Peru 2018-2019 – Double Dutch World Safari

Republic of Peru

PART 1, General Information
PART 2, BLOGS Pictures and Gallery PART 3, VIDEO Clips Peru

PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION

Capital city: Lima

Population: 32 million

Currency: Nuevo Sol

Km travelled: 6590

Days in Peru: 141

Languages: Spanish and Quechua

GENERAL

Peru is a country located in western South America. It is the fourth most populous nation in the region and the third largest in land area. Throughout the 20th century, Peru experienced significant challenges, including armed territorial disputes, military coups, social unrest, and internal conflicts. Despite these obstacles, the country is now considered an emerging market.

Peru has made notable economic progress in recent decades. Although the poverty rate remains around 19%, it has become one of the most prosperous economies in South America, (2018) boasting an average annual growth rate of 5.9%. Additionally, its industrial sector is among the fastest growing in the world, with an average growth rate of 9.6%.

Key economic activities in Peru include mining, manufacturing, agriculture, and fishing. Geographically, all of Peru’s borders lie in remote and sparsely populated areas, with the exception of the Lake Titicaca region.

TOURIST HIGHLIGHTS

Peru is a country rich in tourist attractions, with the most famous being Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca. However, for those with time to explore, Peru has much more to offer.

Around 75% of the world’s alpacas live in Peru, and the national animal is the vicuña — a relative of the alpaca. The vicuña’s wool is considered the finest in the world and comes in 22 natural colors.

Peru’s national dish is cuy (roasted guinea pig), traditionally served whole — head and feet included.

Think the Sahara or Namibia have the tallest sand dunes? Think again: the world’s highest sand dune is in Peru, rising nearly 1,200 meters from base to summit.

And if you’re impressed by the Grand Canyon or Fish River Canyon, consider this: Peru’s Cotahuasi Canyon is nearly twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.

Peru is also the birthplace of the potato. Today, the country grows more than 3,000 different varieties.

LAKE TITICACA

Lake Titicaca, located in the southeast of Peru at an altitude of 3,827 meters, is the world’s highest navigable lake. This vast body of water is the heart of a high-altitude region where thousands of subsistence farmers make a living by fishing its icy waters, cultivating potatoes in the rocky soil along its shores, and herding llamas and alpacas on windswept plateaus that often leave visitors breathless.

A highlight for every tourist in the region is a visit to the famous floating islands of Uros. The Uros people, often referred to as the “water tribe,” have created a unique lifestyle on islands they build themselves using tortora reeds. These same reeds are also used to construct their homes and traditional boats, which serve as their primary mode of transportation.

Another popular destination is Amantani Island, home to around 4,000 Quechua-speaking residents who also understand Spanish. The island is known for its ancient Inca temples and vibrant textile craftsmanship. Visitors can purchase beautifully handwoven goods at affordable prices at the Artesanía Cooperative. Electricity on the island is limited, typically available from 6 to 11 p.m.

For those with extra time, exploring the surrounding areas and the peninsula north of Puno offers a deeper look into the region’s culture and natural beauty.

CUSCO

Located in southeastern Peru, Cusco was once the flourishing capital of the Inca Empire and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983. Today, it stands as Peru’s top tourist destination, drawing over 2 million visitors annually.

Cusco is known for its rich Incan and colonial heritage, but also for its high prices, especially for tourists. The train ride to Machu Picchu is famously expensive—arguably one of the most costly train journeys in the world. Adventurous travelers might opt instead for the 4-day Inca Trail, a challenging but rewarding hike through Andean landscapes and ancient ruins.

Must-See Sites in Cusco:

Sacsayhuamán: A massive Incan walled complex built around 1100 AD. The craftsmanship and megalithic stones are awe-inspiring.
Templo de la Sagrada Familia: A beautiful colonial-era church adjacent to the main cathedral.
Temple of the Virgins (Acllahuasi): A site associated with Inca priestesses, showcasing elite Incan architecture and ceremonial importance.
Cathedral of Santo Domingo (Cusco Cathedral): A stunning symbol of Spanish conquest, built atop an Incan temple.
Incahuasi: Located at nearly 4,000 meters above sea level, this is the highest of all known Inca sites, offering both history and breathtaking views.

Around the City:

Arco de Santa Clara: A historic arch marking one of the city’s colonial entrances.
Barrio de San Blas: Perhaps the most picturesque neighborhood in Cusco, known for its steep, narrow cobblestone streets, artisan workshops, and colonial houses built atop Incan foundations. ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO CUSCO VIA CENTRAL HIGHLANDS.

