin is famous for being the hottest, and most active of the hydrothermal areas in Yellowstone. Porcelain Basin is a bleak and treeless lunar-like setting steeped in the pungent aroma of the bubbling geysers. The other is the Steamboat Geyser the tallest active geyser in the world, which erupts irregularly, shooting water up to a height of 300 feet.
On our way to the Yellowstone Grand Canyon, we crossed Hayden Valley. It is the prime spot for wildlife viewing.
from Yellowstone Lake, the Yellowstone River flows via the Hayden Valley before it forms two spectacular waterfalls as it plunges into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Not sure if I agree with the Yellowstone marketing Guru’s about the statement, it resembles Arizona’s Grand Canyon, but the 35-kilometre-long canyon is impressive. The Upper waterfall plummets 35 meters down and the next water fall just a 100meters further plunges around 100 meters down.
We decided to bush camp just outside West Yellowstone Village, I can’t justify 40USD for a site without any facilities and not even made level. As a matter of interest, the Grant Village also showed full but was not even 50% occupied during our stay.
West Yellowstone is a town in southern Montana. In town, the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center offers the chance to get close to bears and wolves. Housed in an old train depot, Yellowstone Historic Center traces local history and transportation. We were surprised to see so many European and Chinese visitors in town and some shopkeepers told us that more than 50% of its annual business is from European and Chinese tourist. (We even saw signs in Mandarin and German) It is very touristy and not our cup of tea hence we camped out of town in the bush.
The following day we re-entered Yellowstone Nat Park to explore the southern part of the park and Lake Lewis. On our way to Teton National Park, we left Yellowstone National Park via the John D Rockefeller Parkway. This offered spectacular mountain scenery.
TETON NATIONAL PARK
This Wyoming park is what we remember from the movies taken in the American West. Teton National Park is very small compared to the size of nearby Yellowstone National Park. But except from Bisons and a few Elk we saw little wildlife.
We found an amazing bush camp with a great view of the Teton Range. The sunrise from our bush camp was amazing with clouds below us in the valley. Someone stated this are mountains of the imagination. The major peaks of the Teton Range are just 64 kilometres long. Grand Teton the highest peak at 4199 meters. Jenny Lake is the centre piece of the park. It is possible to take a boat ride on the lake but due to the many tourists around we decided against it.
Once we left our campsite, we followed the loop which has some amazing viewpoints along the way. Unfortunately, Signal Hill was closed (overlooking Jackson Valley) The Moose Wilson Road was also closed. But we were told this road was not allowed for RV’s, due to its narrow and winding character coupled with its alignment between a steep hillside, wetlands, and thick vegetation cover. However, we could have taken our motorbike instead if the road would be open.
Jackson Hole is a town in Wyoming’s Jackson Hole valley, home to 3 ski areas: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Snow King Mountain Resort and Grand Targhee Resort. By far too touristy for us we left town without getting out of the car.
Despite being told the park is teeming with wildlife including the grey wolf, American Black Bear, Coyote, Lynx, Grizzly Bears we only saw a few Bisons and a couple of snakes. Never saw any Elk and we wonder if this is due as hunting of Elk is allowed. Official reason is to keep the population of Elk under control. Hunting is restricted to areas east of the Snake River, and north of Moran.
To summarize, Teton National Park is small, but its scenery and bush camping locations are amazing.
MONTANA & WYOMING
PART 13 Yellowstone & Teton Nat Park to Mount Rushmore (South Dakota)
Wyoming
From battlefields and forts to the Historic Governor’s Mansion to the Oregon Trail ruts, Wyoming’s historic sites are home to a rich and diverse history. Wyoming played a significant role in forming the West as we know it. Sitting around our campfire at night we can only imagine what it would be like to be a cowboy or Indian in 18th and 19th centuries.
As we left Yellowstone National Park from the central East entrance, we followed Buffalo Bill Cody scenic Byway, via Sylvan Pass, Shoshone National Forest, Wapiti Valley, and the Buffalo Bill Dam, which is a prototype for the world-famous Hoover Dam, its dam wall is over 100 meters high.
Next stop Cody, the rodeo capital of the world. The city was founded by the most authentic representative of the Old West, Colonel William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody. His name still conjures up guns, buckskins, horses, and the Old West.
For a taste of the real American West, Cody, Wyoming is a good place to start. We had a drink at the famous Irma Hotel and its cherrywood bar and watched the Gunfighters perform live outside the hotel. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center is where you find 5 museums under the one roof.
Leaving Cody, we crossed the Bighorn Mountains. This was an amazing drive with breathtaking vistas of distant peaks. This route connects Buffalo and Ten sleep Canyon.
Enroute to Buffalo we stopped at Lake de Smet, for a few days R&R. This was our second paid campsite (15.00 USD per night without facilities) since we entered the USA in June. The location was nice but had a complete lack of privacy with those bloody huge trailers and motorhomes with the generator running. You would think they would invest in solar. Having said this, most owners spend the day inside in the aircon PFFFFFFFFFF. We left the following day and found ourselves a nice place in the forest.
UTAH
PART 14 ENTERING UTAH (Colorado Border) Exploring Arches National Park, Canyon Lands NP & Corner Country
Covering more than 46000 square kilometres of desert landscape the 4-corner region is scenic and has many parts ready to be explored.
This area known as the Navajo Nation is home to major attractions known worldwide, including Monument Valley, Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon, other points of interest are Horseshoe Bend, Valley of the Gods, Mexican Head. Enroute to Kayenta
the dramatic landscapes of the Colorado Plateau, and deeply red earth and impossibly blue skies, reminded us of the old western movies we used to watch when growing up.
Monument Valley
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is one of the most recognized landscapes in the USA and possible of the world. Marvel at Mother Nature’s handiwork, eroding massive rocks into interesting sculptures that reach heights of up to 350 meters. The angle of the sun gives these amazing formation change in colour during the day. Natural forces of wind and water that eroded the land spent the last 50 million years cutting into and peeling away at the surface of the plateau. The simple wearing down of altering layers of soft and hard rock slowly revealed the natural wonders of Monument Valley today.
Monument Valley in the Navaro language means valley of the rocks. This area is part of the Colorado Plateau characterized by a collection of crimson mesas and towering sandstone buttes that capture colours that appear only in nature. The valley is considered sacred by the Native American people who live in the reservation what is part of the Navajo Nation.
Monument Valley isn’t a “valley” in the true sense of the word, but a wide, arid, desolate plain with enormous red sandstone mesas, buttes, and spires dotted throughout.
Monument Valley has been photographed, painted by thousands, and has appeared in many Hollywood films. To name a few, Forest Gump, The Searchers, Once upon a time in the west, Stagecoach, and the Lone ranger.
Forest Gump Point
On our way to Mexican Head a must do stop is at Forest Gump Point, from here looking back a long straight road that runs back towards Monument Valley. This gives the real image of the far west.
Many travellers on daily tight schedules miss this spot as it is not part of the standard trip and route.
Mexican Hat
Mexican Hat is a small village (population about 40) around 50 Kilometres north of Monument Valley. The village is named after the curiously sombrero shaped rock outcropping just out of town. The rock measures 18 meters wide and just under 4 meters long. Our campsite along the river had a great view of the rock and we enjoyed our 3 days stay at the valley overlooking Mexican Head.
After a few days at Mexican Head, we continued to the Valley of the Gods. Also known as a Miniature Monument Valley. The beautiful Cedar Mesa sandstone monoliths, pinnacles and other geological features of this scenic area are eroded by wind and water over millions of years.
The Valley of the Gods
The roads through the Valley of the Gods are a mix of gravel, clay, washouts, and sharp turns but nothing difficult. It provides a fun drive through an area that is usually deserted. It is a great place to get away from civilization – to get away from everything associated with modern life. it is a hidden gem.
Despite it being just 50 kilometres away from Monument Valley it is not visited by many, it offers great bush camping, and the Valley of the Gods offers isolated buttes, towering pinnacles and wide-open spaces that seem to go on forever. Permits are not required and there are no fees to drive the Valley of the Gods unlike Monument Valley.
Because of its isolated nature you need to be self-sufficient There are no facilities. The western end of the Valley of the Gods Road connects with Hwy 261 what is known as the Moki Dugway a section of very tight switchbacks that allow Hwy 261 to climb the cliff face to the top of Cedar Mesa.
Antilope Canyon
After leaving Valley of the Gods our plan was to visit Antilope Canyon. We were told Antilope is visited by thousands of people every day. Only way to visit is by guided tour. The canyon is located around the town of Page. Antelope is the most visited slot canyon, partly because it is easily accessible and by far the most publicized, and it is extremely beautiful, with just the right combination of depth, width, length, rock colour and ambient light. Most slot canyons are deeper.
As it worked out the weather was poor, windy and overcast. Hence, we decided to give the canyon a miss. Current prices for the short tour are 100USD, but we were told the fees will increase as the Navajo continue to exploit the ever-growing popularity of the canyon.
Page
Arriving in Page our first stop was the Walmart to stock up. Walmart is always a good place to stop overnight once it is getting late in the day. Page is a great destination when you enjoy and appreciate natural beauty. For many it is the start of the Grand Circle a cluster of over a dozen national parks in Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, Nevada, and Colorado. They are near each other. For us this was an amazing part of the world. And more to come such as Zion National Park, Arches National Park, Grand Staircase Escalante, Capitol Reef, Grand Canyon, are all part of the Grand Circle.
Horseshoe Bend National Park
The following morning our first stop was Horseshoe Bend National Park. This park attracts over 2 million visitors every year. Horseshoe Bend is a horseshoe-shaped bend in the Colorado River that offers breathtaking views from a 350-meter-high cliff. Horseshoe Bend itself, and that part of the Colorado River, are a part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Located just North of the East Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park.