For those with more time and a looking for some of the beaten track roads/and scenery this route to Ollantaytambo and the sacred valley from Lima is a must. On the way you will see expert craftsmen who carry on the tradition of ancient Wari pottery. The Central highlands of Peru are crossed by two mountain ranges that divide it into three geographical units: high plains to the south, steep mountains in the centre, a rugged terrain of valleys, deep gorges, high mountains, winding roads and plateaus and tropical rainforest to the north-east. The heart of the Andes is dominated by two great cultures, the Wari and the Chancha and pristine landscapes and waterfalls that are like huge curtains of water covering the mountains until reaching peaceful lagoons, and flora and fauna that never cease to astonish scientists. Villages have deep religious traditions, such as Tarma. A handicraft route where you can see the production of fine weaving and metalwork in gold and silver.

Machu Picchu: The Timeless Wonder of the Andes

There are only two main ways to reach the iconic Machu Picchu:

The Classic Inca Trail – a challenging but unforgettable 4-day trek through the Andes, retracing ancient paths.
The Train to Aguas Calientes – followed by a short bus ride up the steep mountain road, or an optional steep hike for the adventurous.

Nestled high in the Andes Mountains of Peru, the ruins lie within the Machu Picchu Historic Sanctuary, a protected area rich in biodiversity and history. The name Machu Picchu means “Old Peak” or “Old Mountain” in Quechua, the local language.

Recognized as one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, the Citadel of Machu Picchu is Peru’s top tourist destination and one of the most visited archaeological sites globally. Mysterious and majestic, the city was built entirely of stone—without the use of wheels or iron tools—making it a stunning testament to Inca engineering.

More than 600 terraces support the mountainside structures, ingeniously preventing erosion and landslides. An advanced water distribution system, stretching nearly 1 kilometer, provided fresh water throughout the city.

Machu Picchu remains a powerful symbol of the ingenuity, spirituality, and sophistication of the Inca civilization.

NAZCA LINES

The Nazca Lines are a series of massive geoglyphs etched into the Peruvian coastal plain, about 250 miles (400 km) south of Lima. Created by the ancient Nazca culture around 2,000 years ago, they include over 800 straight lines—some as long as 30 miles—more than 300 geometric shapes like triangles, spirals, and zigzags, and various pictorial representations of plants and animals. Due to their scale, the designs are best viewed from the air.

COLCA CANYON

The Colca Canyon, located about 160 km northwest of Arequipa in southern Peru, is one of the world’s deepest canyons at 3,270 meters deep. It attracts around 120,000 visitors annually, making it Peru’s third most-visited tourist destination. The surrounding Colca Valley features vibrant Andean landscapes, pre-Inca terraces, and historic towns where local people preserve ancestral traditions. A key attraction is the ‘Cruz del Condor’ viewpoint, where visitors can observe Andean condors soaring close to the canyon walls. These birds live 60–70 years and have wingspans ranging from 2.1 to 2.7 meters.

LIMA

Lima is the capital and largest city of Peru, located in the valleys of the Chillón, Rímac, and Lurín rivers along the country’s central coast. With a population of over 9 million, it is the third-largest city in South America, following São Paulo and Mexico City.

Must-Do Experiences in Lima:

Explore the Historic Centre: A UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring colonial architecture, churches, and plazas in both the Central District and Rímac.
Stroll through Miraflores: An upscale district known for its parks, clifftop views of the Pacific Ocean, restaurants, and nightlife.
Visit the Larcomar Waterfront Mall: Built into the cliffs, this shopping center offers stunning ocean views, shops, and dining.
Enjoy the City Plazas: Frequent public performances, including traditional Peruvian dances, bring local culture to life.

SACRED VALLEY

The Sacred Valley, also known as the Urubamba Valley, lies just north of Cusco and has become a major tourist destination. If you arrive from the west, it is the first sign of civilization after days spent crossing the untouched mountains and remote villages of Central and Eastern Peru. Alternatively, many travelers come from Cusco, park their vehicles, and board a train to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu.

Some must-see experiences in the Sacred Valley include the lively Saturday markets and impressive ruins at Pisac, as well as the historic town of Ollantaytambo with its remarkable archaeological sites.

HUACACHINA

Known as the “Oasis of America,” Huacachina is one of the few true desert oases in the Americas. This lush island in a vast sea of sand features a striking blue and green lagoon, reminiscent of an oasis in the Sahara Desert. Surrounded by swaying palm trees, the vibrant Peruvian watering hole has long been a favorite destination for locals and travelers alike. It’s the perfect place to unwind, relax, and soak in the unique beauty of the desert landscape.

THE PARACAS NATIONAL RESERVE

The Paracas Peninsula spans 33,500 hectares, making it Peru’s largest continuous protected coastline. Established in 1975, the Paracas National Reserve stretches southward from the peninsula to Independence Bay, showcasing a rugged and arid landscape of striking beauty. The area boasts stunning beaches perfect for off-roading adventures and bush camping.

The reserve is a haven for wildlife, home to around 216 species of resident and migratory seabirds, along with two types of sea lions, the majestic Andean condor, and the unique Humboldt penguin. In some areas, the landscape is literally covered with birds, creating an unforgettable spectacle.

Traveling within the reserve involves navigating bumpy dirt roads, which can take anywhere from 30 minutes to three hours to reach the beaches from the main entrance. Despite the rough terrain, the journey is well worth it for the incredible natural experiences that await.

THE CORDILLERAS

The Cordilleras are split into two main ranges: the Cordillera Blanca, known for its snowy white peaks, and the Cordillera Negra, which lacks snow and appears darker. The most famous mountain here is Huascarán, the tallest in Peru, standing at 6,768 meters. Around Huascarán, there are about 25 peaks over 6,000 meters and 50 more above 5,500 meters, along with more than 700 glaciers.

This region also features the Punta Olímpica Tunnel, the highest road tunnel in the world, sitting just below 4,800 meters altitude. Visitors are drawn to the breathtaking beauty of its lakes, especially Laguna 69, Laguna Parón, and Lake Llanganuco, which offer stunning turquoise waters framed by towering mountain peaks.

CANYON DEL PATO

This is the point where the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra come within just 15 meters of each other. The road here is carved directly into sheer rock faces, with drops plunging nearly 1,000 meters below. Despite the many stories about its danger, trucks up to 3.9 meters tall still manage to pass through. At certain sections, the narrow width of the road felt even more daunting than the height restrictions.

CLIMATE

Peru’s geography naturally leads to a varied climate. Much of the western coastal plain consists of dry deserts, while the Andean highlands range from temperate to frigid.

The jungle regions of the east are tropical and humid, with distinct rainy seasons.
At the Coast, the weather varies, with a damp and cloudy winter that runs from June to September. Average temperatures come in at 14°C. During the summer, temperatures can peak at 28°C or over.
In the Highlands, the sun shines all year round during the morning, but temperatures descend at night, averaging 5°C.

LIMA

Lima’s climate is a mild desert climate with no extreme hot or cold weather. During the winter (June to October), the city is often covered with a dense fog [drizzle-like], June to October are mostly grey and foggy

Summer Temperature between 18 degrees at night and 28 during the day.

Winter temperature between 15 degrees at night and 18 degrees during the day.

Rainfall is very little throughout the year

TACNA

Most of the year the weather is fine very little rain except in November

Summer Temperature between 16 degrees at night and 28 during the day.

Winter temperature between 9 degrees at night and 23 degrees during the day.

Rainfall is very little throughout the year. November is the wettest month with 30mm

HUACACHINA

Summer Temperature between 20 degrees at night and 28 during the day.

Winter temperature between 14 degrees at night and 20 degrees during the day.

Rainfall is very little throughout the year.

CUSCO

During the month of September, October, November and December you are most likely to experience good weather with pleasant average temperatures.

Summer Temperature between 8 degrees at night and 20 during the day.

Winter temperature between 0 degrees at night and 18 degrees during the day.

Rainfall between Oct to March. Dry season April to September.

MACHU PICCHU

During the month of September, October, November and December you are most likely to experience good weather with pleasant average temperatures.

Summer Temperature between 7 degrees at night and 20 during the day.

Winter temperature between 0 degrees at night and 18 degrees during the day.

Rainfall between Nov to March. Dry season May to Oct.

LAKE TITICACA

Summer Temperature between 2 degrees at night and 13 during the day.

Winter temperature between -8 degrees at night and 14 degrees during the day.

Rainfall between Nov to March. Dry season May to Oct.

AREQUIPA

Arequipa has dry periods in March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November and December.

Warmest month is March, wettest month is February and the coldest month is August

Summer Temperature between 8 degrees at night and 24 during the day.

Winter temperature between 5 degrees at night and 20 degrees during the day.

Rainfall between Jan to March.

HUANCAVELICA

This area is cool all year round. The average annual temperature in Huancavelica is 9.0 °C. and around 800mm of rain annually.

Summer Temperature between 2 degrees at night and 17 during the day.

Winter temperature between -2 degrees at night and 15 degrees during the day.

Rainfall between Dec and March.

PART 2, BLOGS PICTURES & GALLERY 2018-2019

After 4 Weeks in Bolivia: A Border Story

After four intense weeks exploring Bolivia, followed by a few days of well-deserved R&R in Copacabana, we finally crossed the border into Peru.

Not our smartest move, as it turned out—we chose a small border crossing right at the start of school holidays. It felt like the entire population of Peru had decided to head to Bolivia. The scene was chaos. Just one poor soul manning the Aduana (customs), drowning in a queue that stretched on forever.

Strangely enough, we were the only ones heading out of Bolivia.

At Immigration, we asked for a six-month stay in Peru, since we wanted to stick around to see the Dakar Rally in January. Much to our surprise (and relief), they granted it.

Next stop: Aduana. We needed a TIP (Temporary Import Permit) for the vehicle—also for six months. Unfortunately, the overwhelmed customs officer, visibly stressed from the crowd, initially said no.