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
Glen Canyon National Recreation area covers 5,076.49 square kilometres of mostly rugged high desert terrain. The area is named for Glen Canyon, which was flooded by the Glen Canyon Dam. Completed in 1966 and is now mostly submerged beneath the waters of Lake Powell. The Recreation area has borders with Capital Reef National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, and the Grand Canyon National Park. The main reason this recreation area has been developed is to have access to Lake Powell.
Glen Canyon Dam
The Glen Canyon Dam is an impressive engineering feat that created Lake Powell. Lake Powell was created by the flooding of Glen Canyon by the Glen Canyon Dam. Upon completion of Glen Canyon Dam on September 13, 1963, the Colorado River began to back up, no longer being diverted through the tunnels. The newly flooded Glen Canyon formed Lake Powell. Sixteen years it took before the lake filled to the 1,100 m level in June 1980. The lake level fluctuates considerably depending on the seasonal snow runoff from the Rocky Mountains.
LAKE POWEL
Lake Powel is one of the largest man-made lakes in the United States. The lake is surrounded by stunning red rock formations. Lake Powel has nearly 3,200 km of fish-holding shoreline. Lake Powell is in northern Arizona and stretches up into southern Utah. It is also part of the Colorado River
It is the second largest artificial reservoir by maximum water capacity in the United States.
Water levels at Lake Powell hit a historic low due to drought in 2021. April 2022 Lake Powel was just 22% of capacity and this was the lowest water level since 1963, forcing some marinas and other area services to limit or suspend all activities.
Lake Powel is the second largest artificial reservoir by maximum water capacity in the United States behind Lake Mead. Lake Powell was created by the Glen Canyon Dam and the flooding of Glen Canyon.
After 2 days camping at an amazing lookout just a few kilometres out of Page we continued to our next stop Zion National Park.
ZION NATIONAL PARK
It has been 26 years ago since we visited Zion National Park last. People call Zion National Park heaven on earth, a red-rock wonderland created by wind, water, and snow. Mormon pioneers arriving in the area in the 1860s were so overwhelmed by the natural beauty of Zion Canyon and its surroundings that they named it after the Old Testament name for the city of Jerusalem.
Zion National Park is in the Southwest of Utah. We camped on day 1, a few kilometres before the East Entrance of the park, and Day 2 on the South Side around 10 kilometres away from the park and the village of Springdale.
The East side is where we entered the park, which passes through the Zion–Mount Carmel Tunnel which was built in the 1920s when large vehicles were less common. This tunnel requires a special permit. As we are classed as oversized, we had to Pay 15 USD for 2 tunnel passes valid for 7 days. The rangers stopped oncoming traffic so that we could drive down the centre of the tunnel having 100 mm to spare from the roof.
The highlight of the park is Zion Canyon 24 kilometres long and up to 800 meters deep. The canyon walls are reddish, and orange coloured also called Navajo Sandstone.
The road into the Canyon is 10 kilometres but not open for private vehicles between April and the end of October. During this time the only access is by free shuttle bus. All other roads in Zion are open to private vehicles year-round. It was nice but the thousands of people in the gorge made it less spectacular for us. Driving by shuttle is not something we enjoy.
Zion National Park really revolves around the Zion Canyon, as it includes most of the highlights of the park. Including Angels Landing (famous world-wide but we did not walk the trial) The great white throne, The West Temple, and the Court of the Patriarchs.
The old riverside village of Springdale on the southside of the park is the park’s primary gateway. The main road in the village is the main tourist strip full of hotels, restaurants, art galleries, and shops.
The northern part of the park is known as the Kolob Canyons section and is accessible only from Highway 15. Kolob Canyons is even smaller than Zion Canyon but we are told if you enjoy hiking this is another place to go. Due to the large amounts of traffic and, tourist busses we gave that a miss.
On our second day when we entered Zion from the south side, we arrived at 9AM and more than 1 kilometres of traffic (Day trippers from Las Vegas) were already lining up to get into the park. This is also the reason that as of early 2000 the 10km road into the Canyon was closed for traffic during the months of June till October and a public transportation system using propane-powered shuttle buses was implemented.
PART 18 Mammoth Lakes to Phoenix Under Construction
PART 19 Phoenix to Border New Mexico (ROUTE 66)
Phoenix to Holbrook
Leaving Phoenix, we decided to bypass the highway and drove Northwest towards Wickenburg and the old mining towns of Congress and Stanton at the base of the Weaver Mountains. The highway climbs the mountains on a series of switchbacks, known as Yarnell Hill, offering spectacular views of the Sonoran Desert and tops out at the town of Yarnell. Yarnell marks the transition from the desert to the central mountains of Arizona. After crossing the Peeples Valley, 89 enters the Bradshaw Mountains for a winding, curvy descent into Prescott.
Prescott has a rich history as a frontier gold and silver mining town. Mining and settlers brought frequent conflict with native American tribes in the area, including the Apache. Whiskey Row in downtown Prescott boasts many historic buildings, including The Palace, Arizona’s oldest restaurant and bar.