But then—armed with a big smile and a bit of charm—we explained that Immigration had just given us six months, and that we were here to see (and maybe even participate in) the Dakar Rally.

Suddenly, we had his full attention. Turns out, he’s a huge Dakar fan and had followed it ever since it moved to South America. Three minutes later, we were holding a six-month TIP in our hands.

Smiles all around.

Next Stop: Insurance and Data

Due to a public holiday, all shops and offices were closed when we arrived—no chance of sorting insurance or phone data at the border. Surprisingly, despite insurance being mandatory, there were no services available at the crossing. Fortunately, the following day in Puno, we managed to find an insurance broker.

Puno, a city in southeastern Peru on the shores of Lake Titicaca, has a population of around 150,000. Driving our 12,000 kg truck through Puno’s narrow streets in search of the broker was quite the experience. Attempts to get insurance online or through contacts in Lima had all failed, yet in Puno, the process took less than 20 minutes.

The city itself is fascinating—much of its economy revolves around the black market, driven by goods smuggled in from neighboring Bolivia. At one point, we got completely lost and ended up in some of Puno’s less developed neighborhoods. The streets were steep, narrow, and unpaved, forcing us to reverse down dead ends—a real challenge with a vehicle of our size.

We also attempted to visit the Kuntur Wasi viewpoint, but eventually gave up after failing to find it. We weren’t too disappointed, knowing we’d be back next year.

For now, our main destination was Cusco, with plans to return to Peru in December. We’re aware that by then, it will be rainy season in both Cusco and Machu Picchu, so we’ll plan accordingly.

The name Peru comes from an Indigenous word meaning “land of abundance.” And in Cusco, abundance is exactly what you get—tourists in abundance, people trying to rip you off in abundance, restaurants in abundance, touts in abundance, tour agencies in abundance, backpackers in abundance—the list goes on. At times, it felt more like walking through Disneyland than exploring a historic Andean city.

That said, Cusco is still a must-visit town—though perhaps not one to linger in too long. Fortunately, we had a campsite just outside the city, away from the relentless hustle and bustle.

The main reason most people come here is simple: Cusco is the gateway to the famous Machu Picchu. At 3,400 meters above sea level, many tourists arrive gasping for air. But for us, having spent the last five weeks hovering around the 4,000-meter mark, the altitude felt almost comfortable.

The very steep, cobbled streets of Cusco were the perfect post-lunch workout. Once the capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco sits at the heart of a civilization that stretched from Chile and Argentina in the south to Colombia and the Amazon in the north. The Incas were renowned not only as master stonemasons but also for their skill in urban planning. For us, two days of walking around Cusco was just the right amount.

We did, however, find the perfect spot for lunch — Jack’s Café. Our campsite, Quinta Lala, was an ideal place to unwind for a few days and connect with fellow overlanders. In fact, it was the busiest overlander camp we’ve seen since Jungle Junction in Nairobi, Kenya, back in 2016.

With some rest under our belts, it was finally time to book our tour to Machu Picchu. (What a nightmare.)

We trusted a guy — and got completely shafted. We should have known better, especially after 14 years of traveling the world.
But hey, more on that in the next update.

Machu Picchu & Aguas Calientes

After spending four days in Cusco, it was finally time to make our way to Machu Picchu and the nearby town of Aguas Calientes. Machu Picchu, the world-famous ancient Incan city, sits high above the Urubamba River, nestled in the breathtaking Andes Mountains. Visiting this wonder has been a lifelong dream—ever since I was stationed as a Marine on the Caribbean island of Curaçao in 1974 for a one-year tour.

Machu Picchu sits at an altitude of 2,500 meters, nestled in a stunning setting amid a semi-tropical mountain forest. Despite the various issues we encountered with our tour agency (see below for details), we were incredibly fortunate to have the best guide we could have hoped for. Not only was he full of fascinating information, but he also skillfully navigated the site in a way that helped us avoid the massive crowds—Machu Picchu felt a bit like Las Vegas on steroids! Officially only 2500 people can visit Machu Picchu per day but up to 10000 visited this site when we were there!!! It appears lack of control and corruption allows this to happen. We even noticed a hotel at the entrance to Machu Picchu (Belmont Hotel) and our guide told us with a smile, the only 3-star hotel in the world which charges 1500 USD per night.

The site of Machu Picchu was brought to international attention by Hiram Bingham in 1911. It was built and occupied by the Inca civilization, likely between the mid-15th and early 16th centuries—around 1450 to 1540—before being mysteriously abandoned. The exact reason for its abandonment remains unknown, though one possible explanation is a lack of reliable water supply.

Around the site are many stepped terraces used for growing vegetables, irrigated by an intricate aqueduct system. Thousands of stone steps and walkways connect various parts of the village with the main plaza. According to our guide, most experts agree that Machu Picchu was originally built as a llacta—a settlement established to manage and support the surrounding local economies.