Flagstaff, the city sits at about 2,100 m and is just south of the San Francisco Peaks, the highest mountain range in the state of Arizona with Humphreys peak at 3852 meters which is the highest point in Arizona. Flagstaff, AZ is more than just the closest city to Grand Canyon National Park. Flagstaff is a vibrant, little city with a thriving local and mountain culture. Flagstaff, a captivating city nestled amidst breathtaking landscapes, has established itself as a magnet for mountain bikers, campers, hikers, and ski enthusiast.
Arizona Snowbowl. Just 16 kilometres north of Flagstaff on the western slope of Mount Humphreys on the majestic San Francisco Peaks. Arizona Snowbowl opened in 1938 and is one of the oldest continually run ski areas in the United States. The ski area receives 6.5 meters of snow on average every year.
Time to head East and follow the historical route 66.
After The ski fields just outside Flagstaff we visited Walnut Canyon Indigenous Peoples have lived and traveled throughout Walnut Canyon’s dynamic landscape. Vibrant communities built their homes in the cliffs and farmed along the canyon’s rim. Today the park preserves this landscape, and the ancestral homes in and around the canyon.
Just before Winslow, we stopped at Meteor Crater , They told us the world’s best-preserved meteorite impact site on Earth. Just off the old Route 66 Meteor Crater is the spectacular result of a collision that rocked the American Southwest approximately 50,000 years ago It hit the planet with such force that a crate was formed 1200 meters wide and 170 meters deep. I am not so sure if it is the worlds best, but maybe it is the worlds most touristy One. I think wolf crater at the end of the Canning Stock road is as good as. (without all the tourist)
Winslow
Standin’ On the Corner Park in Winslow is a public park on Route 66 in Winslow, it is named after the Eagles Song “Take it Easy’, which uses the name Winslow in the song.
If you follow the old historical Route 66 from Winslow, you will drive past two of the Route’s more famous trading posts. Once you come across the sign “Here It Is” and you have arrived at Jackrabbit Trading post. Not the trading post and the goods it used to sell but a store full of memorabilia, touristy souvenirs, T shirts etc. The second is the Geronimo Trading Post, which is home to what is claimed to be the world’s largest petrified log.
Holbrook
Arriving in Holbrook we were looking for some quirky Route 66 attractions. we stopped at the famous Wigwam motel. It has no rooms but large concrete teepee’s that have been operating as a motel since 1950. We also stopped at the Rainbow Rock Stop, home to various giant statues.
The Petrified Forest National Park around 30 kilometres out of town it is named after the fossilized (Petrified) wood that dots the area. The Petrified Forest is home to a large number of fossilised trees, and the colourful landscapes of the painted desert. An original section of route 66 used to run through the park. We entered the South Entrance; the area is desert but has lots of colour.
Time to continue our route 66 journey towards New Mexico.
PART 20 New Mexico to Lake Mead (Nevada)
May 17 we were invited to present our 20 years around the world travel at the largest overlander 4×4 show in the world in Flagstaff Arizona.
Last year we spent too much time in Las Vegas and R & R at Lake Havasu hence we never visited the Grand Canyon. Before our overlander days we did visit the Grand Canyon on 3 occasions but with a lot more time on our hands this time we like to explore the north and southside of the Grand Canyon over 7 days and not just the tourist areas.
The minute we crossed from New Mexico into Arizona the road improved. Despite having travelled part of this journey crossing in and out of Arizona and Utah at least 6 times over the last 30 years and the last time just 6 months ago, it never fails to impress. Northeast Arizona is known for its rugged landscape, is arid, largely free of greenery, and characterized by hills, mesas, buttes, cliffs, and canyons. The Grand Canyon and Canyon de Chelly has been inhabited by native Americans (Indians) since at least the construction of what are now the ruins at Monument Valley, Navajo National Monument, and the Canyon de Chelly National Monument.
Our plan to explore the Northern part of the Grand Canyon did not eventuate as the road and park were closed till May 15.
Nevada is the driest state in America. Lake Mead, with more than 1200 kilometres of shoreline is America’s first and largest national recreation area with plenty of space for bush camping along some of the beaches, coves or cliffs surrounding the lake. This great area covers 1.5 million acres of mountains, canyons, valleys and two vast lakes.
Lake Mead is a reservoir formed by the Hoover Dam on the Colorado. Lake Mead is in both Arizona and Nevada, just 40 kilometres East of Las Vegas. It is the largest reservoir in the US in terms of water capacity.
The lake provides water to the states of Arizona, California, Nevada and even some to Mexico, providing sustenance to 20 million people and large areas of farmland. Very concerning is that the lake remained below full capacity since 1983 owing to increased water demand and drought. On May 31, 2022, Lake Mead held just 26% of full capacity.
PART 21 LAS VEGAS to LAUGLIN
Over the years we have been visiting Las Vegas around 10 times, staying at great resorts such as the Bellagio, Venetian, Paris Paris, and the Mandalay, throughout its 118-year history, Las Vegas has been known as the planet’s premier destination for gambling. But Sin City’s entertainment options have become more diverse in recent years, extending far beyond pinging slot machines, poker, and roulette tables. During our first visit in our own vehicle in October last year we missed out on a U2 concert in the SPHERE (SOLD OUT) Last year and again this year we stayed at the local RV park at $140.00 AUD per night not cheap and all it is a converted carpark with a shop, pool, and washrooms. You are parked 1 meter (3FT) apart from each other and what appears the norm in the USA air conditioners running all day and night. PFFFFFF
Anyway, little time spend in the RV park we were only interested in the entertainment and atmosphere of Las Vegas. Las Vegas has truly earned the right to call itself “The Entertainment Capital of the World.” Covid was used to update and renovate lots of accommodation houses and hotels. And listening to those in the know the high-end market and middle class have returned and already exceeding pre covid levels.
Vegas is a 24-hour city, which means that when the sun goes down, the party is just getting started. No matter what kind of experience you are looking for, from classy cocktails at high-end lounges to hardcore dance clubs. you will not want to stop until the sun comes up. Even then, you will have only enough time for a quick power nap before heading out to the nearest pool club to start the revelries all over again.
We were told about the iconic Australian electronic dance music group from Sydney, Australia. called RÜFÜS DU SOL! the group is made up of Tyrone Lindqvist, Jon George, and James Hunt. To be honest I had not heard of them but we maybe old school or we been travelling to long. The were performing in XS nightclub in Las Vegas known as one of the best, and most expensive nightclubs in Las Vegas. The venue has a constant rollout of world-renowned DJs, the club is filled with elegant tables and spacious booths, a dance floor and lighting that makes the entire area look like it has been dipped in gold. Ticket prices range depending on the artist, but during the week entrée fees are between $45 and $120 per person AUD. If you’re looking to really go big, table service BOTTLE & TABLE SERVICE is the way to do it. The cheapest tables start at $2300 AUD (minimum spend 4 people) and vary in location. Some are inside, others around the pool deck. The prices steadily go up from there, with cabanas and poolside options coming in at $3500 AUD to $5500 AUD. Tiered sections, dance floor spots, and small stage areas cost between $10000 AUD and 17000 AUD, with the Owner’s Table coming in at a whopping $20000 AUD. Anyway, just out of our budget after we paid $60.00 AUD entrée fee per person, we settled for the standard drinks at around $ 25.00 AUD going up to 40.00 AUD dollars for premium drinks and cocktails all prices are EXCLUDING 13% venue fee, 8.1% tax and 15% auto gratuity which will be automatically added to the final bill. A WAPPING 36% and the place is fully booked most nights. We did not watch the show as that would have added another $220 each per person. Venue opens at 10PM closes between 4 and 5AM
We never tried any of the other well-known nightclubs Hakkasan, Omnia and Zouk, one night was enough. $$$$$$$
When Las Vegas nonessential businesses closed their doors in March 2020 to help curb the spread of Covid, it was the first time the world-famous, neon-lit Strip had shut down since President John F. Kennedy’s funeral in 1963. March 2022 saw 3,334,700 visitors, just a 10 percent dip from pre-pandemic March 2019, according to the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority. The LVCVA also reported that hotel occupancy reached 80.6 percent in March 2022. As of Sept 2023, Leisure travel and international visitor numbers are exceeding pre-pandemic levels and has fully recovered, and the meetings and convention industry is about three-fourths recovered,”
We never tried any of the other well-known nightclubs Hakkasan, Omnia and Zouk, one night was enough. $$$$$$$
When Las Vegas nonessential businesses closed their doors in March 2020 to help curb the spread of Covid, it was the first time the world-famous, neon-lit Strip had shut down since President John F. Kennedy’s funeral in 1963. March 2022 saw 3,334,700 visitors, just a 10 percent dip from pre-pandemic March 2019, according to the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority. The LVCVA also reported that hotel occupancy reached 80.6 percent in March 2022. As of Sept 2023, Leisure travel and international visitor numbers are exceeding pre-pandemic levels and has fully recovered, and the meetings and convention industry is about three-fourths recovered,”
It was time to recover from a few days Las Vegas, and we travelled south towards Bullhead city and Laughlin for 5 Days of recovery along the Colorado river.
Enroute to Laughlin we stopped at the Hoover Dam which we visited for the last time in the 1990’s. Hoover Dam is a huge concrete arch dam in the Black Canyon of the Colorado River, on the border between the U.S. states of Nevada and Arizona.
Constructed between 1931 and 1936. Its construction was the result of a massive effort involving thousands of workers, and cost over 100 lives. Security is strict and typically American.
We had to open every locker to show we had no guns or drones before being allowed to drive over the Dam wall. There are two narrow lanes for automobile traffic across the top of the dam. To a viewpoint from where you need to backtrack. No access allowed to the US 95 from here.