Machu Picchu was a royal estate of Pachacuti, the great Inca who expanded his huge empire.

You can hike the Inca Trail in 4 to 6 days, covering thousands of ancient stone steps, tunnels, walls, and other obstacles while walking at altitudes between 2,500 and 4,200 meters, before finally reaching Machu Picchu. If you’d like to save the $24 for the 20-minute bus ride from Aguas Calientes to the entrance, you can opt for the very steep uphill hike—but I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re extremely fit.

There are plenty of ways to reach Machu Picchu: from classic 4- or 7-day treks to various combinations of hiking, bus, and train travel. The most convenient option is to take the train from Poroy to Aguas Calientes.

Our choice is the train with an overnight stop in Aguas Callientes. We were prepared for the many tourists and it should be said that crowds detract from the magic of the experience. I wonder how long it takes before UNESCO stops this overselling of tickets and lack of crowd control? I did ask the guide if they ever considered a cable car system like in La Paz as this would stop damage done by tourists. He told us it has been discussed, the money is available, but the Greenies put a stop to it! AMAZING. Story re the crooked travel agencies is still developing awaiting answers.

OFFICIAL RESPONSE

Overtourism and UNESCO Concerns: Over crowding at Machu Picchu has been a major concern for years. UNESCO has, in fact, warned Peru multiple times that the site could lose its World Heritage status if conservation and visitor management aren’t improved. While entry limits do exist, enforcement is patchy, and ticket overselling or lax timing controls (especially with guided groups) contribute to congestion.
Cable Car Idea: The notion of a cable car has come up several times, especially as an alternative to the current bus and hiking systems, which strain both the trails and the local environment. Critics, often conservationists (“the Greenies” as your guide phrased it), argue that any new infrastructure could accelerate ecological damage and increase foot traffic even further — a classic catch-22. Proponents argue it could reduce erosion and improve safety and accessibility.
Corruption and Travel Agencies: Sadly, the issues with questionable travel agencies, fake tickets, or unreliable tour operators are real and widespread. There have been investigations into corruption in the distribution of Machu Picchu permits, particularly around the Inca Trail. If you’re waiting on a story or outcome regarding this, it might be tied into that wider issue.

Cusco to Lima

Time is running short, as we need to be back in Australia in a few weeks for my next eye operation. Not wanting to rush through the Sacred Valley, we’ve decided to return in December 2018 or January 2019, after the Dakar Rally, to explore the area in more depth. Machu Picchu is an absolute must-see, but Cusco doesn’t feel like the real Peru. With over two million visitors annually, it has become a tourist trap filled with locals trying to take advantage of travelers. Although Cusco was designated a World Heritage site in 1983, it’s not a city we truly enjoyed exploring.

Leaving Cusco, the historic capital of the Inca Empire, we followed the valley towards Abancay, descending from 3,800 meters—the altitude of our campsite near Cusco*—down to 2,400 meters. This marked our first time below 3,000 meters in six weeks. (*The town of Cusco itself sits at about 3,400 meters.) Along the way, we bush camped in the valley, enjoying stunning views under clear skies.

Our next stop was the town of Nazca, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like Cusco, Nazca is a bustling hub nestled in the middle of a desert, filled with tourists eager to see the famous geoglyphs—better known as the Nazca Lines. These enormous ancient drawings range from simple straight lines to intricate figures depicting birds, llamas, flowers, and trees, some measuring up to 370 meters long.

We were told that the best way to see the Nazca Lines was from the air, although I’d be hesitant to trust the small planes used for tours! However, this isn’t entirely true—they can also be viewed from the nearby hills and from a lookout right along the Panamericana Highway, offering a safer and still impressive perspective on these mysterious designs.

They looked very disappointing, but perhaps this was because everyone we spoke to had a different story about the mystery. From Nazca, we followed the Panamericana Norte, bypassing Ica and Paracas—also known as the land of valleys and sun. We then arrived in Pisco, famous for its fine wine, Peruvian Afro music, and the national drink called Pisco. We also bypassed Huacachina, the oasis of South America, often described as a lush island in a sea of sand. (Part of our 2019 trip)

As the saying goes, “When in Rome…” — so when in Pisco, drink Pisco! The classic Pisco Sour, with its clear, transparent color and 44% alcohol content, is a must. It carries a strong flavor with a subtly fragrant aroma that is never perfumed. Each type of Pisco offers its own unique taste, and the even stronger variety, Pisco Acholado, stands out for its bold character.

Our final stop on this trip was Lima, the capital of Peru and the country’s commercial and industrial hub. Approximately 25% of Peru’s population resides in Lima. The city is congested, noisy, and dirty, with some areas appearing quite bleak. It seems that many migrants from Venezuela are moving into Lima. Upon entering the city, we encountered numerous roadworks, demolition, and reconstruction sites. Unfortunately, detour signs and directions were scarce and hard to follow. The traffic from downtown Lima to Chaclacayo was heavily congested and chaotic, a sharp contrast to Miraflores, one of the wealthiest and most orderly districts in the city.

A simple glance at those leisurely strolling through Kennedy Park in Miraflores compared to the people begging in central Lima reveals the vast divide between wealth and poverty. For the majority of Lima’s residents, essentials like running water, sewage systems, affordable food, and stable employment remain distant dreams. Yet despite these hardships, Lima pulses with life after dark—its theaters, clubs, and vibrant peñas showcasing folk music draw locals who cherish their rich cultural heritage.

Provincial and district clubs and associations celebrate every week with songs, dances, and foods unique to their distinctive regions. Much of Peru’s rich folklore can even be experienced right in the heart of Lima. We owe a huge thanks to Hans and Elizabeth for showing us around the city—without them, we would have missed many of Lima’s highlights.

Soon it was time to catch our flight home and start planning our next South American adventure, set to begin in November 2018. Flying over the Andes and looking down, it was incredible to reflect on having explored this area by truck. Later, arriving in Cairns, Australia, and flying along the coast reaffirmed just how lucky we are to live in paradise.

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of being home again, walking through the door of our own house after such an unforgettable journey.

Lima via the remote Eastern highlands to the Bolivia border.

After spending 13 weeks at home, we’re finally back on the road. Our journey from Cairns to Lima took just over 27 hours, including a 7-hour stopover in Santiago. Lima, Peru’s bustling capital, offers a vibrant nightlife and rich cultural scene. More importantly, it serves as the main gateway into Peru—only a few travelers enter the country by road, as we did earlier this year.

Once we picked up our truck again at Carlos 4X4 in Chaclacayo, we set off to explore Peru’s inland and highland regions. After stocking up on supplies, we followed the Carretera Central East and made our first major climb over the Ticlio mountain pass, located about 130 kilometers east of Lima. At 4,818 meters, this pass is a challenging ascent. Nearby, you’ll also find the world’s second-highest railway line, reaching an elevation of 4,719 meters.

The weather shifted dramatically as we descended the mountain—sunshine turned to rain, rain to sleet, and sleet into snow. With zero visibility and icy, slippery roads, driving became a true test of skill. Once we reached the Mantaro Valley, the skies cleared. The Mantaro River, known as the most distant source of the Amazon, guided us south of Huancayo, where we veered onto the narrow, treacherous track to La Esmeralda.

The road was perilous: overhanging rocks threatened from above, parts of the road had crumbled away, and in many places sheer drops of hundreds of meters loomed unprotected by any guardrails. Hairpin bends twisted through the mountainside, demanding every ounce of attention. As rain began to fall again, the track grew slick and hazardous.

Soon, we encountered a minor landslide, just passable, but little did we know a major landslide lay only a few kilometers ahead, blocking the road entirely. Seven hours later, we were allowed to proceed—but at our own risk. This meant driving five hours in darkness along the narrow, one-lane mountain road, bordered by deep ravines and slippery surfaces. We even had to reverse at points to let oncoming vehicles pass.

The journey was breathtaking in every sense—the danger, the views, the raw power of nature. Now, I truly understand why this road has earned such a fearsome reputation.

The journey remains an adrenaline-fueled challenge—not for the faint of lungs, heart, or legs. I’ve attached one of our own clips from just before the landslide. Since we covered about half of this road in semi-darkness and complete darkness, I’ve also included a YouTube video from another traveler to give you a clearer sense of the rugged terrain we faced.

You might wonder why we chose to drive at night. The answer is simple: the road might have been closed indefinitely until it became stable again. We didn’t have the luxury of waiting—we had to keep moving.

We conquered this incredible journey with our 12,000 kg, 2.5-meter-wide 4×4 truck, despite numerous detours along the way. The road through the canyon was truly extreme — words can hardly capture its intensity, and photos don’t do it justice. With this, we checked off another one of the world’s most challenging roads from our list.

From there, we continued along the route passing through Kiten and Santa Rosa to Ollantaytambo. This stretch was equally thrilling — a narrow, unsecured driveway with countless twists and turns that kept us on edge. Thankfully, from Santa Maria onward, the road was in excellent condition, allowing us to relax and enjoy the journey.

Once in Ollantaytambo, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant markets of Chinchero and Pisac and savored the stunning drive through the Sacred Valley. Finally, we arrived in Cusco for some well-deserved rest and relaxation at Quinta Lala.

If you’re interested, you can skip the intro and start watching around 50 seconds in, where the daytime part of our trip begins.

https://youtu.be/M7aGjyBbEqg

One of the most fascinating aspects of traveling through this remote part of Peru is witnessing agricultural practices that have remained unchanged since the time of the Incas—many of them in use for over 2,000 years. Medicine men still rely on Mother Earth as their guide, and we were captivated by the colorful traditional costumes worn by local women. We were amazed to learn that Peru is home to over 3,000 different varieties of potatoes! After a few days of rest in Cusco, we continued on to our next destination: Lake Titicaca and the Floating Islands. At just over 4,000 meters above sea level, Lake Titicaca holds the title of the world’s highest navigable lake.