After our visit to Hoover Dam, we stopped at Bullhead City is a city located on the Colorado River in Arizona. and directly across the Colorado River from the town of Laughlin in Nevada where the casinos and ancillary services supply much of the employment for Bullhead City. In the summer months, tourists from all over come for water recreation on Lake Mohave and the Colorado River. Starting in the fall, tourists from colder states flock by the thousands in their motor homes because of the mild winters.
We decided to continue to Laughlin crossing back into Nevada where we stayed at the park next to the Avi Casino with a great lagoon pool and beach at the Colorado river.
Laughlin lies, in the far southern tip of Nevada. As a resort town, known for its gaming and water recreation and located on the Colorado River. Laughlin is the third most visited casino and resort destination in the state after Las Vegas and Reno and is one of the top five destinations for American Motorhome enthusiasts. Laughlin has a hot desert climate with less than 150 mm of rain per year. Summers are extremely hot with days frequently exceeding 43 °C in July and August while over-night lows are around 30 degrees. The winters are mild with days typically seeing temperatures around 24 °C over-night lows 11 °C.
After 5 days R & R at the Avi Resort we are off to part of Route 66 again and work our way to the Grand Canyon.
PART 22 THE GRAND CANYON
Our 5th visit to the Grand Canyon National Park in the last 30 years and it never fails to disappoint. BUT this would have been our first visit to the North Rim, upon arrival we were notified the Nort Rim was closed for another 3 weeks (Winter closure)
Grand Canyon National Park, in Northern Arizona, encompasses 447 km of the Colorado River and adjacent uplands. Located on ancestral homeland of 11 Tribal Communities, Grand Canyon is one of the most spectacular examples of erosion anywhere in the world. I would say closely followed by the Fish River Canyon in Namibia (Africa)
Due to the North Rim being closed we decided to do the Grand Canyon skywalk instead. The Grand Canyon Skywalk offers the chance to see the canyon’s western end from a horseshoe-shaped glass bridge that extends 22 meters over the canyon’s rim. The view looks out over the canyon bottom 1200 meters below. The Hualapai Tribe does not allow private vehicles to drive to the Skywalk. Besides Carparking the cost of walking the glass bridge that extends 22 meters over the canyon’s rim is $110 AUD what made us decide not to go was the fact that the website promotes the fact that the glass bridge as strong enough to support the weight of 70 Boeing 747 jumbo jets at full capacity. But we were not allowed to take our camera, cell phone for safety reasons and to protect the glass. However, we could have our pictures taken by a photographer for an extra $100 AUD.
Grand Canyon West, which is operated by the Hualapai Tribe, this is a separate attraction from Grand Canyon National Park, which is operated by the National Park Service.
The Grand Canyon National Park is part of 11 tribes’ ancestral homelands.
The Grand Canyon is over 430 kilometres long, 30 kilometres wide and up to 1.6 kilometres deep. The Grand Canyon is a 1.7 billion years in the making UNESCO HERITAGE SITE. Native Americans Hopi and Navajo still live in the canyon. On an average busy day in the season up to 50.000 people visit the Grand Canyon National Park. Last year (2023) over 5.7 million people in total visited the National Park.
Grand Canyon National Park is popular and very busy. Being so close to the entrance we entered the park at 7.30-8AM before the masses arrived. The Grand Canyon is amazing and despite 4 previous visits in the last 30 years its powerful landscape is breathtaking with deep valleys, temple like buttes and the panoramic multi coloured cliffs are just scenic wonders. Looking at the canyon from the rim is like looking at a masterpiece. Except this is natural and each layer of rock tells a story. While we were here people spotted Condors. Unfortunately, we did not. But we did see Big Horn Sheep and Elk. The Grand Canyon and the Fish River Canyon in Namibia are 2 places in the world what are national wonders. As someone said: Where the Earth opens in a great display the canyons majesty steals the show.
Grand Canyon National Park is one of the world’s premier natural attractions, there are many viewing points on all sides of the canyon, with the most accessible locations inside the National Park and the Hualapai Indian reservation.
About 90% of tourists visit the South Rim only 10% visit the North Rim with very few amenities. We did travel the North side but were unable to come near the rim due to the seasonal closures. Most tourist visit the south rim and the Grand Canyon village during a one-day road trip or train ride. Most visit the viewpoints on the west side of the village, But the East side is possible even nicer and a lot less crowded. The camp sites are crowded offer little and are expensive. Hence, we camped just outside the park in the bush. No generators, no aircons running all night great secluded spots in the bush.
During our previous visit we were advised of a plan with an IMAX theatre and a gondola to the canyon floor, but we are told this was rejected by the Navajo Nation council.
Fatalities are frequent in the Grand Canyon mainly from falls, heat stroke, dehydration, drownings in the Colorado River, airplane, and helicopter crashes. (242) Hence, we decided against a helicopter flight
After 3 days exploring the Grand. Canyon, we left the Park via the Canyon, trance.