We bush camped on the Capachica Peninsula, northeast of Puno, at Playa Chifrón. Lake Titicaca is home to over 50 floating islands made from totora reeds, collectively known as the Uros Islands. While the closer islands are quite touristy, the more distant ones offer a glimpse into a way of life that has remained unchanged for centuries. The local people wear vibrant, colourful clothing and use the reeds to build homes, craft goods, and weave textiles. While the women tend to weaving and daily life on the islands, the men go out fishing to support their families.

CHILE BORDER TO LIMA & DAKAR 100% PERU, 2019

After Christmas celebrations with great company in Arica (Chile), we crossed back into Peru to explore the country’s southwest.

Clearing customs and immigration was surprisingly smooth — the whole process took less than an hour. Our first stop was Tacna, just 60 km north of the Chilean border.However, the town didn’t really capture our interest, so we continued our journey north toward Arequipa.

Arequipa is often referred to as La Ciudad Blanca (the White City), known for its striking colonial architecture built from white volcanic stone. Unfortunately, as we bypassed the city centre, we didn’t catch sight of any of the old colonial buildings that give Arequipa its charm.

Arequipa is the second-largest city in Peru, with a population of just over one million. Located at an altitude of 2,400 meters and surrounded by more than 80 volcanoes—some of them active—Arequipa lies in an earthquake-prone region.

Instead of staying in the city, we moved on to Yura and camped near the local hot springs. After a relaxing day soaking in the warm waters, we continued our journey.

The drive to Chivay was nothing short of spectacular. Along the way, we reached the breathtaking Patopampa Pass at 4,940 meters, a magic viewpoint offering panoramic views of the towering El Misti (5,822 meters) and Chachani (6,075 meters) volcanoes. From the pass, the road descends about 1,300 meters before arriving in Chivay, a small village nestled at the entrance of the Colca Canyon, at around 3,650 meters above sea level.

Chivay has a charming central square and a bustling local market where we did a bit of shopping. We then found a campsite nearby and enjoyed another soak—this time at the Calera Hot Springs just outside of town.

Next on our itinerary was the Colca Canyon, the third most visited tourist destination in Peru, attracting nearly 200,000 visitors each year.

We arrived in the mid-afternoon, after the tour buses had already left. The canyon—one of the deepest in the world—is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and is second only to the Cotahuasi Canyon in Peru. We camped at Cruz del Condor, a popular viewpoint where Andean condors can be seen on most days throughout the year. We were very lucky to spot a few condors shortly after our arrival, with no one else around. The next morning, however, about 15 tour buses pulled in, and market stalls quickly appeared, selling souvenirs to the crowds.

Instead of following the tourist route back to Chivay or Arequipa, we chose to take the track toward Huambo on Route 109, leading to the Panamericana Sur. This path winds through an area of astounding natural beauty, featuring immense Andean terraces, unique landscapes, and abundant wildlife. Along the way, we encountered herds of vicuñas—wild relatives of llamas and alpacas—and a variety of bird species, including the giant hummingbird, eagles, geese, and the majestic Andean condor.

We were pushed for time as our Dakar friends were already waiting in Huacachina. So, we travelled further north via the San Fernando National Reserve, bypassing Juan de Marcona — which we planned to visit later as part of the Dakar route.

Along the way, we camped near Cerro Blanco, the world’s highest sand dune

when measured from base to summit. Rising more than 2,000 meters above sea level, the dune itself towers 1,180 meters from its base. Buggies can’t make the climb, so reaching the top is said to be a hike of several hours (definitely not for us). But the descent is a whole different story — with skis and clear runs, it takes only minutes to come down.

I was surprised to learn that only one of the world’s ten highest dunes is in Australia — and only one is in the Sahara Desert!

1. Cerro Blanco 1180 meters from base to top

2. Cerro Medanoso, in Chile (550 meters)

3. Badain Jaran in China 500 meters,

4. Rig-e Yalan in Iran 470 meters,

5. Isaouane-n-Tifernine in Algeria, 460 meters,

6. and 7 are Big daddy and Dune 7 in Namibia 325 meters,

8. is mount tempest in Australia 280 meters.

It was time to visit our Dakar friends in Huacachina. a small lagoon surrounded by palm trees and gigantic sand dunes, this desert oasis Huacachina is home to a great Training ground for the Dakar and the dune buggy capital of Peru. These ancient mountains of sand are beautiful, surreal and jaw-dropping, allowing you deep into the desert to see the huge sand dunes all the way to the coast. After the Dakar we continued North to Paracas National park. the Park contains various archaeological sites from the Paracas pre-Inca culture, which existed in large part of what is now the reserve. FOR DAKAR 100% Pictures and 2 video clips

CLICK https://www.doubledutchworldsafari.au/dakar-2019/

Time to Return to Lima

It’s time for us to return to Lima, reconnect with the rhythm of the city, and catch up with our dear friends Hans and Elizabeth. We’ll be storing the truck, sharing a few well-earned drinks with Carlos and his family, and beginning preparations for our journey home in a few weeks. There’s still more to wrap up, but the finish line is in sight.

For us this was the end of our exploring of Southern and Central Peru.

Till next time when we explore Northern Peru

LIMA TO ECUADOR BORDER 2019

After spending six months at home — the longest we’ve stayed put since 2004 — we’re finally back on the road again. It feels great to return to the rhythm of travel after such a long pause.

After an overnight in Sydney and 3 days in Santiago we arrived in Lima.

Once the customs agents cleared the truck to leave our storage facility, our first destination was the Cordilleras northeast of Lima.

The Cordillera is a part of the majestic Andes Mountains and marks our final stage in Peru before crossing into Ecuador. This region is renowned for its key features: the Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán National Park, and the Cañón del Pato. Notably, it is home to the world’s highest road tunnel, located just below 4,800 meters in elevation.

The Cordillera Blanca stands out as the highest and most glaciated tropical mountain range on Earth, crowned by Huascarán Mountain, which rises to 6,768 meters — the tallest peak in Peru. This awe-inspiring landscape offers a remarkable blend of rugged beauty and natural wonders, making it an unforgettable part of the journey.

In this region, you’ll find 25 mountain peaks soaring above 6,000 meters, and 50 more reaching over 5,500 meters. Among these towering summits is Artesonraju, famously known as the Paramount Picture peak due to its striking resemblance to the logo of Paramount Pictures.

The Cordillera Blanca, or “White Mountain” range, is home to 722 glaciers that cover an impressive 723 square kilometers. However, locals have noticed a worrying trend: since the 1970s, these glaciers have been steadily shrinking, reflecting the growing impact of climate change on this breathtaking landscape.

Our first stop was meant to be Huaraz, often called the “Switzerland of the South.” But to be honest, it was quite a letdown. Instead, the nearby towns of Carhuaraz, Yungay, and Caraz stole the spotlight with their charm and authentic vibes.

If you find yourself exploring this region, these are the must-do experiences you shouldn’t miss:

The world’s highest road tunnel, the Tunel Punta Olimpica, sits at an impressive altitude of 4,732 meters. Before the tunnel was completed, reaching the town of Chacas meant enduring a grueling 12-hour journey along a rough mountain road frequently threatened by landslides, snow, and avalanches.

Today, thanks to the tunnel and newly paved asphalt roads, travel is faster, safer, and much more convenient. The tunnel itself is approximately 1,400 meters long, 7 meters wide, and 6.5 meters high. The road remains open year-round, except during periods of heavy snowfall when it may close for a day or two.

Lake Llanganuco Starting from Yungay, the road climbs to about 3,900 meters, leading to the breathtaking turquoise waters of Lake Llanganuco. Surrounded by towering snowy peaks—including a stunning view of Huascarán, Peru’s highest mountain—the area offers incredible scenery. It’s a fantastic spot for bush camping, though the nights can get quite cold, so be sure to come prepared for chilly weather.

Laguna Parón is nestled among snow-covered peaks and is the largest lake in the national park. The trek begins in the town of Caraz and leads up to a viewpoint right at the edge of the lake, offering spectacular views. Visitors can camp overnight in the nearby carpark to fully experience the serene surroundings. The most prominent mountain visible from Laguna Parón is Artesonraju, which soars to an impressive height of 6,025 meters.

A must-see destination is the old town of Yungay. On May 31, 1970, a powerful magnitude 8.0 earthquake struck off the coast of Peru. The quake destabilized a glacier on the north face of Mount Huascarán, triggering a massive landslide. About 10 million cubic meters of rock, ice, and snow broke loose and hurtled down the mountain at speeds exceeding 193 kilometers per hour.

Within just three minutes, this devastating avalanche transformed into a colossal wave nearly 914 meters (3,000 feet) wide by the time it reached the valley. It is estimated that the wave consisted of approximately 80 million cubic meters of ice, mud, and rocks, leaving a lasting impact on the region.

Within moments, what was Yungay and its 25,000 inhabitants were buried and crushed by the landslide. Out of the approximate 25000 inhabitants only 350 survived of which were 300 children, who had been taken to the circus at the local stadium, set on higher ground and on the outskirts of the town.

We left the Cordilleras via the amazing and at times very narrow Canyon del Pato. This track was just wide enough for our truck and the tunnels just high enough. It is in this Canyon that the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra come within 15 meters of each other.

From the town of Huallanca the road improves. (gets wider) From here on the road descends west towards the coast and the cities of Chimbote and Trujillo.