Till next time from Flagstaff where we will be presenting 20 years overland in a vehicle around the world, at the largest 4×4 overland show in the world.
PART 23 GRAND CANYON TO FLAGSTAFF
After 3 great days exploring Grand Canyon National Park, we are now enroute to Flagstaff .
Leaving Grand Canyon National Park on the East side the first stop was the historic Cameron trading post, here the highway crosses the Little Colorado River. We turned South again, and we followed the Colorado Plateau with amazing breathtaking scenery.
Closer to Flagstaff the scenery included the San Francisco Peaks, the highest mountain in Arizona at just under 3900 meters, and just one of over 460 volcanoes located in the area. Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, just north of the is the youngest volcano in this area.
Also worth visiting are prehistoric ruins of the Sinagua people at Wupatki National Monument. The loop road off US Route 89 is where the ruins of prehistoric Indian dwellings are. The Sinagua people occupied this place for about 100 years, shortly after the formation of Sunset Crater. The ash made the land more fertile. By 1180 thousands of people were farming this region. Their multistorey buildings still stand today as a testament to their excellence as stonemasons. Flagstaff is surrounded by a million acres of the massive Coconino National Forest, Flagstaff is a true mountain town, with an accompanying outdoor vibe. Downtown Flagstaff is a fun and charming historic district that is home to many popular Festivals throughout the year.
the Beer and Gear festival.
To kick the show off the day prior the city of Flagstaff organized a GEAR & BEER event and being asked to show case our vehicle was an honour. despite a shooting and the gunman on the run it was a great event with the usual questions how you got the vehicle here, how safe is it to travel around the world, how difficult is it to ship etc. To summarize, Great night, lots of interest, plenty of beer and food.
4×4 Overland EXPO
That night we stayed in the ponderosa pine forest just south of Flagstaff before entering the world’s largest overlander show in the world at Fort Tuthill. The show is amazing and caters for 50000 overland travellers from all around the world. We presented 20 years around the world covering Australia, Africa, Middle East, Central Asia, Southeast Asia, China, Mongolia, Russia, South America, and Central America.
We also participated in 9 round table discussions covering topics such as Corrupt police, army and public servants, Border crossings, insurance, travel in Siberia and Iceland in winter, traveling as a couple and varies specific continents we travelled in Overland.
Having been to many shows around the world Overland Expo is the premier overlanding event no other event offers the number of classes taught by some of the world’s leading overlanders this combined with an amazing tradeshow showing the latest in all camping aftermarket 4×4 gear, Overland Truck & SUV vehicles here you meet overland legends, authors and experts and have the choice of 400 sessions to attend. Plus, slide shows, demonstrations all presented by over 120 presenters from around the world. Catering for over 50000 visitors. AMAZING
Great to meet with some travellers who been following us over the last 20 years. Great to catch up again with everyone again in particular Graham and Louisa Bell, Scott Brady, Bevan, Ward and Annie, Dexter and Vera and many other around the world overlanders we met around the world. It was great to catch up with so many friends from around the world all with one common interest AROUND THE WORLD OVERLAND TRAVEL.
After 4 days of talking, presenting, meetings and long Happy Hours it was time to start exploring again next stop was Sedona in the Northern Verde Valley. Sedona’s is known for the red sandstone formations who glow in brilliant orange and red when lit up by the rising or setting sun.
PART 24 Flagstaff to Mexico Border.
After 4 days of talking, presenting, meetings and long Happy Hours it was time to start exploring again, next stop was Sedona in the Northern Verde Valley.
Sedona is a small desert city surrounded by awe-inspiring scenery. The town is known for the red sandstone formations. Sedona was called America’s most beautiful location (Source: USA today). When arriving the striking red rock formations are amazing. The formations glow in brilliant orange and red when illuminated by the rising or setting sun. Sedona played host to more than sixty Hollywood productions from the first years of movies into the 1970s. Stretching as far back as 1923, Sedona’s red rocks were a fixture in major Hollywood productions.
We camped 15km out of town on top of the mountain so we could witness the sun set and sunrise. And we were woken up by a hot air balloon landing 50 meters away from our motorhome.
Next stop was Prescott, catching up with Scott Brady for a podcast and installing a new awning which need replacement after 13 years of travel.
Prescott has a rich history as a frontier gold and silver mining town. In the mid 1877s Prescott was the capital of Arizona; this was the second time; it was also the capital from 1864 till 1867. In 1889 Phoenix became the capital city and still is today.
The area is known for its authentic cowboy history, and Whiskey Row. Located at 1600 meters the city is surrounded by ponderosa pine forests, giant granite boulders, and lakes. Mining and settlers brought frequent conflict with native American tribes in the area, including the Yavapai and Apache.
Local microbreweries, distilleries, and restaurants serving both comfort and modern cuisines continue to pop up, adding to the already well-known Whiskey Row scene. The spirit of Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday and other legendary cowboy figures still live in the heart of saloons of downtown Prescott. There is no shortage of experiencing the True West, the Wild West in Prescott.
Prescott residents told us that they have the world’s Oldest Rodeo”, running continuously since 1888. The rodeo is one of the most famous in the United States.
We left Phoenix 2 months ago to start Route 66 and today we returned to Phoenix, to catch up with Dave and Megan and to pick up a parcel that will arrive from Europe in the next few days. Phoenix is the most populous city in Arizona. It has as nickname the Valley of the Sun. Phoenix is in the Northeast Part of the Sonoran Desert. The city has long, extremely hot summers and short, mild winters. Phoenix receives just under 4000 hours of sunshine per year. It has on average 115 days over 38 degrees Celsius, between May and September.
Time to say goodbye to Dave and Megan and head towards Mexico via the Sonoran Desert.
The Sonoran Desert is an arid region covering 310,800 square km in the Southwest of Arizona and Southeast of California, it even flows into the northern part of Mexico. Lots of wild camping in the area; just be aware of the coyotes and mountain lions, tarantulas, scorpions, and snakes.
In addition to the Saguaro cactus, the signature plant of the desert, other types include the barrel cactus and organ pipe cactus.
The Colorado Desert is part of the Sonoran Desert that shares with the Yuma Desert Basin. The Yuma Desert is barren, a region of low sandy plains and dunes with only sporadic outcroppings of creosote bush or burr sage. The Yuma desert lies south of the Gila River and East of the Colorado River in the Southwest corner of Arizona. This area is amazing if you like remote bush camping.
According to Guinness World Records, Yuma is the “Sunniest City on Earth,” promising “sunshine and warm weather at least 330 days of the year. Yuma is the driest, the sunniest, and the least humid, has the lowest frequency of precipitation, and has the highest number of sunny days per year, with a daily maximum temperature of 32 °C or higher. Yuma recorded its all-time high temperature of 51 °C, and Yuma receives 85 mm of rain annually.
Anywhere from 70,000 to over 85,000 interstate visitors make Yuma their winter residence. Yuma is also known for its large military population due to several military bases, including the Marine Corps Air Station.
Last city before we enter Mexico is Calexico. This border city is in far southern California. In April 2010 Calexico was hit by a major 7.2 M Earthquake and this caused heavy damage throughout Calexico and across the border in Mexicali.
Till, Next time from viva la Mexico
Returning from Mexico to continue our USA overland trip
ARIZONA
PART 25 MEXICO-USA Border From Algonados to Tucson
We arrived in Algonados at the Mexico/USA border at 5PM and still 48 degrees Celsius it was hot. Leaving Mexico at the Algodonas Border was easy and friendly. Maybe an idea to have those land border security and custom agents to train those at the international airports in customer service. I would think in today’s online world all arrivals by air into the USA are known, unlike land borders where people arrive unannounced without notice. Customs and border security were interested in our travels around the world, and we were also given some great spots around Yuma, just across from the border. Great welcome back into the United States
After the vehicle check it was off to the Walmart in Yuma just 15 minutes away to stock up again
Yuma’s historic downtown offers a wide variety of shopping, dining, and entertainment. Overnight we stayed at the Cracker barrel store carpark, it was noisy and hot overnight with a low 34 degrees Celsius. Shopping and laundry were the other reason we stayed in Yuma. Yuma is situated on the banks of the once unpredictable Colorado River, where floods once ravaged, but today a vibrant nightlife thrives.
Yuma offers striking scenery of mountains, wetlands, desert, and Colorado river. Castle Dome, once a thriving mining town, now rests in eerie silence, its streets devoid of life. Beneath the surface, a labyrinth of over 300 mines lies dormant, their secrets forever hidden. Other points of interest are the majestic sand dunes that proudly claim the title of the country’s largest expanse of inland dunes, stretching across a remarkable 55 kilometres. these dunes have also played a starring role in several movies, including Star Wars and Return of the Jedi. Yuma is also home to the Marine Corps Air Station.
Yuma is noted for its weather extremes. It has the highest number of sunny days per year of which 185 days with a daily maximum temperature of 34 degrees or higher. 121 days of the 185 the temperature exceeds 39 degrees between April and October. Yuma is the driest, the sunniest, and the least humid town in the USA and the lowest rainfall with an average of 80 mm per year. The city receives the most recorded mean sunshine hours of any city on Earth.
During our visit, the temperature hovered around the 48 degrees and a low of 34 degrees at night.
It was time to drive to the USA most dangerous national Park, The Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. This park was closed on the southern Arizona border, because in 2003 and the following 15 years saw a steady flow of illegal immigrants – and drug runners – from Mexico crossing the border entering this park. Park officials believe that increased border security and patrols have made the park safe for visitors to get off the beaten path. However, we were warned not to stop for hitch hikers or while bush camping near the border areas not to entertain anyone walking in from the bush or offering them a ride to the nearest town.